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I have a warped front left disk brake rotor. When I jacked the truck up and turned the wheel by hand, I could hear it rub intermittently as it went around. When I tried this on the right side it was smooth all the way around, so I'm pretty sure it's just the left that's warped. It jumps pretty bad when I brake.
I haven't checked anything on the back. It's a lot harder to turn the wheels with the limited slip differential.
So I'm wondering if it's OK to just replace the left rotor. While I have it apart, I'll check and see how much pad I have left.
Unfortunately no, you should always do your brake work equally to both sides so the braking forces are equal. You don't want the truck to be pulling under braking because one side has better grip than the other.
I always look at the brakes and steering to be the most important parts of a vehicle, especially for my kids. I figure if they can steer and stop it I can always make the motor run later. For the minimal cost of another rotor and good pads compared to what the whole truck costs, put the best brake parts on it you can find.
That does make sense, yes. I've always replaced pads on vehicles on both sides. This is the first time I've ever had to replace a rotor. I was debating on whether to replace the pads. I haven't looked at them in a while, but the last time I did I had plenty of pad left. However, pads are usually pretty inexpensive compared to the rest.
Have you considered having the rotors turned? There is usually enough thickness to resurface the rotors and generally a lot cheaper specially on the front. I would contact the NAPA sotre you brother (i think you said brother) and ask how much to resurface the rotors cost verses replacing them. Since you have them off, repack the wheel bearings and new front seals.
You can replace just one rotor. The only difference in the long run is that you'll have two different lifetimes. And one wide will weigh slightly different from the other (so do your tires).
Another option is just take the rotor to a good auto machine shop and have it turned. You could do that with both rotors and then then would be the "same".
Now be sure to bed the pads after you get the rotors turned (see why)
Note: many times warped rotors are not warped. If you check it with a dial gauge for run-out, you'll see if its warped. Which you sort of have done by listening to the changing drag sound from the pad. BUT many "warped" rotors, which we feel due to shudder in the steering under braking or shudder in the vehicle, is due to deposition of pad material from a long period of standing on the brakes while stopped with hot rotors. This seems (IMO) to happen more when you don't bed the pads.
How to bed the pads in. Drive your vehicle and do about 10-20 moderate to mod/hard stops, but DON'T stop completely. A big shopping mall parking lot is a good place to do laps. Then go drive without stopping (on the freeway?) for 20-30 minutes and let the brakes cool. Usually its pretty hard, unless you are on a race track, to not stop completely when doing this, but give it your best shot.
Are there different size rotors on a 2004? I just got off the phone with the parts house and his computer is showing a 13" or a 14.5" depending on the gear ratio.
Note: many times warped rotors are not warped. If you check it with a dial gauge for run-out, you'll see if its warped. Which you sort of have done by listening to the changing drag sound from the pad. BUT many "warped" rotors, which we feel due to shudder in the steering under braking or shudder in the vehicle, is due to deposition of pad material from a long period of standing on the brakes while stopped with hot rotors. This seems (IMO) to happen more when you don't bed the pads.
How to bed the pads in. Drive your vehicle and do about 10-20 moderate to mod/hard stops, but DON'T stop completely. A big shopping mall parking lot is a good place to do laps. Then go drive without stopping (on the freeway?) for 20-30 minutes and let the brakes cool. Usually its pretty hard, unless you are on a race track, to not stop completely when doing this, but give it your best shot.
While I personally subscribe to the "both sides at once" theory in regards to brake work (mainly because it's my own vehicle and I'm a penny of prevention, pound of cure guy), this ^^^ is worth highlighting.
Measuring brake rotor runout is an often overlooked part of the DIY brake repair process. I'm not even talking about shimming the rotor or getting it cut on the truck, just spending a few more minutes cleaning the flange and inside of the rotor better pays off.
Dial gauges are not used all that often for most non-mechanics so it can be difficult to justify the cost, but if you're committed to doing your own brake and bearing work they're worth it.
I'm pretty sure at this point I'm just going to do both sides and pads. I've got 117k on the original brakes. While I do have a limited income, I'm not coming up with terribly significant costs to do it. I'm going to have to take the wheel off and measure the disk to make sure I get the right one, and I'll inspect the rotor when I do that.
Edit: I'm also preparing to take a 2500 mile round trip to Colorado to pick up a 29' 5th wheel. Dad says he believes it weighs about 8,000 pounds, so stopping is going to be important.
For people doing their own work, it's often cheaper to replace the rotors instead of paying someone to turn them. That's been my experience. Seems like lots of shops don't bother turns rotors any more either.
If it was me, I'd do both sides, rotors and pads. Best of luck David.
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