Hey guys, I have a couple of questions.

Anyone know the Torque spec for the bolts that hold the cover on the oil pump for an FE?? I looked and all I could find was the specs for the bolts to the block for mounting the pump.

I want to take the valves out and check the seats . I don't want to but the tool. Any ideas?

 

Snuggly tight.

They're 1/4" if I remember right. A 1/4-20 bolt has a maximum torque of 12ft-lbs dry. 9 lubed. (Grade 8 bolt)

 

Universal Overhead Valve Spring Compressor

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/p...ing+compressor

Weren't this expensive when I bought mine...
KD Tools Valve Spring Compressor for Overhead KDT383: Advance Auto Parts

Performance Tool Valve Spring Compressor Set, Model# W89409 | Specialty Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

Might check out parts stores loaner program..

 

I was looking for the " C " STYLE. When I asked a guy at Autozone he said I needed a different one for Ford engines. It looked like this.

http://www.tooltopia.com/_img/OTC/OTC7928.jpg

He told me the one pictured first above was for overhead cams

Advanced Auto here said they don't do loaners. NAPA either.

 

You will prolly end up in trouble if you do things the "cheap way out". Why take the oil pump cover off? Just buy a new Quality oil pump! It is the heart of the oiling system in your engine. They are cheap.
And on the valve spring compressor, Why not buy one ? ONLY $17.99 with no shipping on EBAY!


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Details about 8" Universal Adjustable Valve Spring Compressor Automotive Engine Repair Tool

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There's not much to look at inside of the oil pump. A couple of gears and that's about it! If you have oil pressure, then it's working. If you question that it's working correctly, then buy a replacement. A high volume one is a better value.

 

http://www.tooltopia.com/_img/OTC/OTC7928.jpg

Parts store guy is an idiot. That is for a 4.6 Overhead cam. Have 2 of those. For replacing the valve seals with engine in vehicle.
A C-clamp style works best with our vehicles, as shown above, by Jeff. That's a good deal.

 

Just got it! Thanks Jeffafa

 

Many auto parts stores loan them out with a deposit and with full refund.
Orich

 

Problem with that is....I borrowed a ball joint press set from a local parts store. Liked it so much that I bought it.
We can't have too many tools, can we???

 

Already tried that route. I just bought one. Turns out my valves, guides and seals are all in good shape.

My issues are with the cylinders. Every one has some kind of marring and rust? Scratching my head on that. Could that really be from sitting for almost two years w/o being cranked?


I am keeping my fingers crossed and hoping a hone job and new rings (if needed) will do the trick. Doing a rebuild with the block in the chassis is not something I want to contemplate. Although it would be an interesting challenge.

 

Cold weather climate don't take long to get the rust started in the shinny dry cylinders.
Just going through the daily heat cycles of hot & cold subzero nights an so on..

Most all engines I've seen running after sitting not running for a few yrs smoke some with with a lot of blow by..
New rings & rod bearings and honing is a must to seat to rings other wise you'll be sorry you did not hone them..
Orich

 

Rod bearings? Can I just get a set using plasti-gauge measurements?

 

Yeah as long as it's not scored to bad maybe. Most likely you can just put in fresh bearing an good to go, the size is stamped on the back side of each insert bearing half.

 

Should I go with the size of the bearings in it?