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73 overheating

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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 06:16 PM
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73 overheating

I have several things, one is an exhaust leak, has been there over a year, manifold needs a gasket, I replaced the EGR plate under my carb with a spacer, throwing out all of the emissions hoses. It's not just doing it at idle, on the way home driving 55 MPH, it really got hot, I had the thermostat replaced last year, there wasn't one, so I think that was done because the previous owner thought that was the answer. This only happens in the summer, did the removal of the EGR amplify it, or is it the addition of the thermostat, as it went in after summer? Could the exhaust leak be causing it, it does make the doghouse hot. I am in the middle of contemplation of adding the EGR back, I don't want to, it's trouble to plumb the hoses back to operate it.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 07:25 PM
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I'd say all of the above, and new parts can still fail. A used 302/351 and somebody is pulling the T/Stat out to keep it from overheating generally has a blow Head Gasket(s) and/or warped head(s).......
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 08:10 PM
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Runs flawless year round, only gets hot in the summer, I just put the EGR back on, hooked it through the thermo-switch, nothing else, the front distributor vacuum is hooked to the carb, rear is disconnected, don't like the dual setup. I hope to get at the exhaust leak, need help, I can't drag the air compressor outside myself, plan to use my impact to break the bolts loose. The radiator is 21 years old, could have buildup in it, lookin to replace it with an aluminum before I convert to power brakes. No way it's a head or head gasket leak as it has run fine until the summer 90+ temps hit, the internet has many telling that the EGR was added to lower exhaust temps, hopefully adding it back should alleviate my problem.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 08:53 PM
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It cools cylinder temps and you should of had a nasty part throttle spark knock with it unplugged. Back in the day a recurved distributor was a must for unplugging anything on a 73, of course a pair of 70-72 heads were nice with a 4bl carb and headers........lol
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 09:29 PM
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Nope, flawless, you feel a jump with every shift, the vacuum modulator has it shifting tight, runs so good, I have an HEI distributor, not installed it because I'd need to rewire the ignition to lose the resistor. I really need to get at the exhaust leak, I hear it has gotten worse, so perhaps thats where my heat source is, I will be going with an aluminum radiator anyway later.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by econolinemanor
I'd say all of the above, and new parts can still fail. A used 302/351 and somebody is pulling the T/Stat out to keep it from overheating generally has a blow Head Gasket(s) and/or warped head(s).......
LOL and BS

I'm thinking plugged radiator
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by vettex2
LOL and BS

I'm thinking plugged radiator
I think it's time to let you all have at it........good bye forum, I have better things to do!
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 05:07 PM
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In reality, you can't really diagnose cooling on a forum.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by vettex2
In reality, you can't really diagnose cooling on a forum.
I know, looking for suggestions on what to look into to make sure I haven't overlooked anything and to get a take on whether others had the same EGR arrangement, and if they had removed the EGR with the same result. Remember, some choices are not always effective, so those looking to do as I have can learn from this, the EGR is reconnected, now to see if the problem persists.
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 08:04 PM
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Originally Posted by econolinemanor
I think it's time to let you all have at it........good bye forum, I have better things to do!
Don't get mad, I have been looking for suggestions to see if there is something I may have missed, along with hoping to see if someone has done the same as I with similar results.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 12:01 AM
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The EGR shouldn't affect cooling , just emissions
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 12:36 AM
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Keep reading about it lowering exhaust temps, just grasping at straws since it just started and it coincides with the removal of it, the exhaust leak has been there for a year, but gotten worse, it's next, can't afford a radiator right now, it is 21 years old, coolant looks clean, I changed it about 2 years ago, it's rated beyond the reading of my gauge, as I mixed it a lil heavy. It did get hot lat year, but was in traffic, no fan shroud, but this time it refused to cool down, at 55 MPH it should have sufficient air flow for cooling.
There is a welded aluminum radiator offered now, only one row, but I remember the cores on aluminum radiators are large, flow far more coolant than copper, the one I put in my 99 E350 is extremely cool in all conditions, even when worked hard, just not sure a one row is good enough.
 
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Old Jul 13, 2016 | 11:38 AM
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no fan shroud?
you should have one on
it makes a huge difference
 
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Old Jul 13, 2016 | 04:05 PM
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Originally Posted by vettex2
no fan shroud?
you should have one on
it makes a huge difference
Know all about that, but the sad fact is they were never made for them, when the dealer AC conversion was offered, one had to be added, which is very rare and not available. I have been thinking about an electric fan conversion, but not into trusting one just yet, but just might be my only option. The mid Ford is the ******* child, the forgotten one when it comes to the aftermarket it seems.
 
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