'02 XLT 3.0L 4X4

Making a grinding sound when travelling straight or turning left. Any turn to the right (even the camber of the passing lane) and there is no grinding sound so I figured it was the drivers side wheel bearing. Replaced it yesterday.... symptoms are still there.

Tight left/right turns don't result in the popping/snapping of a bad CV joint so I don't think that's it.

I don't think it's transmission related since shifting is good and the grinding is not throttle related. Besides, turning shouldn't have an effect on the sound if it was something in the transmission, right?

Ideas?

 

The confusing part is that it grinds going straight also. Turning left, you are pivoting on your left side and your right side wheels(back and front) are rotating faster. You do have a open differential in the front/rear so there are gears into play in front/rear because of the wheel speed differences but going straight they shouldn't be in play unless you have major wheel diameter differences.

 

No major differences in wheel diameter left vs right or front vs rear. All 4 get replaced at the same time and periodic rotation keeps them even.
it doesn't take much... Straight in the driving lane and it's there, switch to the passing lane and it's gone.
I'm doing rear brakes today so I'll take a real close look at the tires. It's about time to rotate anyway so it'll be interesting to see if the sound changes/goes away.

 

A bad bearing should 'whine' more than 'grind', FWIW. The EMT design uses ball bearings, I think, which do not like 'side loads'. That slight problem is handled by canting the bearings in the hub to make the 'side' become closer to square on to the bearing. At least the pictures seem to show that.
When you replaced the bearing, did you check it for smooth operation? If it rotated freely and smoothly, I don't think it would make noise.
Did you happen to rotate the drive axle? The final drive inside the transmission could have some spider gear stuff going on when you are in a turn.
There are three bearings inside the CV joints, one on each 'finger'. If the boot is damaged, it can allow contamination and bearing destruction. If you wobbled the joint around, you would have felt each 'finger' bearing move. The trio of bearings are mounted on the ends of the output shaft, and have ball-shaped rollers that move in the inner diameter of the CV joint 'outer' whenever there is an angle in the shaft, such as turning. When straight ahead, there is little bearing movement, but some, as the axle will not likely be exactly 'straight' due to loads(height changes), road imperfections, and so on. The inner tire on a turn will have a significantly increased angle on the CV joint as the turn radius is shorter, and the wheel must turn sharper.
When disconnected from the knuckle, the CV joint wobbling in every direction would 'exercise' the bearings, and any bearing or race(of the bearing or the inner CV surface) would be felt.
tom

 

Yes but they aren't ordinary radial ball bearing but double row angular contact meaning they can take side loads.

 

Well, I knew there was some 'trick' being used, i.e., canted, but was unaware of the 'pairing'. So far so good as I have not had to mess with my own beast's hubs. Knock on formica.
I have a mental picture of two bearings, with the smaller diameter races being closer together on the shaft than the outer races. Is that a 'picture' that jives with the reality?
tom

 

Yes but picture a pair of tapered roller bearing from the past and as your pull them together you get more rigidity. These ball bearing force the ***** tighter against a radius. I haven't touched mine either not with only 15K on it! Timken actually sells wheel bearings with the word NASCAR in it's name:https://www.lefthanderchassis.com/v2...dgroup=2514056. They use disc brakes but tapered bearings.



I actually bailed from another forum because of a discussion about wheel bearings. IIRC, they were saying that you can adjust the preload with the axle nut which is incorrect. I got warned about being argumentative with the mod's buddy.

 

Ski: I got warned about being argumentative with the mod's buddy.

Some people are very sensitive about being correct at all times, and are offended when you pull out the manual and indicate where they should read to become more informed.
It is very uncomfortable to tell a mechanic doing a 'safety inspection' that he is testing ball joints incorrectly. [think he wanted to sell some ball joints] I was invited to leave, after paying my bill, and failed the inspection... Passed with flying at another garage.
That is just the way they are wired, and you cannot and will not change them. They "know so many things that just aren't so...", and dont' let facts get in the way. Kind of living blind, without being open to new ideas. Wonder what they think of 'Touch Tone' phones and 8-tracks?
tom

 

Funny thing was the OP of the thread posted a picture from catalog of the bearing showing a solid inner race and that was my point, it has to be split in two as that's where there is a tiny gap. The axle nut when tightened closes that gap till seated setting the the built in preload. The OP chimed in way at the end that the picture was incorrect but the damage was done by then and I never returned.

Some mistake disagreeing for arguing. I had Ford Oasis access at that time and posted many TSB, diagrams, etc. at that site also.

I see stuff also that I know is wrong but pass since that happened.

 

Feel free to smack me with a virtual rolled up newspaper if you see I'm posting wrong information!
I don't mind...accurate information is key especially when there are DIYers using the posted information as reference material.

 

I know of guy that had a noise where he ended up using a wired or wireless microphone made for diagnosing noise on vehicles. I do have a Shure SM58 and a Blue Yeti USB mirophone.

 

So was the original issue resolved? I didn't see anything about replacing the bearings and all was good. Just wondering, because I have the issues of a grinding/rubbing noise when I am turning and accelerating, like making a turn from a stop at a red light. No noise going straight. Doing 80 MPH on the highway doesn't cause any noise at all.

 

My apologies, thought I had "closed" the post. I replaced bearings, but had a fixture slip while pressing. Toasted new bearings. Grrr........
Got 2 new sets and a Bearing and seal press so I could press them into place on the vehicle. So much easier that way...
Did both sides because I figured the other side couldn't be far behind the already failed drivers side.


Use a generous supply of Never-Seize on the threads.

jcollier22 - The grinding... take it to a parking lot and turn slow tight right and left turns. If you hear a clicking/grunching sort of sound it's probably a CV joint and not a bearing. The easiest way I know to determine a failing wheel bearing is to change lanes on a road with a good crown (center of the road is notably higher than the edges). There will be a point where the vehicle suddenly has a "lurch" into the lane like someone jerked the steering wheel even though you know you didn't. If you have this, DO NOT drive at highway speeds and service the situation as soon as possible.