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Ok guys, so, I did like Cowmilker said, and crossed the 2 terminals on the starter relay on the fender. Started right up. But, thats the only way it will start. I turn if off and try to start it with the key and nothing.... still....
I understand you are desperately trying to get back on the road, but let's try to isolate the problem first, then replace parts as needed. Replacing suspect parts can make it difficult to find the source. Did you try jumping the solenoid first?
Ok. Put your foot on the brake and put the shifter in Reverse or Drive and see if it starts there. If it does the MLPS on the transmission is out of adjustment.
Does it have a remote start or an alarm on it that might have a starter interrupt blocking the path from the key to the starter solenoid?
Check to see if the small wire at the starter solenoid on the fender has voltage when the key is in the Start position. Otherwise, take a volt meter to the ignition switch in the column to check to see if it is sending voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position.
Ok. Put your foot on the brake and put the shifter in Reverse or Drive and see if it starts there. If it does the MLPS on the transmission is out of adjustment.
Does it have a remote start or an alarm on it that might have a starter interrupt blocking the path from the key to the starter solenoid?
Check to see if the small wire at the starter solenoid on the fender has voltage when the key is in the Start position. Otherwise, take a volt meter to the ignition switch in the column to check to see if it is sending voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position.
Kevin
Will do Kevin.
Do you think the ignition key cylinder could go bad? I wouldn't think it would but....
This is just unreal, it was running just fine when the fuel line blew!!
Does the shifter on the column feel loose? It could be the 2 torx bolts at the bottom of the column by the u-joint that hold the plate on there that is attached to the cable that goes to the transmission. If they are loose then the cable isn't pushing the transmission selector all the way into the right place for the gears.
It could be the lock cylinder, but you could verify that by using the volt meter and seeing if the red/lt blue wire is getting 12 volts when key is in start. I think that is the wire.
good deal, at least now we know it will start. Looks like Kevin has got you on the right track for troubleshooting the linkage. Hopefully a little tweaking will get your back on the road
Still nothing!!!
I guess its time to throw in the towel and take her to the shop!!
Never in my life have I seen anything like this....
Absolutely ridiculous!
If you can change a fuel line, then you should be able to figure this electrical problem out with a little effort.
Do you have a volt meter you can use?
I don't think the radio and stuff would work if the fuse was bad. Next step is ignition switch in column. Not the lock cylinder with the key.
You should be able to see the wires coming out of the ignition switch and be able to test it easily to see if the red/lt blue wire has voltage when the key is in start.
I can only see few scenarios on this. When the fuel line broke the fuel got on the wires and broke the connection to the solenoid on the fender or it got on the battery terminals and they need to be cleaned.
Or my other thought is that you were in a hurry to shut off the truck when you noticed fuel pumping out and you jammed the gear shifter and knocked it out of place.
I could be wrong on the cause, but I know you can figure this out with the help from the guys around here.
All terminals and connections to the batteries have been cleaned and look to be in great shape and getting good connectivity.
Sorry I didn't add that earlier.
Key cylinder wouldn't have anything to do with it.
Remove the ignition switch down under the dash and actuate it by hand. See if it turns over.
Also on auto equipped trucks, there's a jumper where the clutch switch would be, check that.
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