Electrical Q's: Ground(s)
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From: Asheville-where weird is
Electrical Q's: Ground(s)
Besides the body to chassis/frame ground on the passenger side of the truck near the back of the leaf spring, is/are there a/any additional body to chassis/frame ground(s)?
Is there any reason to limit the gauge of wire, as in larger, when replacing the OEM multi-stranded non-insulated copper strap? Why was this type chosen originally by the electrical engineers?
Should I simply bite the bullet and purchase the OEM strap? Or, could I simply use some 4 or 6 gauge wire?
The one on this truck is tired, brittle and blue....
Is there any reason to limit the gauge of wire, as in larger, when replacing the OEM multi-stranded non-insulated copper strap? Why was this type chosen originally by the electrical engineers?
Should I simply bite the bullet and purchase the OEM strap? Or, could I simply use some 4 or 6 gauge wire?
The one on this truck is tired, brittle and blue....
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Texas
No reason not to use regular ground wires, or even add additional grounds of your own.
I added a 4 ga. ground cable from my driver side battery to one of the mounting bolts on my alternator. Additional or replacement grounds are easy to add.
I added a 4 ga. ground cable from my driver side battery to one of the mounting bolts on my alternator. Additional or replacement grounds are easy to add.
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From: Asheville-where weird is
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From: Asheville-where weird is
I have seen it on our '02 but not on this e99. Maybe it was removed by the PO. I do have one on the negative terminal wire on the DS battery to the body though.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2016
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The main "chassis ground" is one (1) AWG Smaller than the primary Battery (+). A 4-AWG as descried is sufficient.
As F350-6 has mentioned. Consider grounding your Alternator Case to the (-) Battery Post as well with the same size wire. The mount and bolts are less than desirable as they corrode. I was reading an article in a trade magazine that, at least "in theory", this will help reduce heat on the internal rectifier and regulator.
In addition to what Pikachu pointed out, make sure the Bed is strapped as well. And, I can't recall where that one is. Perhaps not. Its been eons since I removed a Bed.
As F350-6 has mentioned. Consider grounding your Alternator Case to the (-) Battery Post as well with the same size wire. The mount and bolts are less than desirable as they corrode. I was reading an article in a trade magazine that, at least "in theory", this will help reduce heat on the internal rectifier and regulator.
In addition to what Pikachu pointed out, make sure the Bed is strapped as well. And, I can't recall where that one is. Perhaps not. Its been eons since I removed a Bed.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Amarillo, TEXAS!
All the 7.3 Powerstroke equipped trucks should have it, including the OBS trucks. It isn't much fun getting bolted to the head if you forget to attach it before dropping an engine in, either.
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From: Asheville-where weird is
I will look again and get back to you.
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From: Puget Sound
The two very important grounds I have worked with go directly to the block. There is a ground lug on the driver-side of the block that goes directly to the negative post on the driver-side battery, and the same arrangement exists on the passenger side. I do not recommend grounds from the batteries to the chassis - I recommend they go straight to the block, then you can ground the chassis to the block. Here's why:
There is absolutely nothing on the chassis that uses the Cold Cranking Amps available from the batteries, unless you add something big - like a hydraulic pump for a plow. The starter motor and the glow plugs use all the juice - and you want the fewest possible "jumpers" between the batteries and the block. Given that, I went so far as to read the ohms between each battery ground post and the block - this is when I found a poor connection on the driver-side ground. I removed the ground cable, cleaned the holy hell out of all connection points, and re-installed. The ohms then dropped to zero after my work.
There is absolutely nothing on the chassis that uses the Cold Cranking Amps available from the batteries, unless you add something big - like a hydraulic pump for a plow. The starter motor and the glow plugs use all the juice - and you want the fewest possible "jumpers" between the batteries and the block. Given that, I went so far as to read the ohms between each battery ground post and the block - this is when I found a poor connection on the driver-side ground. I removed the ground cable, cleaned the holy hell out of all connection points, and re-installed. The ohms then dropped to zero after my work.
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From: Asheville-where weird is
No surprise there!On this truck it is a much smaller braided non-insulated strap that goes from the PS head over top of the HVAC fan/blower compartment and bolts to the cab portion of the truck. I will be cleaning it later tonight. It too is blue...
Thank you for the tip.
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From: Asheville-where weird is
I am curious as to why? Some circuitry will use a jumper to ground for each component......
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In other words, if given a choice between two ground circuits...
A. Cable from battery directly to block
or
B. Cable from battery to body, then another ("jumper") cable from body to block
... then the preferred embodiment of a ground circuit would be A, as it contains fewer "jumpers", or connections, or points of resistance, or points of contact failure.
What you are talking about is direct and separate grounds for each component in a given set of circuitry... which essentially is exactly what I interpret Tugly to be talking about. Essentially, your anecdote illustrates the same direct connection to ground circuitry that Tugly is trying to convey. You guys are on the same page, as I see it.