84 F150 braking problem
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84 F150 braking problem
Well, the truck starts up fine now. The new thing going wrong is the brakes. Every once in a while, when I'm braking slow, the pedal will drop to the floor. Giving a pump or two will bring the pressure back up. This always happens when I'm going unde 30mph.
The master cylinder was replaced about 4 years ago. I attempted to bleed the brakes, but could only do the back. I did find air in the back lines. The bleed valves on the front were so rusted, I could tell they would break off if I tried to open the valve. How can I bleed the front brakes?
This truck spent 15 years of its life on the East Coast. Everything underneath is rusted. It's a joy to work on.
The master cylinder was replaced about 4 years ago. I attempted to bleed the brakes, but could only do the back. I did find air in the back lines. The bleed valves on the front were so rusted, I could tell they would break off if I tried to open the valve. How can I bleed the front brakes?
This truck spent 15 years of its life on the East Coast. Everything underneath is rusted. It's a joy to work on.
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 179
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From: Central Virginia
In my opinion, brakes are just to important to not keep in good repair. I would strongly recommend that you install a new set of loaded front calipers. Loaded calipers come with the brake pads pre-installed.
Whether you buy them loaded or not, the front calipers should be replaced then the entire system should be bled.
Whether you buy them loaded or not, the front calipers should be replaced then the entire system should be bled.
Junior User
Joined: Jan 2001
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Soak the front blead screws with penetrating oil for a day or two before hand. Then try again. If you break them or cant break them loose you probably need to replace as the brakes will never work right unless bled properly.
Senior User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 354
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From: Memphis, TN USA
Never never use a regular wrench to either loosen/tighten the bleeder valve to bleed the brake fluid.
Always use a brake wrench and most autoparts store sells them as a set.
Follow what they have suggested about using penetrating oil and then use the right brake wrench so you have all the grip to loosen the bleeder valve and if you remove it fine then replace it with another one.
Brake fluid is suppose to be replaced every two years as the brake fluid high boiling temperature goes down with the moisture and it builds up rusts. 1 large bottle of brake fluid is sufficient to replace the old brake fluid and bleed. I use a one-man bleeder kit (a plastic bottle with a clear hose and adapter for the bleeder valve).
Always use a brake wrench and most autoparts store sells them as a set.
Follow what they have suggested about using penetrating oil and then use the right brake wrench so you have all the grip to loosen the bleeder valve and if you remove it fine then replace it with another one.
Brake fluid is suppose to be replaced every two years as the brake fluid high boiling temperature goes down with the moisture and it builds up rusts. 1 large bottle of brake fluid is sufficient to replace the old brake fluid and bleed. I use a one-man bleeder kit (a plastic bottle with a clear hose and adapter for the bleeder valve).
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,739
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From: GANS
Sounds like the Master cylinder could be going bad again. Last time I mess with replacing a few simple lines on my beater, I ended up replacing everything. Everything seemed to break when I touched it, the rebuilt MC was bad, the vacuum booster was bad, the hoses were shot.
My advise to you is, if you have the money, buy a booster/MC combo ($100), 2 calipers ($50), 3 hoses ($40), brake line (probably $25), and pads / shoes (and drums / rotors if you need them, my worked fine).
Also, when replacing the lines from the MC to valve below, get two 30" lines. The originals are like 34", and everyone told me "Go longer" and get the 40" lines. Well, they are TOO freakin' long (unless you have a body lift), and 30" lines fit nice. Another thing is, when you by your MC, get the adapter lines while you have the MC in your hand, and bring the fittings from the valve below, they are a weird size too.
Also buy a good 3/8" line wrench. You'll need it. (the reason why I now have 30" lines on my truck, instead of 40")
My advise to you is, if you have the money, buy a booster/MC combo ($100), 2 calipers ($50), 3 hoses ($40), brake line (probably $25), and pads / shoes (and drums / rotors if you need them, my worked fine).
Also, when replacing the lines from the MC to valve below, get two 30" lines. The originals are like 34", and everyone told me "Go longer" and get the 40" lines. Well, they are TOO freakin' long (unless you have a body lift), and 30" lines fit nice. Another thing is, when you by your MC, get the adapter lines while you have the MC in your hand, and bring the fittings from the valve below, they are a weird size too.
Also buy a good 3/8" line wrench. You'll need it. (the reason why I now have 30" lines on my truck, instead of 40")
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