When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The single wire to the 'start' button is to ground out that terminal. In other words the button just grounds that wire to the chassis, If you can disconnect that wire from the back of the start button you can eliminate the switch by touching the end of the wire to a clean place on the dash or touching it against a temporary ground wire you have attached elsewhere that;s clean, maybe even on engine or tranny. Tapping this start button wire to ground will (should) activate the starter solenoid to engage the starter. That's how I start my tonner pickup because the button is all corroded. Next, with the big battery-type cable from the solenoid to the starter disconnected, you should hear a pretty loud click coming from the solenoid when the start button is grounded. It will 'unclick' when the start button wire is no longer grounded. I usually tap the start button wire to ground and the solenoid should be clicking along with the taps. These should test both the start button and the solenoid. Does your solenoid have the handy little button on the bottom to activate it from under the hood? Sometimes these tend to stick. Napa has lots of good solenoids in stock. Wish I could get away and sneak over to Bellingham.....
For a while, I was able to get the solenoid to engage by doing just that (grounding the wire to bare metal on the dash), but that doesn't work any more. However, the button on the solenoid does still work, and that's how I've been getting the starter to do its work. The issue now is that the engine craps out right after starting up, and then (despite the starter cranking) the engine doesn't start again. I think my solenoid is partly bad (the starter button circuit is bad), but partly good (the solenoid button circuit is still ok. The bigger issue is why I can't get the engine to stay fired up.
Finally had a chance to install the refurbished distributor from Bubba's, along with a new solenoid and coil. With a little help from a shot of starter fluid, the truck started right up and sounded better than I've ever heard it. Thanks to GB for sharing his insights when he swung through Bellingham on his way to E. Mass. What he told me, together with the info on this post saved me a bucket of tears. Now I can turn my attention to the brakes and with a bit of luck, will have the truck back on the road soon!
-Captain Sygo
Hopefully, this attempt to upload a video of the engine running works - I've not tried loading videos to this site before.
-The Cap'n
Sounds great! You done it! Maybe start a new thread on your brake job with pics. Most brake parts are available at napa under the heading of 122" wb truck. Also There is a great custom brake reliner in Bellingham next to the old Wilson toyota. His shop is called something like 'unlimited specialties'. Is that an oxymoron?
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.