I have an 89 Aerostar, how would two digit codes be displayed, I don't have a digital speedo, do they show up a different way on older models???


93nighthawk gave these instructions in an older post that I read:


Maybe I should start sticking my hands in people pockets for the amount of advice that I give out. [img]images/smilies2/devil.gif[/img]


I would do the test again.

I assume that you are jumping to get codes.

Get Aero to operating temperature.

Place the jumper wire in the test port.

Sit down in the drivers seat with pen and paper ready.

Turn the iginition "on" but do not start.

You should hear a bunch of clicks and the CE light will flash.

You will start to get your KOEO codes, write them down, remember that they will be two digits.

After it is done running the codes, start the vehicle. (KOER)

The CE will Flash to tell you to turn the steering wheel, push the brake, and hit the accelerator to about 1/2 way down.

Write down Codes.

When codes are done the CE will signal you to start the balance test (I think, if not go ahead and do the following)

Hit the gas to the floor, that will start the balance test.

You will get a two digit code (at least one).

Bring codes here for decifering.

I would not go with the first set of codes you pulled because they are iffy.

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I don't understand the two digit code and how they display.

 

the C.heck E.ngine L.ight in the dash blinks on a certain # of times for each digit, 2 digits per code number.

or attach a volt meter to diagnostics plug>

http://autorepair.about.com/library/...bl-dtcs-60.htm

 

here is another link that I use:

http://www.midwestsho.com/catalog/tr...s=instructions

You might have to hit "What does it mean" a second time to have it come up. Also you can look up the two digit/three digit codes there.

 

thanks you guys, I finally figured it out. I did the key on/engine off and got 85 twice.
According to the codes it is: Canister purge (CANP) circuit failure. Never heard of this, I will do a search, but if you have a clue, I'd sure appreciate your wisdom. Does this sound like a problem with lack of power/hesitation and poor gas mileage. Thanks

 

I would also run the KOER and cylinder balance test. That way you have th full picture of what is going on.

As for the charcoal canister, it is where the fuel fumes are "purged" before the air is released in the air. It is located in around the bumper somewhere (I can't recall exactly where.) If you have issues with your fuel pump or regulator, these tend to get clogged. Ussually it is another issue causing this.

 

Thank you, I used your link to help me run my test. I seemed pretty good on the first one, the second test which is the "key on/engine on" where the engine revs up and I turn the steering wheel tap the brakes and turn off and on the OD (here's the problem, I don't have an OD button, mine is manual through the shifter) so I wasn't able to do the OD so I just let it go, and it gave me these codes, which I'm not 100% sure that I even did it correctly: 21; 13;73; 21; 13; 73

You said "when you have problems with the fuel pump these tend to get clogged" are you telling me that when I find my cannister purge valve (somewhere by the bumper where fuel fumes are purged) I can clean it and that might fix my problems. Again, sorry for my ignorance in this area, but I really am trying to learn how to fix stuff on my vehicles. Thanx

 

Thank you, I used your link to help me run my test. I seemed pretty good on the first one, the second test which is the "key on/engine on" where the engine revs up and I turn the steering wheel tap the brakes and turn off and on the OD (here's the problem, I don't have an OD button, mine is manual through the shifter) so I wasn't able to do the OD so I just let it go, and it gave me these codes, which I'm not 100% sure that I even did it correctly: 21; 13;73; 21; 13; 73

You said "when you have problems with the fuel pump these tend to get clogged" are you telling me that when I find my cannister purge valve (somewhere by the bumper where fuel fumes are purged) I can clean it and that might fix my problems. Again, sorry for my ignorance in this area, but I really am trying to learn how to fix stuff on my vehicles. Thanx

 

The OD part is if you have an electronic tranny (Aeros from 96/97,) So you did fine.

The canister cannot be cleaned. It is like a water filter, once it is clogged, it needs replaced.

