I just bought an idi 7.3 an its had the clutch master cylinder replaced along with the lines ab slave. Ive checked the push rod bushing cause i know they where. What else should i check for?? Dont wanna get a new clutch unless i am sure that may be the problem. The trans is the zf s 5-42.

 

the push rod has threads for adjusting like a turnbuckle.

 

I'll have to look again I checked to see if it was adjustable an didn't see anything. Is it possible it's non adjustable?

 

It's hydraulic, It is not adjustable ...

You either have a pooched master, a pooched slave, air in the system, broke bell housing.

My bet is Air in the system ... Have fun getting the air out while it's in the truck, it's tough!

I find it way way easier to never separate the master, line, slave, replace as a whole system!
Or bleed them on the bench before installation.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

From my understanding the guy replaced it all as one unit

 

I've learned over the years ... Not to listen to PO's!
Rarely do they tell it like it is/was.

I forgot one other ... Firewall cracking where the Clutch M/C mounts!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

That is true! I did a little messing around with the pedals an got a little more throw out of it but at this point it looks like I may just rebuild the tranny an put in a new clutch (trucks not going anywhere anytime soon) but they have an option of a 11" clutch or 12" clutch not sure which would be the one I need until I get it out

 

Don't ever throw money at parts you don't know need fixing!

IOW, Diagnostics, Diagnostics, Diagnostics until you pin point the issue!
Then and only then do you spend money ... Else you'll spend a lot of money getting no where!

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

i used to grind gears sometimes because the clutch would not fully disengage until my foot was at the floor. but then i found the pedal push rod is adjustable so i just moved the pedal back a little and now all good. not sure if every truck has that but seems like it should. its really nice to adjust the action to suit the feel i like

 

If you adjust the master pushrod, it can block off the reservoir port, and can cause the clutch release bearing to stay in contact with the clutch fingers, causing excessive wear.
There may be air in the system, I would recommend opening the allen bleeder screw a couple turn and let it sit for a few minutes. Make sure the reservoir has plenty of fluid, and it should flush the air out. It has worked for me in the past.

 

I looked while i was under the truck but i didnt see a bleeder screw.. not sure if im just missing it or what..

 

It's not the typical brake type bleeder, It's an Allen screw right next to the line fitting, between the fitting and end.

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Um... At least on my 88, the release bearing is /always/ in contact; the slave cylinder has a spring inside it that puts a decent amount of force on it at all times.
This is why when you pull the slave cylender off the clutch fork, it will extend all the way out, despite having no pressure on the clutch pedal(and you should be able to push it back in by hand, though it is difficult).

 

However, if you don't have the reservoir port open, then as the fluid expands with temperature, there will be more pressure against the fingers, causing more wear, and potentially clutch slippage, causing wear to both the clutch disc and flywheel.

 

That's true.

However.. Back to the original problem, I would say that you can adjust the master cylinder rod to take up any slack in the system. But no more. As long as the master cylinder plunger isn't being pushed down with the clutch pedal all the way up, you are fine. If you managed to put some "pre-load" on it, though...