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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Brakes again

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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 07:36 AM
  #1  
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Joey Fletcher
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Brakes again

I spent most all day trying to bleed the brakes on this thing. I used a vacuum pump bleeder system to start with......It seemed to slow plus having to fight to keep the tubing on tight so I could tell about air bubbles. But I did bleed all 5 locations .


wound up with a half brake petal that would slowly go to the floor.


Next came the Qt. bottle and a single line and pushing the brake petal myself, did all 5 again ....now got 3/4 petal that slowly sinks to the floor


I can give the brake petal a few short quick pumps and get all most a full petal that still slowly goes to the floor.




The truck is in time out.....today so my body can recover just a little.
I don't think there is a place on me that does not hurt right now.




What is next guys................I vote Role back .
 
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 07:43 AM
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Try gravity bleeding with a tapping of a hammer on the caliper to work air bubbles out. Let it sit for awhile then do it again.
 
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 08:20 AM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ake-valve.html


test your RABS valve
 
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 09:15 AM
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Bird


Never done the gravity bleed, is there any thing special about it


How much do you open the bleed screw, do you try to catch the fluid. do you put any type of hose on the bleed screw.
How long to do you leave it open and do you bleed everything the same way
RR
LR
Valve
RF
LF


Everything I have is sore.....elbows, knees, hips, shoulders, and back bone . Been a long time since I have had to crawl around on my knees and elbows on the ground
 
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Old Aug 2, 2016 | 05:12 PM
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I've never bleed the rabs or whatever you call it but I follow the rest of your order listed. I crack open the bleed screw and let it drip watching the flow. You will see a bubble once in awhile and I tap the caliper while I watch. I only do this for ten-fifteen seconds and move onto the next one. I don't catch the fluid or put a hose on it. I'll walk away for an hour or so then go back and without opening up the bleed screw tap the caliper to loosen up the bubbles. Repeat a few times, its a long slow process but I have had good luck with getting a good strong pedal this way when 'normal' bleeding doesn't work. I've been told many times on this forum I'm full of it but when it works, it works !
 
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 09:21 AM
  #6  
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Thanks Bird I will try it today.


As for the RABS.......Who in the HELLo would put a contraption in a place like that.


I can bare get a flash light to see the dang thing much less try to put spacers in where the spring goes..


Dirty is not the word for what it looks like now and a rebuilt one cost $175 with out the core charge added to it.


Right now I have a full petal and nice and hard. but when I start the truck the petal is soft and slowly sinks to the floor.


Another day ....Another problem
 
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 09:26 AM
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From: Bahstun
Originally Posted by Joey Fletcher
As for the RABS.......Who in the HELLo would put a contraption in a place like that.



engineer that does not do his own repairs maybe
 
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Joey Fletcher


Right now I have a full petal and nice and hard. but when I start the truck the petal is soft and slowly sinks to the floor.

That's with a new brake booster?
 
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Old Aug 3, 2016 | 10:05 AM
  #9  
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Joey Fletcher
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From: Durham NC
Yes Bird


That is with the new master cylinder and booster...I have had that in for 3 or 4 days now
When I took out the new booster and was trying to put it back after putting a gasket sealer between the fire wall and the booster. I spent 5+ hrs trying to get the booster back in. Then thought about connecting the old master cylinder back to the booster.
10 min. later I had the booster back in place. How stupid can I get.......LOL


It will take me 2 days just to clean that area....then figure out how the dang thing comes out
 
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