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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

CALLING NUMBER DUMMY, HELP PLEASE

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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 05:51 AM
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Question CALLING NUMBER DUMMY, HELP PLEASE

Good morning ND. I was looking up torque specs and I came a cross a pretty big discrepancy regarding head bolt torques. One site: Torkspec gave 140 ft. lbs. while Boxwrench gave 90 ft. lbs.

This is for my 66' 428 Q.

What do you say?

What kind of sealer should I use for the bolts that enter the water jacket?

Thanks, Todd.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 08:49 AM
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I'd say something in the 90-110# range with oil on the threads.

I've never used any sealer on an FE head bolt. Ever.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 09:53 AM
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The book shows oiled threads 80-lbs.& dry 90-lbs Intake 32-35 ,Exh 12-lbs18-lbs
rockers 40-45lbs, Rods 40-45 for the car 428

The lower TQ numbers means oiled with the higher TQ numbers is dry threads.

Gees I think you should buy a manual to answer all your little question's that shows a lot of good info plus a better understanding with some pictures.
And if you make a mistake doing something you only have yourself to blame
Orich
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
Good morning ND. I was looking up torque specs and I came a cross a pretty big discrepancy regarding head bolt torques. One site: Torkspec gave 140 ft. lbs. while Boxwrench gave 90 ft. lbs.

This is for my 66' 428 Q.

What do you say?

What kind of sealer should I use for the bolts that enter the water jacket?

Thanks, Todd.
no head bolts go into the cooling system.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 10:17 AM
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On various engines some of the water pump bolts go in to the water jacket. On these I use a little Black silicone gasket sealer. This will seal them now for you and the next guy who has to remove them will thank you for using the black stuff.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 03:21 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
On various engines some of the water pump bolts go in to the water jacket. On these I use a little Black silicone gasket sealer. This will seal them now for you and the next guy who has to remove them will thank you for using the black stuff.
Thanks Orich, Jeffafa. I try to look up as much as I can. That's where my questions come from. I try not to just go to the well, but when I see discrepancies like this one I like to get feed back from yoos guys. Dig?

If there is a concensus I roll with that.
 
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Old Aug 4, 2016 | 03:31 PM
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If you don't have a Ford Truck Shop Manual for your year model truck, you need one. It will give you all the torque specifications.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 09:29 AM
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i have been doing my Torquing in steps , haven't had any issue in since .
i start out say for heads 40lbs , 60lbs, 80lbs then what ever is left .
i do intakes , heads , everything this way .
 
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Old Aug 5, 2016 | 10:56 AM
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You will find that not one printed books that covers these many years of trucks all have other information that one manual does not.

I have a few older Motors manual 50's,60's into mid 70's.& 80's & the 31st. of the Truck Manual.
Also Haynes, Chilton's manuals. Plus a few Holley carb books, A few Ford shop manuals coving the bumps the. An a Domestic Transmission manual.

I'm sure a good number of guys on here have as many if not more.
I've gotten many at the swap meets/flea markets and paid top dollar for from a printer. or book store.

So sometimes it's hard to believe many guys wing it like from the shade tree days of snapping head bolts and so on.

A guy who's wrenched a good number of yrs learns feel by using the correct wrenches when tightening nuts & bolts to get them very close to the correct torque rate.

This is why it's important to buy and use the correct tools having 3-4 sets of socket tools helps not to break bolts 3/16 to2" bolts
Orich
 
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Old Aug 6, 2016 | 01:26 AM
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ASHAMED

Originally Posted by orich
You will find that not one printed books that covers these many years of trucks all have other information that one manual does not.

I have a few older Motors manual 50's,60's into mid 70's.& 80's & the 31st. of the Truck Manual.
Also Haynes, Chilton's manuals. Plus a few Holley carb books, A few Ford shop manuals coving the bumps the. An a Domestic Transmission manual.

I'm sure a good number of guys on here have as many if not more.
I've gotten many at the swap meets/flea markets and paid top dollar for from a printer. or book store.

So sometimes it's hard to believe many guys wing it like from the shade tree days of snapping head bolts and so on.

A guy who's wrenched a good number of yrs learns feel by using the correct wrenches when tightening nuts & bolts to get them very close to the correct torque rate.

This is why it's important to buy and use the correct tools having 3-4 sets of socket tools helps not to break bolts 3/16 to2" bolts
Orich
I'm ashamed. I don't have a single manual. I had a couple for my 65'. A Chilton's and a Ford manual for my NP435 but I gave those away when my 65 went to the bone yard.

I figured I could find the information using this crazy thing in my lap.

Why would there be such a difference as what I found?
 
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Old Aug 6, 2016 | 03:00 AM
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May be a typo, even. That's why it's best to use a Ford Shop manual. Primary source documents. Less chance of that happening, though it has. It takes experience too, if you see a small bolt and the torque is 150 ft lbs listed instead of inch pounds, you can tell right away it will snap. I've also seen people use a torque wrench, who are not clear at all on the concept. It's sad. Those old Motors manuals are great for learning about the obsolete tech.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2016 | 05:37 AM
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Also worth mentioning is using any extensions changes the actual torque applied. I have little give away pocket size books from Fel-pro that have the formula. I can't rightly remember on the FE but most intakes don't have room to get on the center bolts with a torque wrench. I've been doing them for decades with a fairly long 9/16 wrench. An acquired feel for the right torque and resisting the urge to over-tighten is crucial.
 
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