No spark...
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Senior User
Joined: Nov 2001
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No spark...
Lots of cranky, but no sparky.
100% new wiring.
New condenser, points, plugs, wires, caps. Reused rotor after careful inspection, ignition resister had passed continuity test, but is vintage. Likewise with coil.
Haven't opened things up yet, but suspect it's either a defective condenser, bad coil or points are shorting out. Any suggestions?
Oh; 46-48 59AB in a '40 COE… but still running diver's helmet dizzy.
100% new wiring.
New condenser, points, plugs, wires, caps. Reused rotor after careful inspection, ignition resister had passed continuity test, but is vintage. Likewise with coil.
Haven't opened things up yet, but suspect it's either a defective condenser, bad coil or points are shorting out. Any suggestions?
Oh; 46-48 59AB in a '40 COE… but still running diver's helmet dizzy.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 19,311
Likes: 97
From: Waterloo, Iowa
New condensers today from you know where are almost always bad, install a known good one, preferably manufactured back when they were still in regular use.
If the points are wearing evenly during a tuneup oftentimes the mechanic would leave them versus replacement anyway. Slight manufacturing tolerance in actual capacitance value will affect the wear on the points, so it was considered by some, best to let sleeping dogs lie. A good condenser should last a long time.
If the points are wearing evenly during a tuneup oftentimes the mechanic would leave them versus replacement anyway. Slight manufacturing tolerance in actual capacitance value will affect the wear on the points, so it was considered by some, best to let sleeping dogs lie. A good condenser should last a long time.
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OK. New condenser is a NAPA Echlin, probably 10 yrs old. No idea of age or condition of old one, but truck did run (horribly on horribly old gas) 13 years ago with it.
I think the old points were visually OK, can clean contacts (did have some 'transference'…) & reinstall.
I've seen pics/info on coils that have 'cooked' with the switch left on too long- mine shows zero signs visually of distress.
- - - - -
One more question- with the ignition toggle OFF, should the start button still work??
I think the old points were visually OK, can clean contacts (did have some 'transference'…) & reinstall.
I've seen pics/info on coils that have 'cooked' with the switch left on too long- mine shows zero signs visually of distress.
- - - - -
One more question- with the ignition toggle OFF, should the start button still work??
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 267
Likes: 2
From: Lincoln NE
After having similar issues recently, I packed up my distributor, cap, rotor and coil and sent to Bubba's Hot Rod Shop in Speedway, Indiana (next to the Indianapolis Motor Speedway). When I got it all back, I bolted everything back on, attached all the wiring and it worked perfectly. I highly recommend Bubba's (Jim Linder) to reduce your frustration. The price was very fair, too! And yes, your starter button still works when the ignition toggle is in the off position. The button simply grounds the starter solenoid to activate it.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,209
Likes: 12
From: Black Hills of SD
I always start at the coil + and verify power to it with the key on (and points open) Then verify power to the points. After that, test at coil - while cranking and look for the light to go on and off as the points close and open.
You can ohm out the coil but that isn't a 100% test that the coil is bad, but it could show that it's bad. I don't remember the values exactly but it should probably be 3 ohms or less across the primary (2 small terminals) and probably around 4000 ohms on the secondary. You will need the coil disconnected to test.
You can ohm out the coil but that isn't a 100% test that the coil is bad, but it could show that it's bad. I don't remember the values exactly but it should probably be 3 ohms or less across the primary (2 small terminals) and probably around 4000 ohms on the secondary. You will need the coil disconnected to test.
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