These look great, Gary, thanks! Better than the almost-too-dark ones I sent you! (I just now compared to the zipfile I sent ya.)

I purposely try to avoid using the flash as the glare in the resulting pictures can sometimes be really annoying.

 

Welcome. Yes, I had to edit each of the pics: change dynamic range, crop, straighten, and convert to black and white. Gonna have to get you a scanner.

 

I'm back. Finally found time to get into the workshop.

I followed throughout test procedure and ended up at step b9 12v battery power fault isolation.
Result being a 13v.
So I either have a short to ground or an open vpwr circuit from eec power relay to processor connector.
I tested pins 37 and 57
Pin 37 was 13v
Pin 57 was 0.9 volts

I also tested pins 40 and 60 (power ground)
These both read 13v

So my belief is ive got a short to ground somewhere... Is this correct?

 

Pin 40; from pin 40 to battery ground - you get 13vdc ? Is this with the connector attached to the computer and the key off?

I would disconnect your battery, unplug the connector, reconnect battery, check pins 40 & 60 on the connector for power (pin to ground). if no power , check each pin for continuity to ground (pin to battery ground).

 

Thankyou
I will try just that.

Sadly I live a little way away from where truck is stored so only get down to work on it once a week or so

 

Well after testing the loom end to end at every connector. all was as the diagrams stated.
As last resort I decided to try and remove the immobiliser incase this was an issue.
Just before I started removing it. I decided to have one last try. (drivers door shut as I was leaning in from passengers side at the time)
Would you believe it. Fuel pump fired right up at turn of the key.
I have now disconnected the p/s door switch and all is working as should. Talk about confusing.

Just for info The immobiliser is a micro scan m1600
Transponder type immobiliser.

Thanks again for all the information and help. Its very much appreciated
Sam

 

So, it was a user-added, third-party thing (and/or its connections) probably spliced into a very important circuit in a haphazard fashion... forgive my ignorance, I googled a bit but didn't come up with any conclusive... daphuque is a Microscan m1600 immobiliser? Never heard of such a thing, kinda sounds like a tazer the cops would use to control rowdy crowds and criminals.

 

Yes this was added long before my ownership. And the install is little to be desired. Thinking I will remove it completely for peace of mind. Don't want it doing silly things while I'm out somewhere.

It sure does sound like a device from an 80s sci-fi movie.

 

What is it? What does it do?

 

Basically stop truck cranking over with out Transponder (little capsule on my key chain)
Being brushed past a certain hidden area on dashboard.

 

Unfortunately I have some experience with those cursed immobilizers. About 10 years ago when I lived in Manitoba, the government run auto insurance monopoly thought it would be a great idea to compose a list of vehicles most likely to be stolen and mandated that they be retrofitted with immobilizers. These devices mimic the function of transponder style antitheft systems like Ford's PATS or GM' s Passkey IV. Basically, they are designed to interrupt 3 systems in your vehicle electrical system, typically ignition crank and fuel delivery functions. If a correct transponder tag is present, the 3 circuits are restored through relay contacts and the vehicle will start and run. Surprisingly, the devices themselves were pretty reliable, but the usual lowest bidder mentality produced some pretty unstable installation practices and the service facility was usually quick to blame the insurance mandated immobilizer and the insurer refused to take responsibility for their bad decision. Enough of my rant.

They would cut the power feed to the ignition coil and run the circuit through one of the three supplied immobilizer relay contacts. Same with the crank and fuel pump circuits. Carburetor equipped vehicles had a fuel shut off solenoid added. All of the wires from the immobilizer are usually one color in an attempt to discourage bypassing the immobilizer, but it is a simple matter of tracing the wiring to the splice into the factory wiring, disconnecting the immobilizer and reconnecting the like colored factory wires. Pretty intuitive when you get there.

 

Were you ever able to pull your codes??