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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 04:42 PM
  #16  
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Exactly as Six said above. A high volume pump is just pressuring more oil to dump as heat if the relief spring has popped. He has relayed a stripped cam gear; I understand the physics and I believe him.

If you want to raise idle oil pressure, when the pan is down, it takes two hours to replace the rod bearings. That is the way to raise idle pressure. A high volume pump is a band-aid.

Anyway, I surrender. I just dumped another quart of 10/30 into the crankcase of my worldbeater 240.

My mightymite 240 carries 25psi at idle and 50 at rpm. This is after an Okie overhaul about 50k miles ago. Oil pressure went from 5 to 25 at idle with shells. Stock pump.

Semper Fi
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 07:30 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by HIO Silver
HIO, this is for a SB Ford. Or are you just recommending these guides?
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 09:43 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by GaryKip
I think high volume and std. pressure would be best, and add a windage tray along with 6 Qts of oil.
Okay GK. What would be the added benefits for my app? Also, I sounds like a scraper would also bee a good investment.

But again, I'm on a tight budget so for my application it sounds like a windage tray goes into my wish list lit at the moment.
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 09:59 PM
  #19  
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These keep your oil from splashing up on your crank so it don't get foamy where ya mite suck air. But oil can still rush to the back of the pan but as you can see it's kept off the crank.
I run 7Qt's
OrichName:  windagetray1.jpg
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 12:49 PM
  #20  
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All the things I've read seem to reinforce that this application is more for high performance engines.

If not...

Any recommendations on a good one to buy for my 428?
 
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Old Jul 11, 2016 | 11:56 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
All the things I've read seem to reinforce that this application is more for high performance engines.

If not...

Any recommendations on a good one to buy for my 428?
I got mine off ebay for $40 with free shipping some time go.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 12:33 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
Okay GK. What would be the added benefits for my app? Also, I sounds like a scraper would also bee a good investment.

But again, I'm on a tight budget so for my application it sounds like a windage tray goes into my wish list lit at the moment.
I google mostly everything on here that I dont know.

Turns out, your stock pan may already have a scraper installed in it.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 01:57 AM
  #23  
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This is from the sticky notes that HIO Silver put together at the top of the main page.
CarCraft Magazine: Build a Low-Buck Street/Strip FE other articles that you can find about changing the oil pump on an FE engine at google. http://www.fordfe.info/OilMods.htm, or http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182...+for+you------

 
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Old Jul 13, 2016 | 01:49 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Ford_Six
If you have new bearings or more than about 5-8psi of idle oil pressure, a high volume pump can cause more headaches than anything. I once had a 78 F150 with a built 400, and the previous owner put in a high volume pump as part of a rebuild. The truck stripped the teeth off the cam gear more than once before we sorted out that is was the oil pump's fault. Once the pump was changed it stopped doing that.
If you have the pan off, do the right fix and throw in new bearings along with a regular pump.
2X Jared. Look Todd, the oil pump is the "heart" of your engine's oiling system. If it goes, so does your motor. In a real expensive way. If YOU needed a heart transplant which would YOU choose? A heart of unknown origin and unknown quality or a Quality one? If you are going to do the toothless Jake style then obviously high horsepower or high RPM's are not in your immediate future. Otherwise you would be rolling the dice and loosing soon. So I say buy a Famous Brand, QUALITY, standard oil pump. Let me repeat....QUALITY Name Brand. BTW, did I mention QUALITY Name Brand? Watch the watch go back and forth. Back and forth. Back and forth. Now think Heart attack. Not pleasant.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 02:34 AM
  #25  
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No scraper

Originally Posted by Jklnhyd
I google mostly everything on here that I dont know.

Turns out, your stock pan may already have a scraper installed in it.
Nah, mine is just a stock pan. But it would be interesting trying to make one after checking out various images. There is a tutorial on youtube I think that shows how to make a tray using steel mesh.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 02:48 AM
  #26  
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I know

Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
2X Jared. Look Todd, the oil pump is the "heart" of your engine's oiling system. If it goes, so does your motor. In a real expensive way. If YOU needed a heart transplant which would YOU choose? A heart of unknown origin and unknown quality or a Quality one? If you are going to do the toothless Jake style then obviously high horsepower or high RPM's are not in your immediate future. Otherwise you would be rolling the dice and loosing soon. So I say buy a Famous Brand, QUALITY, standard oil pump. Let me repeat....QUALITY Name Brand. BTW, did I mention QUALITY Name Brand? Watch the watch go back and forth. Back and forth. Back and forth. Now think Heart attack. Not pleasant.
That's why I asked for opinions. I really want to try and do this as best I can for the engine with my limited resources.

What do you think of Sealed Power products?
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 05:27 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
That's why I asked for opinions. I really want to try and do this as best I can for the engine with my limited resources.

What do you think of Sealed Power products?
Sealed power or TRW are descent products that I would trust for an oil pump. As a matter of fact right now I have some Sealed Power .030 O/S 351W pistons up for auction on EBAY. I had bought them new Years ago when I thought I was going to drop my 76 351W in the 71 F100 I used to have. That project stalled.
So as you can tell I do trust Sealed Power products.
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 06:39 PM
  #28  
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I'm running Seal Power pistons & ring set. The pistons were all the same perfect OD size and did not need to be fitted to one cylinder.

So when the shop did the boring the cylinders they honed to the piston sizes.
I had told them use torque plate when honing that simulates that the head is on and the head bolts torqued tight. Those are how good of parts come from S/P is.

I first ordered a piston & ring set from Rock Auto that turned out to be junk as 3 of the pistons were damages . One of the boxes was marked N/G
So ordered a set form Jegs or Summit can't remember now but they were perfect in size great. Seal Power must have a good QC management.

I'd trust any of their products, but always check & Mic everything you buy.
Orich
 
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Old Jul 14, 2016 | 06:53 PM
  #29  
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I'm running SP Pistons. No complaints with them.

But I haven't had good luck with their lifters or pushrods.
 
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