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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 09:44 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by 72CC428
You'd be surprised what some soaking in PB Blaster or other penetrating oil can do. Take 65's advice and invest in doing this and then have the block checked once you get everything out of it. Don't toss anything until you can confirm it's useless. I've saved myself a decent amount of money learning that from others.
Thank you was looking into hot tanking it but I think I'll do 65's advice.
 
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Old Jun 15, 2016 | 10:26 PM
  #17  
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PB Blaster actually works better for your situation...better than WD 40. BTW, the cam and cam bearings might not be good anymore, but with the custom cams available today you might want a little different cam anyway...especially if you go with a stroker kit. Definitely have the block and heads completely checked before buying parts for it. Most importantly, have fun. When it stops being fun just take a break from it.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2016 | 12:51 PM
  #18  
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So I was looking into the vin and info tag, when I was decoding the vin there is a letterr that I can't seem to find info for.

The vin is F25YRP30443:

I understand F25 is for F250 2wd
Y is 360cid
R is San Jose,CA
But what is the "P" for?

I know it's a camper special but I find Sport, SuperSport,Ranger and Ranger XLTs I'd like to find out so I buy the correct parts to restore it as best as I can.
 
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Old Jun 30, 2016 | 12:57 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Grandpas72
So I was looking into the vin and info tag, when I was decoding the vin there is a letterr that I can't seem to find info for.

The vin is F25YRP30443:

I understand F25 is for F250 2wd
Y is 360cid
R is San Jose,CA
But what is the "P" for?

I know it's a camper special but I find Sport, SuperSport,Ranger and Ranger XLTs I'd like to find out so I buy the correct parts to restore it as best as I can.
Consecutive unit number.

Decoding Your 1972 Ford Truck VIN - FORDification.com
 
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Old Jun 30, 2016 | 01:11 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by ultraranger
May 1972 cool thank you!
 
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Old Jul 1, 2016 | 02:20 AM
  #21  
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Buy some PB Baster and a plastic bottle of anti-seize. You will use them on almost every nut and bolt you touch on your truck.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 07:17 AM
  #22  
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Nice truck ... happy to see you restoring Grandpas ride. Love the screen name !! I would soak the block in diesel and let it sit, it will break free and once apart the mains and everything else can be line bored. Wish my truck had the OE engine but it don't ... trying to preserve all I can.

Cheers and good luck with the build.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 12:48 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Grandpas77
Nice truck ... happy to see you restoring Grandpas ride. Love the screen name !! I would soak the block in diesel and let it sit, it will break free and once apart the mains and everything else can be line bored. Wish my truck had the OE engine but it don't ... trying to preserve all I can.

Cheers and good luck with the build.
LOL, I was reading this and I got to your post and thought, this guy has lost it. LOL Then had to go and recheck the OP's name.
 
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Old Nov 19, 2016 | 02:19 PM
  #24  
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A 50/50 mix of acetone and ATF works better than PB Blaster or WD-40.
 
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Old Nov 20, 2016 | 01:36 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Grandpas77
Nice truck ... happy to see you restoring Grandpas ride. Love the screen name !! I would soak the block in diesel and let it sit, it will break free and once apart the mains and everything else can be line bored. Wish my truck had the OE engine but it don't ... trying to preserve all I can.

Cheers and good luck with the build.
Thank you Grandpas77

I haven't gotten any where lately with work being so slow. Hope to get a good tax return and get engine running again with some fresh parts.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 04:04 AM
  #26  
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While waiting for money, you'll have time to make a plan of what you want for a final outcome. Then you can research parts needed, and from where. Also research how to do the tasks! Ultraranger mentioned once that he bought his parts a few at a time, to keep from breaking the bank. The used ones he cleaned and painted. That way they were ready when he had the money and time to start and complete that project. I've tried to do the same. Cleaning and preping the parts takes me the longer than installing them. Just take your time and stick to your plan.
 
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Old Nov 21, 2016 | 08:11 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Grandpas72
Thank you Grandpas77

I haven't gotten any where lately with work being so slow. Hope to get a good tax return and get engine running again with some fresh parts.
I know the feeling ... I have been selling off old projects that will never be finished and probably have shares in RockAuto and others
 
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Old Nov 23, 2016 | 11:24 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by GaryKip
While waiting for money, you'll have time to make a plan of what you want for a final outcome. Then you can research parts needed, and from where. Also research how to do the tasks! Ultraranger mentioned once that he bought his parts a few at a time, to keep from breaking the bank. The used ones he cleaned and painted. That way they were ready when he had the money and time to start and complete that project. I've tried to do the same. Cleaning and preping the parts takes me the longer than installing them. Just take your time and stick to your plan.

I have the truck sitting in employee parking lot at work. My plan was to find a decent motor throw in and get truck moving under its own power so i can bring it in and do brakes, suspension, etc work to it while i was rebuilding original motor. With work being so slow right now its just been sitting in the lot and engine block sitting next to my tool box.

I dont ever plan to get rid of truck and hope to have it running and looking good again by end of summer next year.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 12:13 AM
  #29  
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Any affordable Engine Rebuild kits you all can recommend? Also looking for a 390 rotating assembly if anyone has any parts laying around.
 
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Old Dec 13, 2016 | 02:33 AM
  #30  
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Problem is, ya get what ya pay for. Gaskets, for example, are one thing that I wouldn't skimp on. Buy the best. All things being equal, a cheaper kit means they had to have cut corners somewhere. Overseas parts aren't worth using if they didn't use the right materials or properly harden or heat treat parts. It won't seem like ya saved any money if ya hafta tear deep back into something and replace. Read everything possible in the manuals on procedures and techniques, everything with engines and mechanical stuff is like painting - spend 90% prep and setup, and 10% actually doing the task. It's that attention to detail that makes the difference.
 
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