There has been some bad feedback on aftermarket switches lately, I'd go OEM myself.

 

I was also wondering if you know about something. My blower motor and my A/C clutch stopped working. I know both of these still work because i rigged up something to see if i could get the clutch to lock and it did and posting the positive/ negative wires from the blower motor on a battery quickly proved that it still worked too. When i took the A/C box out there were two resistors maybe? that were inside the box. I think I got them mixed up because when i went to turn my heat on (this was december 2014) smoke came out of the vents. That was one of the times my picky blower motor wanted to work. IT used to work all of the time and then one day my friend turned it off and it didn't come back on except a few occasions when I flipped the lever. Is there a diagram that could show me where everything goes or something to break it down so I can figure this out myself? I'm $300 in to new a/c parts and I need my blower motor and a/c clutch to work. and smoke to not come out of my vents preferably.

What is that silver box that sits in front of the hood hinges on the inner fender?

 

DuraSpark ignition module located on the left (drivers) side inner fender apron, just in front of the firewall.

 

Factory A/C, and the passenger side has a little silver relay or resistor or something. I don't know what it is. Maybe its the horn relay or something. I should also say that the vent vacuum switch was changed out around march 2013 and during this process the old blower motor switch broke so it got a new one of those too. About a year later me and a friend were sitting in the truck and he turned the switch off and ever since it has only worked about a dozen times out of about 100 that I've tried to use it. I don't think it is a ground because it doesn't just shut off. It will stay on until I turn it off. Then it doesn't want to come back on. I replaced the blower motor relay soon after it stopped working all the time but it didn't fix the problem. A few months later i took the entire A/C box out of the truck and tore it completely apart. That's when I tested the blower motor and compressor clutch. I put it all back together and it still did not work. New years eve 2014 soon to be 2015 I was driving to a friends house and I tried turning my heat on. It came on and then smoke started coming out of my vents so I shut it off. I think I got those two little relays or resistors or whatever they are inside of the box mixed up. They have the same connector, they're only exposed if you take off the cover from underneath the dash on the passenger side. I haven't touched anything A/C related since. I'm trying to figure out my problem before I take that box out again.

 

Upper picture: 19B888 (D5TZ-19B888-A) is the A/C Vacuum Control Selector Valve Assy. All the vacuum hoses attach to this valve that also contains the "kicker switch" that turns on the compressor.

Lower picture: 19706 (D3TZ-19706-A) is the blower motor resistor.

 

One more thing, It's a long shot..... Do you know where I can get a new A/C box for my truck? Mines cracked and duct tape covers the hole where its cracked. These trucks in junkyards around where I live are unheard of.

 

The part you're looking for is Evaporator housing D5TZ-19A559-A. Its obsolete and unfortunately no dealer or obsolete supplier shows any in stock.

 

So junkyard is my only option. Where are the VIN numbers located on these trucks? I got the vin number off of it and took it to the county clerk to try and file for a lost title but the vin number on the door was not showing up in the system. There's two other tags, one on the door seal near where the door latch striker is that has the same number as the one on the door. The one on the door seal that sits towards the front of the truck has a different number. I'm trying to figure out which one is what.

 

Most states go by the VIN number stamped on the frame rail. The metal plate on the door, the warranty plate, isn't a "legal" VIN. It's not attached to a permanent part of the cab, doors are easy to change.
The VIN is stamped on the frame in two places, one visible and one hidden.
The visible VIN is stamped on the top of the passenger side frame rail. It can be anywhere between the radiator support and firewall but is usually about inline with the alternator.
You'll probably need some degreaser and a wire brush to find it. Sometimes they're lightly stamped and difficult to find/read.
The hidden VIN is on top of the same rail, up under the cab. You'll need a mirror to find that one.
In the pictures, the first one is the visible VIN in the engine compartment, the second is the hidden VIN that's under the cab.

 

Gotcha. I found mine with a little scraping of my fingernail but I'll have to take some oven cleaner and a wire brush to it to uncover it clearly. thanks for all the help guys!

 

I've got a few questions.... first one is I'm pretty much rebuilding the front end of the truck and I have it all completely torn apart. The radiator core support is hanging from my engine lift, freshly stripped and painted along with the factory radiator also stripped and painted and brand new condenser and dehydrator. and a brand new chrome motorcraft voltage regulator (im a little more proud of that than i should be) but most everything else I'm having a little trouble figuring out how the headlight mounts go on. EVERYTHING got torn completely apart in december and I can't remember exactly how everything goes back on. It's getting put back together and then going back on the truck as the whole front end assembly since thats what I've read is the easiest way for it to come off/go back on.

Question #2: Probably something NumberDummy will know. My paint code is SM which I'm assuming means the truck had a white top and white in between the racetrack style trim, and the rest of the truck was bright dark blue metallic. I'm needing to find paint codes to get those original colors mixed. I google searched but didn't really find anything.

 

1977 Ford Pickups Dealer Brochure

Check on page 16 of this brochure for the paint combinations.

 

You already have the paint codes. S and M are the Ford color codes. Any good paint supply should have a mixing formula for those codes. As far as your two tone combination, Ford had three possible combinations, regular, deluxe, and regular and deluxe combined. If you had regular two tone, the roof would've been painted white, the rest of the body blue. Deluxe the race track insert was painted white and the rest of the body was blue. With the combination, the roof and insert was painted white, the rest blue.
For your headlights, here are some pictures:

 

Yeah that clears things up. I wasn't sure how the headlights went back in. I knew they had to go in a certain way because of the adjusting screws. What hardware did you use to mount the radiator? I can only find a set from LMC for $80 and I hate to buy anything from them. It looks like instead of putting the whole front end on, I'm gonna do it the way you did. Makes hooking up those hard to reach electrical connections easier.

I also have some loose wire connections in the engine area near near the ignition control module. I'll post a pic later and see if you or someone else can tell me what they're for.

As for the paint, I know it used to have a white top because a previous owner put a really crappy primer and base coat on it but didn't bother to clear coat it. Whoever did it did a really crappy job on the top. I can see white in some places. The sides I'm probably going to have to scratch some paint off to see if there's any white under it.

 

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