About to install a JL Audio 2 channel amp into my '03 E250. Will need 4 gauge power wire through a 50 amp fuse for power, suitable ground wire too. I'd like to avoid the typical mess of gizmo's attached to the battery terminal post, thinking instead to run the positive wire from the fender mounted starter solenoid, battery side. Questions are:

-How best to terminate the 4 gauge wiring for proper connection; soldering or having custom leads made up by a vehicle electrical shop?

-Will be using an ANL-type fuse and holder: Ewfh Scosche E2 ANL Car Audio Fuse Holder 0 8 Gauge | eBay

-Best place to obtain any needed supplies/parts I've not yet thought about?


Thanks in advance

 

Don't go to the solenoid. Go directly to the battery.

If you need it to look right, use a proper battery terminal for dual cables.

 

^^^ what he said

Sonicelectronix.com is where I order all my gear from, they are local for me and have the best prices out side of ebay.

As for terminating your wires, you shouldn't have to solder anything

Kicker BT4 Positive or Negative Competition Battery Terminal with new battery terminal, I have used this and its well worth the price.

the fuse size should be 150 amp, we fuse to the wire not the amp.
the external fuses on the amp are to protect the amp, the inline fuse is to prevent power from frying your cable and starting a fire or damage to the electrical system

What are you going to be driving? subs? component set of speakers?

Some things to think about buying, quality rca cables, quality power, signal, and ground cable that meets awg standards and is all copper.

 

4 gauge wire seems pretty big (overkill unless trying for competitive multiple components -cple thousand $ worth) only need an 8 gauge in most cases.... and as the others stated -no soldering..... Gauge of wire and main fuse all depend on what you are trying to push, as Wr310rdr said.

@wr310rdr the 150 amp fuse is a lil big if he's running weaker components... the thing is you WANT the inline main fuse to blow if something does go wrong and depending what he's drawing to begin with. If the fuse is too high, it won't trip til damage has already been done in a low amp drawing system. Most should be 80amp to 100amp for an amplifier pushing a pair of 12" let's say

 

completely possible that im wrong, but the way it was always explained to me was the say, two 30amp fuses on the amp, were to protect the amp itself and that the main power should be fused according to the possible load the cable can handle.

either way you can always start with a smaller fuse, and work your way up until you stop blowing them. Fuses are cheap, amps are not...

Also the jl may be set up to accept a 4 gauge kit (which im willing to bet they would be happy to sell you at 2x the cost of materials), my alpines were and attempting to put an 8 gauge was just a shade too undersized to have a tight fit with the screw in terminals.

 

Yes I totally agree there. The amp has its own fuses and not be increased. The fuses aren't for what the cable can handle, it's for keeping car computers and components safe. Shouldn't be higher than what normal amp draw is from amplifiers, so that if they short out somehow and draw more the main fuse blows.



the main inline fuse is to prevent damage to battery and car's electrical system (ECM, PCM, BCM, etc)



Yes I was dead wrong in gauge sizes I have listed above.... 4 gauge is a good basic size, this way it's a little over but not overkill and many fuse holders and electrical accessories still available for them. I was thinking of the 2 gauge above in my prior posting, sorry. It's about 3/4" thick while 4 gauge is a good 1/2" thick

 

ya the 3 4 channels I have all use 4 gauge and its good for the power they draw

the mono block I have though wants 0/1 and it is a pain to deal with because of how thick it is

 

yikes!....that is a pain to use, doesn't want to hide well or bend...

 

Well guys I do appreciate your input but have to disagree with a few things...........

Initially the amp will only be pushing a pair of 60 watt RMS 5x7's, no subs. This might be upgraded further to a nice set of 6.5's, undecided on that at this moment. I've run 14 gauge wire to the speakers which should be adequate for my listening level.

JL Audio's instructions tell me specifically to use 4 gauge wire and a 50 amp fuse for power---I won't try second guessing them on their own product! Being somewhat experienced with electricity as well as electronics I know the importance of both, mucking about with too large or too small almost always leads to some sort of disaster.

In order to best run and hide the 4 gauge power cable I want to use suitable terminals connected to the starter terminal. Since the amp will be installed under the right seat of my van this is the shorter distance and affords me the best opportunity to hide the cable, not have it being under foot. Keep in mind this cable will be made properly with a heavy duty crimped-on terminal on the starter end, soldered or "tinned" on the amp side.

