I had to look at the T&D web site to understand how the oil goes from the push rod to the rocker shaft so now I understand it. Hope you never have any problems it says they only have one left..

 

I am hard to confuse, since that was my normal state. I think my oiling problem is partly because I put a high flow pump on and it is flooding the heads. Using a cordless drill on the oil pump drive shaft I could fill the heads when the engine was being assembled in about 20 seconds. Now it was cold oil, so it didn't flow back down very fast, but I also wasn't turning 5,000 rpm.

Had I not got the strongly worded recommendation to crank the initial timing up to 18 I'd still be struggling with 6 inches of vacuum. ****ty here today, tomorrow looks nice, so I'll start it, warm it up, and try 20 degrees, then see how it starts. If I like it I'll leave it and sort out the oiling, and pull apart the dizzy.

 

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Very nice engine. Making me feel I need to start over. BTW had to lose the tins, can't use them with the T&D setup.

I get the point about not being able to "fill" the heads, but by the time the oil wants to flow back down the pushrod holes through the intake and then down into the lifter valley. I am concerned about all that oil splashing around and turning to mist, and that there won't be much oil in the pan.

I'll attach a video of it at 20 degrees advanced - today I started it and the "timing drift" demon is back, it was down under 16 degrees when I started it and warmed it up. Pushed it to 20 degrees, got the vacuum back up from 6 to 10, locked it down and checked total timing as best I could by myself. It seemed to stop growing at around 35 degrees. I drove it for a few minutes and came band and stopped it and started it a few times. Video is attached but the first time I shut it down, and the first time on the video (so twice in total) it kicked the engine backwards on shut down, and took a few revolutions to start. If it didn't kick backwards it started right away.

 

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I may take you up on that. I've been messing with other stuff and never did do much to get mine dialed in right. I maybe have 500 mi on it now and it's for sure a decent running motor that doesn't run to its potential.

 

You made 5 posts... One of them "showing off" that you can do it your way...
You're puffing your chest up as much as any one else trying to give help.
There are plenty of ways to accomplish the same thing. If you don't feel like sharing your info, move along. I didn't really see that krewat was bashing you. There is sibling rivalry going on is all I see. It's like Holley vs edelbrock going on.
Give it a rest guys, help the guy out.

 

I am only relating my own personal experiences with high compression motors, bad idle vacuum, and trying to come up with ways to make it all work together without dieseling or roasting the starter. 20 degrees initial was too much to deal with on a regular basis. As for carb tuning I can only do that while driving it, so I am not even going to touch that unless there are issues I can give pointers on.

yellowtruck, sorry to disrupt your thread. I'll clean it up if you want.

 

Haven't had much time to get under the hood when the weather cooperated, but to update you all - they are Morel lifters, they do have oil passages at the top, it does oil up the pushrods, and I took the covers and rockers off last week and pulled the pushrods.

Pushrods look fine with a little bit of rubbing (went with thick ones), all the lifters look good, and to my surprise the bottoms of the rocker covers were pretty dry. I expected them to be soaked in oil. I decided not to restrict the oil any more for the moment and focus on getting the lifter preload where it doesn't hang valves or work loose and tick.

I've pulled the carb again and closed down the primary and secondary valves a hair. Will see how this plays to vacuum and run-on in the next few days.

 

yellow truck, I'm hopefully starting my build on a prison break with a few differences, flat tappet cam and Harlen Sharp rockers and the dreaded big E parts. Barry seems to think it should push right at 500 hp at the crank. I went with a stock oil pump because of the nightmares I have heard about the high volume pumps. Please tell me where you got the traction bars.

 

Classic Traction Bar 1998 & up Ford Ranger Anti Wrap

I have noticed an improvement, but I can't really hard launch it until the clutch is broken in. I don't think I needed the high volume pump. Probably only required for racing applications. I almost get too much pressure.

 

Time for another update. Had a lot of stuff happen this year but managed to get some wrenching time.

Based on some behaviour I decided the cam may be retarded compared to the cam card, so I took the front off the motor and picked up a dial indicator and some other tools. Sure enough it was about 5 degrees retarded, so I moved the Ford Racing timing set ahead to the 8 degree advanced keyway so it is now about 3-4 degrees advanced. This required checking the valve to piston clearances as the valve opened approaching TDC, so I had to pick up some tools to remove the valve spring and retainer.

I had asked a local shop I've used in the past to do some work on the carb because I just didn't have the time, and I needed to get it a little more drivable so I could put some miles on it. I didn't like what they did (won't use them again) and took the carb back to near factory.

I also had doubts about my old Autolite distributor, and the MSD Ready to Run died again. The first time it ran for 12 minutes, sent it back, they gave me the craziest series of conflicting stories and eventually claimed there was nothing wrong with it. Put it back and it ran for about 40 minutes before it died.

I'll be returning it for a refund, and I bought a new Duraspark from Faron Rhoads, and so far it is the charm.

Put it all back together and I must say it is running pretty well. I put a vacuum gauge in the cab and I picked up a wide-band O2 sensor so I can get some air/fuel numbers and try to get the carb a little better dialed in.

Sadly, almost time to put her away for the winter.

 

Glad to hear you're getting somewhere