Waterpump replacement
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2016
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Waterpump replacement
It's time to change the waterpump in my 85' 302. Is there any way to prevent the bolts from breaking, and do they always break or just sometimes? I have been thinking about just taking it to a shop but I don't want to get charged an arm and a leg.
If the bolts do break how hard is it to just take the timing cover off and replace that?
If the bolts do break how hard is it to just take the timing cover off and replace that?
FTE Legend
Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Angier, NC
You or the garage you may take it to have a 50/50 chance of something going bad, you never know till get into it.
The way I under stand from another post not long ago when the bolt(s) break that go thru the cover there is no way to get the cover off because the bolt is still in the cover.
So cover cant come off because of the broken bolt and you cant get the broken bolt out so what to do? Bust the cover up to get to the bolt(s) and then get a new cover.
I find that if motors are used all the time (heat/cool cyl) things come apart a little easier.
May want to try and hit the heads of the bolts with a hammer a few times to "shock" the bolt before trying to removing it.
Dave ----
The way I under stand from another post not long ago when the bolt(s) break that go thru the cover there is no way to get the cover off because the bolt is still in the cover.
So cover cant come off because of the broken bolt and you cant get the broken bolt out so what to do? Bust the cover up to get to the bolt(s) and then get a new cover.
I find that if motors are used all the time (heat/cool cyl) things come apart a little easier.
May want to try and hit the heads of the bolts with a hammer a few times to "shock" the bolt before trying to removing it.
Dave ----
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Corrosion in the cover is not uncommon.
There is really no good way to deal with this *after* it's happened.
I went back with stainless bolts and plenty of Loctite PST to keep coolant out of the threads.
There is really no good way to deal with this *after* it's happened.
I went back with stainless bolts and plenty of Loctite PST to keep coolant out of the threads.
Methanoholic
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 6,442
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From: Maine (NorCal Native)
Steel 100% coated with Never-seize (except for sealant area) is the correct technique.
-Enjoy
fh : )_~
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Chrome nor nickel are any more active than iron in this situation.
(don't bother pointing me at a galvanic nobility chart)
The fact that the shank and threads remain smooth allows them to be withdrawn from the corroded timing case.
I have been there and bought the tee shirt too many times.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 1,049
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Penetrating oil like BP blaster, heat, tapping the bolts with a hammer to shock them, repeat. They also have the freeze stuff in a can. I've never tried it but the idea is to heat the metal around the bolt and then blast the bolt with the freezey suff in a can to shock it.
Only problem with lots of heat is you risk damaging the timing cover gasket.
BTW, how old are your timing chain and gears?
Only problem with lots of heat is you risk damaging the timing cover gasket.
BTW, how old are your timing chain and gears?
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Senior User
Joined: May 2016
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I changed my water pump on my 351W fairly recently and didn't have any problem with any of the bolts. Not sure why everyone's so concerned. No special lubricant was used, just an air ratchet and they came right out.
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From: Virginia
If you get one or two that break off and the pump won't come off, I would get a center punch and try to put a dimple in the center of the broken bolt(this step is important) and then take a drill and drill the bolt out to the depth of the waterpump so it will release the pump. Once you get the pump off, you can deal with the rest of the bolt that is stuck in there, either grab it with pliers or continue drilling with the correct size bit and then take a tap and clean it out. If a garage has to do this you can tell it 's going to take some time and labor is not cheap.
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Freshman User
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Thanks for all the input. Timing chain and gears are original with 120k miles. Should I just replace those too. Might as well...my timing cover is leaking a little bit of oil so I've decided to go ahead and change that while I'm in there.
Senior User
Joined: Jun 2010
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I replaced my water pump on an '86 302 a few years ago. No problem I remember getting bolts out. The big headache was pretty much each bolt is different and there are a lot of them. You need a system to keep them straight. I stuck mine in a foam block for safekeeping, if I remember. Also, the water pump bolts go through the brackets of pretty much everything bolted onto the engine: power steering pump, A/C compressor and alternator.
Regarding the timing chain, mine went bad at about 115K. If you're up to it, it might be good to replace it too while everything is off.
Regarding the timing chain, mine went bad at about 115K. If you're up to it, it might be good to replace it too while everything is off.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
P.S. Also check the balancer when you take it off. It may have a deep groove worn in it where the seal rides. If it does they make sleeves that you push over this area to make it smooth again. Even though it's a little bigger, the original seal still works. Putting a new seal over the groove without repairing it usually ends up with a oil leak.