I've already ordered a few things from Sonix Electronics thru FleaBay----they do have some great products and FREE SHIPPING too---one of my favorite attributes! In fact I'll save them as favorite seller.

Input is always welcome no matter what's offered---I'm somewhat new to the whole technology, science and Voo Doo of "mobile audio" !

 

Since you have to increase the negative cable of the battery, you might as well run the positive there as well. If you go to the solenoid, you'll have to increase the cable from the battery to the solenoid. Then... You're going to have the potential for switching damage due to being connected directly to such a large switch.

Again, go to the battery, not the solenoid. The gear you save may be your own.

Use a suitable fuse at the battery to protect the cable, use fusing in or at the amp to protect the amp.

4 gauge is ok for smaller amps. For adult sized amps I typically go for 1/0 gauge, or 2 runs of 1/0 gauge. Make sure your ground cabling (at the battery) is at least the same size, or larger, and also ground the head unit at the same chassis location as the amp.

 

what is the model number for the jl amp? I have a buddy that works for them and ill give him a call and get the straight dope from him on fuse size

 

The amp model is JX-360/2---the manual specifically calls for a 50 amp fuse.

 

All right so from my buddy at jl.

that amp has no fuse that can be changed without popping the cases, and voiding the warranty. where most amps have a 20,30, or dual 30 amp uses on the cases this has a single distro/fuse inside it rated at ~ 60 amps. this is actually common practice in professional audio amplifiers which I have experience with, im an audio engineer by trade.

How he said to wire it in to prevent damage to both the amp and cable...

as close to you battery as you can mount put a fuse holder with a 100 amp fuse, to protect the wiring, charging system, and battery, and then mount another 50amp fuse near the amplifier.

If you have already purchased the amp, that is the way to go to make it truly safe in all aspects. If you haven't I would suggest going with any of these options, which all have fuses on the amp that can be changed

Pioneer PRS-D800 300W RMS 2-Channel Class FD Car Amplifier
Smaller, same approximate power, higher signal to noise ratio and cheaper

Pioneer GM-5500T (GM5500T) 820W 2-Channel GM Car Amplifier
approximately the same size, similar s to n ratio, cheaper

or if you want to spend a bit more
Alpine MRX-F65 650W RMS 4-Channel X Power Series Car Amplifier
Smaller, same power on 4 channels, higher s to n ratio. I have two of these in my truck running components bi-amped and the power is very clean and so is the signal

 

Again thanks for the input guys----truly its very much appreciated---reps coming to you all!

I bought the JL Audio amp for $139 shipped from FleaBay, good seller with plenty of positive feedback. The price seemed right, its already resting in its eventual mounting place---under the passenger seat of my E250 van.

My original thought was to make the 4 gauge power feed cable with a suitable ring tongue terminal connected to the starter's stud which is directly connected to the + battery post. (Previously mentioned starter solenoid before I realized my van doesn't use one!) This method eliminates all the battery post clutter I've seen too often with these sort of upgrades.

By running the power feed under the body I have a cleaner and more accessible path getting the power to the amp; grounding will be accomplished via 4 gauge cable with crimped ring tongue terminal attached to the seat base mounting bolts. With the E Vans interior room is severely limited, a clear safe path for the power feed doesn't seem possible at this moment. Plus under body I can secure the power cable to the body with clips---an important step I think.

I'm still looking for a suitable, easily accessible location to drill a thru hole in any other location than what I've thought was the best idea. While accessibility is an issue so is where the power cable lays after installed too. I don't want it where it would interfere with normal use like foot traffic etc. If I can find a location through the firewall I'll reconsider using the battery terminal multi-position replacement terminal similar to what was offered earlier in this thread.

I"ll use an ANL style 50 amp fuse located near the amp, under the seat with the LED-type "glow" feature to quickly identify if I've lost power to the amp. A 100 amp fuse for the cable and vehicle system is a great idea---I'll have to incorporate that some way.

Guys I don't want to seem to be going against or ignoring your ideas--I'm new to this and was hoping to draw from your own experiences. So far I've learned a lot and will proceed carefully, very much keeping all your suggestions in mind.

Thanks and keep the ideas coming---I'm anxious to pump some Danny Gatton and Arlen Roth tunes though my rather bland 17 watts/channel current system!