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1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Reds Dead... Again!!!!

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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 05:19 PM
  #16  
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Ok guys, so, I did like Cowmilker said, and crossed the 2 terminals on the starter relay on the fender. Started right up. But, thats the only way it will start. I turn if off and try to start it with the key and nothing.... still....
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 05:21 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by krifenbu
I want to ask if the truck is an automatic or manual transmission.

Thanks.

Kevin
Automatic Kevin. It was also replaced in the last year.
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 05:23 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 97-psd
I understand you are desperately trying to get back on the road, but let's try to isolate the problem first, then replace parts as needed. Replacing suspect parts can make it difficult to find the source. Did you try jumping the solenoid first?
Yes, It will start this way, but thats it....
 
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Old Jul 9, 2016 | 07:08 PM
  #19  
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Ok. Put your foot on the brake and put the shifter in Reverse or Drive and see if it starts there. If it does the MLPS on the transmission is out of adjustment.

Does it have a remote start or an alarm on it that might have a starter interrupt blocking the path from the key to the starter solenoid?

Check to see if the small wire at the starter solenoid on the fender has voltage when the key is in the Start position. Otherwise, take a volt meter to the ignition switch in the column to check to see if it is sending voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position.

Kevin
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 09:56 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by krifenbu
Ok. Put your foot on the brake and put the shifter in Reverse or Drive and see if it starts there. If it does the MLPS on the transmission is out of adjustment.

Does it have a remote start or an alarm on it that might have a starter interrupt blocking the path from the key to the starter solenoid?

Check to see if the small wire at the starter solenoid on the fender has voltage when the key is in the Start position. Otherwise, take a volt meter to the ignition switch in the column to check to see if it is sending voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is in the start position.

Kevin
Will do Kevin.
Do you think the ignition key cylinder could go bad? I wouldn't think it would but....
This is just unreal, it was running just fine when the fuel line blew!!
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 02:48 PM
  #21  
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Does the shifter on the column feel loose? It could be the 2 torx bolts at the bottom of the column by the u-joint that hold the plate on there that is attached to the cable that goes to the transmission. If they are loose then the cable isn't pushing the transmission selector all the way into the right place for the gears.

It could be the lock cylinder, but you could verify that by using the volt meter and seeing if the red/lt blue wire is getting 12 volts when key is in start. I think that is the wire.

Kevin
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 03:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Byrddog
Yes, It will start this way, but thats it....
good deal, at least now we know it will start. Looks like Kevin has got you on the right track for troubleshooting the linkage. Hopefully a little tweaking will get your back on the road
 
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Old Jul 10, 2016 | 04:01 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Byrddog
This is just unreal, it was running just fine when the fuel line blew!!
Its wierd but it happens. Earlier this year i had one of these type of things happen to me. Kevin has got you on the right track.
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 01:15 PM
  #24  
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Still nothing!!!
I guess its time to throw in the towel and take her to the shop!!
Never in my life have I seen anything like this....
Absolutely ridiculous!
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 02:57 PM
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Did you check your cables and connections? Did I waste my time even typing in this thread? Seems like it
 
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Old Jul 12, 2016 | 07:14 PM
  #26  
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If you can change a fuel line, then you should be able to figure this electrical problem out with a little effort.

Do you have a volt meter you can use?

I don't think the radio and stuff would work if the fuse was bad. Next step is ignition switch in column. Not the lock cylinder with the key.

You should be able to see the wires coming out of the ignition switch and be able to test it easily to see if the red/lt blue wire has voltage when the key is in start.

I can only see few scenarios on this. When the fuel line broke the fuel got on the wires and broke the connection to the solenoid on the fender or it got on the battery terminals and they need to be cleaned.

Or my other thought is that you were in a hurry to shut off the truck when you noticed fuel pumping out and you jammed the gear shifter and knocked it out of place.

I could be wrong on the cause, but I know you can figure this out with the help from the guys around here.

Kevin
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:29 PM
  #27  
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Well, Ive checked all the connections and all seem to read that it's getting 12 volts.
I can't seem to find where/how to check the ignition?
 
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Old Jul 18, 2016 | 04:32 PM
  #28  
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All terminals and connections to the batteries have been cleaned and look to be in great shape and getting good connectivity.
Sorry I didn't add that earlier.
 
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Old Jul 19, 2016 | 08:39 AM
  #29  
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Are you able to get a voltage reading on the little wire on the fender solenoid with the key in the start position?
 
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Old Jul 22, 2016 | 05:46 AM
  #30  
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Key cylinder wouldn't have anything to do with it.
Remove the ignition switch down under the dash and actuate it by hand. See if it turns over.
Also on auto equipped trucks, there's a jumper where the clutch switch would be, check that.
 
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