'47 tonner electrical issues, cont'd
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
Can't remember anything other than somebody complaining about them for something. I think we found out why! Especially makes sense on 6 volt system, there is just a tiny screw that carries all the current. They may be copies of something that was once good and decent, I dunno.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Once I get the system working, I'll have to get the Flaming River version! The gremlins have shifted to another area...I'm not getting any ignition. After trying to start it, I noticed a hot electric smell in the cab, looked around, and found that the resistance unit (in line between the ignition switch and the coil) was HOT. I then did a test with the ignition switch off and a jumper cable connecting the negative post of the battery to the BAT pole on the coil, and still no ignition when I tried to start it. Any good ideas for how to tell if the coil, the condenser, distributor, or something else is causing the problem?
As always - many thanks for all of your great support and suggestions!
The Cap'n
As always - many thanks for all of your great support and suggestions!
The Cap'n
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 4
From: W. Pa
I seem to remember that those disconnects used to be made of solid brass but the new ones are only made of brass coated metal. Check yours out and see if the brass coating is deteriorating.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 4
From: W. Pa
Unfortunately I have a very simplistic understanding of electrical issues. I know that all electric components have smoke in them. If something happens and the smoke is released, that is bad.
Seriously, do you have a wiring diagram for your truck? I'd start by tracing all the wires and make sure all are connected properly. Then you can start checking for bad components. The Ford Barn has several threads dealing with electrical issues. Wish I could be of more help.
Seriously, do you have a wiring diagram for your truck? I'd start by tracing all the wires and make sure all are connected properly. Then you can start checking for bad components. The Ford Barn has several threads dealing with electrical issues. Wish I could be of more help.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2015
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Likes: 0
Thanks, Joe. I do have a wiring diagram and after putting in all new harnesses last fall, I went through it several times to make sure that everything was wired as it should be, though there are some minor modifications (since I'm using the 1-wire alternator, instead of a generator). Nothing obvious jumps out as being incorrectly wired, though it's possible I've overlooked something. I also recall when GB saw my truck a bit over a year ago that he said it sounded like it wasn't firing on all cylinders, so perhaps the ignition gremlin I'm encountering now is related to that issue.
The Cap'n
The Cap'n
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
The ballast resistor drops a lot of voltage, they get hot for sure. That is not cause for concern as such.
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 4
From: W. Pa
Another question for you. What condition are your trucks wiring harnesses in? Is it all original, some original with some newer splices, or totally re-wired? The old cloth covered wiring can be really bad after so many years and it's just a fire looking for a time to happen. I had a NOS harness I was planning to use on my truck. Took it out of the box and it looked great. Then when I tried to straighten it out the insulation cracked at about every bend and exposed bare wire.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2015
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On Ford Barn, I've read some discussions on ignition-related issues, and one of them involved polarizing the voltage regulator and generator. I've got a new alternator that is connected to a new voltage regulator - do I need to do something to polarize them?
Laughing Gas
Joined: Feb 2013
Posts: 853
Likes: 4
From: W. Pa
Pretty sure only generators need polarized.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2015
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