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I mounted mine in the back. Running the power cables was fairly easy and I could get it off of the floor without affecting any of the passengers or worrying about them messing with it. Advantage is that most of the time I use it for power tools outside the truck and for me running cords out the back is easier. Downside is having to run an extension cord up front when the passengers need it.
Make sure and fuse the power run at the battery. Run a negative line back to the battery, not just the frame. I personally have a fuse on the negative line also. If something happens to the main battery -> frame line then the inverter could be in line for hundreds of amps when you next start the vehicle. You will likely lose it even with the fuse but at least you will minimize the fire hazard. Also think about potential exposure to fluids from spilled drinks, leaving a window open, etc. This is also why I like it in the back and off of the floorboard.
Last of all double check your cabling requirements. Take your peak A/C wattage, divide by 10, then add 30% (better yet 50%) and that should give you a DC amp load allowing for conversion losses and a small margin of error. With that number and the distance of your run you can find plenty of charts to tell you the recommended wire gauge. Remember, those charts are for actual copper wire so be careful if buying something from a car stereo supply source.
I mounted mine under the second row bench seat. I will have to find a new location soon since it will not fit under the captain chairs. I ran my cables from the batteries through the firewall on the driver's side and under the carpet. I will get some pictures up later
Last of all double check your cabling requirements. Take your peak A/C wattage, divide by 10, then add 30% (better yet 50%) and that should give you a DC amp load allowing for conversion losses and a small margin of error. With that number and the distance of your run you can find plenty of charts to tell you the recommended wire gauge. Remember, those charts are for actual copper wire so be careful if buying something from a car stereo supply source.
It'll be quality welding cable. The manual for the Inverter recommends 4/0 cable and a 600 amp fuse for a 5% voltage drop and no more than 15 ft from the battery; So I'm gonna put a pair of Group 31 batteries under the truck.
Wow. What is the brand of the converter? The specs sound almost exactly right. A lot of overseas products have specifications that are, shall we say, less than accurate. Personally I would have gone with a 400 amp fuse but I tend to be overly conservative. Your converter may support a short time surge drain hence the larger fuse spec. It looks as if you've got a good product and are on the way to installing it correctly. Good luck!
Edit: PS - Also make sure you have adequate airflow. Even if you have 90% efficiency on the conversion once you get above the KW continuous load it will be getting hot. Something else to think about is if you are doing heavy continuous loads you might need true deep cycle battery. Note that "Marine Deep Cycle" is not in that category. Unfortunately you can usually only find them from industrial supply sources and they are not cheap. The plus size is that they'll produce spec'd voltage for almost twice as long as car/marine batteries and won't go bad after a couple of discharges. If you are planning on moderate use regularly with the large capacity needed rarely or in an emergency then the consumer batteries will be fine. If you will be using this all of the time then go for the industrial batteries. That is what they are made for.
Here is the tripp light model im using behind my second row passenger seat. Im using 2/0 welder cable to a 225 amp fuse at my battery. This cable also powers my sub amp under the same seathttp://minneapolis.craigslist.org/an...696278101.html
That looks like a very well built pure sine wave inverter, up to 30 amp a/c! Get one of these or similar http://www.mechman.com/. Here is the current from my 1800 watt inverter loaded w\to the max!
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