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I have a 1999 Ford Ranger XLT 4X4. I started to hear the high pitch squeal of, i assume, is the brake pad indicators. I took it to a place that had a free brake diagnostic and they told me I needed front brake pads and rotors. They also suggested cleaning and flushing the rest of the brake system. All for $447. If I only did the pads and rotors it would be $340. Does this sound right? I did not expect it to be so much.
The guy at the shop told me that I had at least 1000 miles left on the brake pads which made me wonder if the rotors were bad enough to replace. I may be mistaken but I thought that the rotors got bad when you ran all the way through the pads and did not replace soon enough.
I had been considering replacing the brake pads myself. I would consider myself pretty mechanically inclinded but have little to no experience with this. My first question is, How would I know if I REALLY need to replace the rotors? And if I don't, should I attempt to replace the pads myself? If the rotors are a little off/warped and I just replaced the pads what would happen?
Any advice or help on this would be greatly appreciated.
Brake jobs are the biggest money maker in a mechanic's book. The parts are relatively cheap, and the job is easy compared to the labor hours that you can charge.
Disc brake pads are a snap to replace overall. If you want instructions, I would pick up the Haynes or other service manual, otherwise search the threads or we can give you some step by steps.
The way to tell if you need rotors is by calipering them. I take mine to a brake/machine shop that will measure them to tell me if they can turn them and leave enough rotor for it to be in spec. They turn them for $10 a rotor. If you have a 1000k left on the pads, then they haven't started scraping (it sounds to me), therefore the rotors should not be grooved or anything. Warping is a possibility, but have you felt any shimmies when braking hard? Best bet is to take the rotors to a place that can turn them on the lathe for you while you replace the pads.
As for the system flush, (I am in need of one of them) that should be cheap on its own since you don't have to take anything off (unless you are rebuilding the calipers as well).
Originally posted by raj5021 They quoted me at about $100 to flush the system. If my rotors were warped a little would that have any adverse effect if I just replaced the pads?
Thanks alot for the info and the reply.
The adverse effects of having bad (warped or grooved rotors) is weaker braking and shortened pad life. The rotors aren't even that hard to change if you are doing the the pads. It's just another two bolts on each side. It is usually recommended to have the rotors turned when you replace the pads anyway, so you should technically take them off in any case. I understand that the cost could be prohibitive, but rotors aren't even that much if you buy them alone.
Years ago I had an old clunker of a Mazda that I used when I needed to haul something. I kept a protective coat of dirt on it at all times and did not want to spend money on it. When the pads wore out I found the rotors were too scored to turn so I just bought a set of good pads with a lifetime warranty. I would drive it till the pads wore out (surprised how long they lasted), then I'd take them back for a new set - did that till I sold the truck.
Dono
I just did my pads, the stock one have small metal scrapers that make noise before you do any damage to the rotors so I bet thats what your hearing. Took me about 45 minutes to do both sides, about 35$ for high quality pads.
The nice guys over at Pep Boys hooked me up with some $39 pads and I bought a Haynes manual for $10 on sale. I am going to give it a try and see how it goes. Much better than $447.
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