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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

Torque, Valve spring compressor

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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 12:50 AM
  #16  
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JEFFFAFA
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
Just got it! Thanks Jeffafa
You're welcome Buddy.
Is there a ridge in the cylinder bores at the very top? If so then you need it bored and oversize pistons and rings. If not then 2X Rich on the hone job.



If you buy this tool also, put your drill on a medium speed. Oil the cylinders down with a thin layer of engine oil. Set the diameter of the hone's stones so they aren't too tight in the bores. While spinning the hone in the bores with the drill move it up and down medium fast. You want to only remove the rust, get the full cylinder top to bottom, and put a criss cross pattern in the bore.


Depending on what the oil pressure was before tear down and mileage on the engine, You might be doing main and cam bearings along with the rods and rings. I say do it Once.....and never look back. People are usually glad they did.
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 07:18 AM
  #17  
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Originally Posted by 72CC428
Should I go with the size of the bearings in it?
Geez, I'd like to say yes but only you have to be the judge of that.

Plastic gauge won't tell you if it out of round. But you need a Mic to check for out of roundness.

Even a cheap one can get the job done tho.

If the engine was making any knocking sounds while last was running then that's a yes if it was run like that for very long then for sure crank will need turning.
Orich
 
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Old Jul 3, 2016 | 09:32 PM
  #18  
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When you get all the carbon out of the valves & in the guides replace them back in the correct valve guide hole in where it came out of. Then rock the stem side to side plus turn it to see if valve & it's guide are warn & wobble have to much clearance will suck some oil. Plus if the heads don't have harden seats it's a waste of time not getting the done, as you'll just have to do it not long after putting back together as the gas is getting worse as e85 is still being pushed.

It's just one think not to come back & kick ya in the azz and pull it apart again..
Orich
 
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Old Jul 4, 2016 | 11:19 PM
  #19  
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How can I tell if the seats are hardened? The valves and the seats look really good.

The engine ran like a sewing machine when I parked her. She used a little oil but I felt that considering how bad the carb was she did okay. I know the cylinders are okay. They aren't scored, just some marring and the rust from sitting.

Originally Posted by orich
When you get all the carbon out of the valves & in the guides replace them back in the correct valve guide hole in where it came out of. Then rock the stem side to side plus turn it to see if valve & it's guide are warn & wobble have to much clearance will suck some oil. Plus if the heads don't have harden seats it's a waste of time not getting the done, as you'll just have to do it not long after putting back together as the gas is getting worse as e85 is still being pushed.

It's just one think not to come back & kick ya in the azz and pull it apart again..
Orich
 
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Old Jul 5, 2016 | 07:55 AM
  #20  
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From: **** hole San Jose ca.
Harden seats you'll see a circular line in the head just outside the valve that was pressed into the all exh seats.

Where as the intakes won't have any unless they were needed to rebuild the intake seat itself. But have seen heads that had them. Just the exh. seats will get burn out since they let out the hot gases.

The cast iron is softer then forged machined steel.
Orich
 
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