No start. Emergency.
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No start. Emergency.
My 85 f250 has been down for a week now.
I thought it was my distributer, didn't have spark and everything else in the ignition system is new or within the last six months.
It's a 300 i6 factory everything.
My fuzes are good new ignition coil distributor spark plugs rotor and cap and wires are around 4-5 months old. New starter and three diff new icm/tfi.
I got it so it'll kick alittle bit, like spin the starter faster, but no power.
I already pulled the dizzy found tdc tried running it nothing, so I found tdc again, found out it was 180 off.(on the 3 instead of 1)
Rotated plugged and no start still.
The shop I'm in working in it closes in an hour and a half. And I'm busy with duty until sat and this is my driver.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also the fuel pump shoots copious amounts if fuel and the filter is clean.
It back fired pretty bad the other week for no reason after a stall, then it died while idling next to my friend in a parking lot and wouldn't start, troubleshooter, no spark and then it came here.
I thought it was my distributer, didn't have spark and everything else in the ignition system is new or within the last six months.
It's a 300 i6 factory everything.
My fuzes are good new ignition coil distributor spark plugs rotor and cap and wires are around 4-5 months old. New starter and three diff new icm/tfi.
I got it so it'll kick alittle bit, like spin the starter faster, but no power.
I already pulled the dizzy found tdc tried running it nothing, so I found tdc again, found out it was 180 off.(on the 3 instead of 1)
Rotated plugged and no start still.
The shop I'm in working in it closes in an hour and a half. And I'm busy with duty until sat and this is my driver.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also the fuel pump shoots copious amounts if fuel and the filter is clean.
It back fired pretty bad the other week for no reason after a stall, then it died while idling next to my friend in a parking lot and wouldn't start, troubleshooter, no spark and then it came here.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
Did you try disconnecting the spout or testing the ECM like I suggested in one of your other "truck won't start" threads?
Have you done a compression and leakdown test like Gary suggested?
Have you done a compression and leakdown test like Gary suggested?
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From: Virginia
Yes, check for power on the + side of the coil. Then check for a blinking power on the negative of the coil when you crank it over. This is best done with a testlight or a old time meter with a needle, but you might see a digital meter flicker some. If the voltage on the negative of the coil is blinking on and off, that means the ignition is doing it's job and turning the coil on and off.
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If the coil is operating like said above by franklin and you still don't have clean spark to the plugs your problem lies between the cap and rotor plugs and wires. Also just check for spark out of the coil wire on the distributor end
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i did get it running, but now this came up.
i dont know what a spout is....so no i didnt.
i will check the voltage, however we put a spark tester to the plug wire and had a big bright red spark.
i will check the voltage of the coil tomorrow
i dont know what a spout is....so no i didnt.
i will check the voltage, however we put a spark tester to the plug wire and had a big bright red spark.
i will check the voltage of the coil tomorrow
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pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
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From: EXTREME southwest CT
And by unplugging it, it reverts spark control to the -NEW- TFI distributor.
Cutting the computer out of the equation. (if faulty)
Cutting the computer out of the equation. (if faulty)
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From: Virginia
Follow all the wires leaving the distributor TFI module. As you follow them along you will find one that leaves the group and has a weird jumper thing in the wire. This is the spout connector. When you pull this out, it takes the timing control away from the computer so you can use a light and twist the dist around till you get it set to what the sticker on the radiator says. When you are done, you plug the spout back in and that gives it back to the computer so it can do it's thing.
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There's a blue spark, I just checked.
The red spark was with a spark tester plugged into the wire.
It didn't really make a difference that I saw.
I turned the tfi all the way back, like over my oil filter and she ran, I bet if I kept going back she would smooth out, but my spark plug wires were at their max.
I feel like that isn't safe, how do I fix that?
The red spark was with a spark tester plugged into the wire.
It didn't really make a difference that I saw.
I turned the tfi all the way back, like over my oil filter and she ran, I bet if I kept going back she would smooth out, but my spark plug wires were at their max.
I feel like that isn't safe, how do I fix that?