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That was part of my thinking and using the bulletproof diesel oil cooler relocation kit I could splice in a high flow coolant filter and it could be easily back flushed
Plus it's easy to change
But the air to oil cooler is pretty close to the same money IIRC
I'm just concerned the oil may stay little cool in winter here iirc they regulate at 180* EOT THERMOSTATE
I am thinking of going to the BPD cooler too (the AIR/OIL model) .............you wouldn't need to worry about backflushing if the water-to-oil cooler was replaced with the air-to-oil cooler.
Coolant service would then be no different than any other engine nor would it be critical.
I will also get the optional "Vernatherm" . Oil thermostats are NOT new by any stretch of the imagination. They have been used for many many years in aircraft engines of all sizes, in temps down to WELL below zero!
True, if you are considering BPD is not much more for the air oil cooler. If you're concerned about oil temp in the winter get the thermostat. I did not get a thermostat and just shoved cardboard behind my grill and it worked fine.
As far as the install goes, it's a ton of stuff and takes a long time. But it's not too difficult. The kit is put together really well.
Benny how ever you end up fixing the "problem" unless you do something
about that radiator and heater core your going to still have a compromised
cooling system. Once you have all that white fluff out the problem will be
gone with it. Then it becomes a question of do you want to spend all that
money still?
Instead of messing around with it you might be better off just tossing the
radiator and a new one. I would never use one from Mishimoto but one from
Ford or BPD along wit ha new heater core and I think you may be shocked about
how much time you gained back. My thinking on that is from the fact that you
recovered some ∆ headroom with the back flushing. So that is telling me that
the crud is still not hard set in the new cooler.
The only odd thing I would do in your case would be a full flow and not a by-pass
coolant filter to catch any thing you miss.
BTW I have an idea for a back flush system that you could use to try and clear
the crud from the radiator. You would need a compressor for air injection and
a small pool pump to reverse flow the radiator. In the port coming from the pump
to the bottom of the radiator you need to install a venture or just a "T" and a pressure
gauge. I would not go over 18 PSI and the last two things. A large plastic barrel
I think you could use metal also if you want to try and heat the water and the last thing
some type of "Y" strainer so you can catch the crud and remove it every few passes.
You can get these with different grades of strainers so that if you want you can get
the really fine crud out and you can use the blow-down port to clear it. Place a pressure
guage on each side of the "Y" and when the ∆ starts to climb and load the pump
just open the blow-down and clear the strainer and run some more.
The only other thing I would add to it would be a by-pass valve to keep the pressure
down to a safe level. You don't want to pop the seals or the end caps on the radiator.
If you want I can draw what I am thinking about with both the by-pass and a heater.
The key to using a flush chemical with this setup is what will dissolve the stuff.
The only really hard think I can think of is the target temp of 185º
Might be worth a call to Fleetguard and seeing if cooler for a longer
period of time can be used.
Anyway long rambling thoughts on this. Let me know.
Original cooler lasted 150k with Ford gold and now have 50k on the new cooler running Cat ELC coolant. Deltas run 10-12* towing or empty and I don't need to carry cardboard to warm the engine in cold weather.
How about no delta at all, truck stays at 190 ALL THE TIME even when is 108F outside. I don't think using cardboard to block air is a bad thing, big rigs use cold fronts - same idea just cheaper. Maybe next year I'll upgrade to one with teeth...
How about no delta at all, truck stays at 190 ALL THE TIME even when is 108F outside. I don't think using cardboard to block air is a bad thing, big rigs use cold fronts - same idea just cheaper. Maybe next year I'll upgrade to one with teeth...
Hey Bako Billbot, Have you tried pulling Grocer Grade (CA 33/166 S/W) out of Maricopa, I-5 southbound Or even East on 58 to Tehachiscratchi with a big load on the back in 100+ temps?
What sort of EOT & ECT & EGT did you see then?AND, did you happen to notice what temp the fan started roaring?
I don't normally tow either of those grades. I can tell you before I did my oil cooler, driving up to Tehachapi with a delta of 10-12 my EOT would reach around 218 before the fan came on and now it does not come on at all. This was unloaded and in the early morning, maybe 70 degrees outside.
Going up the 5 this past weekend 8k loaded 100 degrees outside:
EOT 235
ECT 220
TFT 200
EGT 1100
I was doing 50 all the way up and the fan was roaring. No land speed record and I could push a little harder but that is about as high as I like to go with my temps towing.
Hope I did not mislead you, my prior post was around town unloaded and i noticed those temps to be as high as 195, not the 190 originally posted. Before switching oil coolers, temps were low 200s and there was a delta around town and the fan came on sometimes.
When talking to BPD before I bought their cooler, I was told it would not tow cooler than stock. Honestly when towing the temps are very close. Unloaded my truck runs cooler with the BPD cooler.
I don't normally tow either of those grades. I can tell you before I did my oil cooler, driving up to Tehachapi with a delta of 10-12 my EOT would reach around 218 before the fan came on and now it does not come on at all. This was unloaded and in the early morning, maybe 70 degrees outside.
Going up the 5 this past weekend 8k loaded 100 degrees outside:
EOT 235
ECT 220
TFT 200
EGT 1100
I was doing 50 all the way up and the fan was roaring. No land speed record and I could push a little harder but that is about as high as I like to go with my temps towing.
Hope I did not mislead you, my prior post was around town unloaded and i noticed those temps to be as high as 195, not the 190 originally posted. Before switching oil coolers, temps were low 200s and there was a delta around town and the fan came on sometimes.
When talking to BPD before I bought their cooler, I was told it would not tow cooler than stock. Honestly when towing the temps are very close. Unloaded my truck runs cooler with the BPD cooler.
BILLB, what are the advantages to that bpd oil cooler then if not runs cooler towing, is it just no clogging up to replace the oem cooler?
BILLB, what are the advantages to that bpd oil cooler then if not runs cooler towing, is it just no clogging up to replace the oem cooler?
I think I might be able to answer that.
1. You NEVER have to replace it,
2. You never again have to do "double-secret-special-sauce" multiple coolant flushes
(or worry about flushing out oil in the coolant due to a leaking oil cooler)
3. It never clogs
And,
4. It never causes coolant loss due to the EGR cooler turning into a "Steam Generator" ....(Assuming one is still installed)
ALSO, My apologies to Blade35 for my original thread hijack.
(although I initially thought he was asking about the Air to oil cooler from BPD as one of the options) , he was clearly talking about BPD's coolant-oil remote cooler kit!
Couldn't it get nailed by a rock or other projectile tootling down the highway, puncture a tube and start leaking oil? Also fins could get plugged up with bugs, junk, etc. OEM Cooler will never have those problems. Just sayin...
Interesting, my numbers towing about 8k lb up the CA168 grade (8-miles @ 6%) in 100+ heat are almost identical with the OEM oil cooler. Guess BPD was right!
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