Codes from KOER:

13 - ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) ISC sticking open ITS circuit or TP sticking

21 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range

73 - Rerun test if 73 is still output replace TPS No Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) change in "goose" test. Must get at least 25% throttle rotation

Ok it looks like your engine coolen temperature sensor is a gonner and needs replaced (that is one of the reasons that you are getting poor millage, the computer is stuck in warm up mode and running rich.)

Now 13 and 73 could be related in that you did not mention hitting the throttle so it was unable to do the TPS and IAB test properly. Or your TPS and IAB are toast, which is a possibility at that age, so I would re-run the KOER and hit the gas at least 1/4 throttle after the RPMs automatically go up (along with everything else but the OD button.)

Don't worry about it, we all had to start somewhere.

 

Ok, I now have replaced spark plugs, plug wires, cap & rotor and the O2 sensor. Took the van on a test drive. It now runs smooth, no missing, but is gutless. I can get up to cruising speed and it does well. I got home and ran my tests again. Still, as expected 85 for the CANP and I did do the 25% throttle and this is the codes I got this time: 12; 21; 18; 73; 12; 21; 18 then 73. I am hoping that the gas mileage gets better do to the new O2 sensor and tuneup. What I am wondering is whether the CANP has anything to do with horsepower (or how does it affect the van since it is reading as not working).

One more thing you should know, due to your mentioning "ECT" is that my thermostat guage does not read at all. However, after sitting for a long time, I started the van and noticed that the guage worked, but I never got any heat. Finally, I realized that the water level in radiator might be low, sure enough it was about a gallon low. After filling it up again (with warm water) I got heat and my tempature guage quit working.

Let me know what you think, I am driving it to work tomorrow (45 miles one way) I filled it up tonight and will fill it up when I return.

 

Are you running both a KOEO, KOER, and engine balance test?


12 - Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too low)

18 - Check base timing & advance function (M) Ignition TACH signal erratic

21 - Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor out of range

73 - Rerun test if 73 is still output replace TPS No Throttle Position Sensor

(TPS) change in "goose" test. Must get at least 25% throttle rotation
The TPS could be bad, the Goose test is one of those that are hard to get right.

The ECT sensor is different than the sensor sending to the dash. It looks like it is toast and needs replaced, otherwise your fuel economy is going to stink, because the computer thinks it is at operating temp, but it is not.

18 I am not sure.

12, Try cleaning the IAB. common issue with Fords, if that does not work, it will need replaced.

Are you loosing coolant somewhere?

Did you remove the neg battery cable for about twenty minutes after replacing all that stuff? The old codes could be no longer aplicable if you did not do that which would effect engine performance.

 

Thanks for you quick response. I do not appear to be losing coolant, however, I do know that the tube that carries the coolant to the rear has been smashed, it does not appear to be leaking, but might be a little. I did remove the neg battery and waited more than 20 minutes after I finished with the tune up and O2 sensor.

In regards to my ECT and temp guage, are you telling me that the gauge is toast or the ECT is toast. If it is the ECT, is that a costly part, is it a difficult switch out?

On the throttle, I can only guess as to how much pressure I am giving, 25%, 30-35%, your probably right it is hard to guess right on that.

Lastly, what is the IAB and where is it located.

Thanks,
Dave

 

The sensor for the computer is toast (ECT), runs about $20 at the auto parts store. Probably the sensor for the guage is toast too, runs about $5 at the auto parts store. Both are easy DIY, just unplug, remove, install new one, plug in.


It is also known as the IAC, among other names. It is located right after the throttle body on the intake manifold. It is cylinder shapped and Two screws hold it in. There is also a wire leading to it. Try cleaning it with some carb cleaner. If that does not work, replace. 50/50 shot.

As for the CANP, probably a Ford only item, but I would wait a little bit before replacing until you have taken care of the ECT and IAB.

You never mentioned if you did run both KOER, KOEO and engine balance test?

 

OK, I replaced my ECT, replaced my thermo switch sensor, I cleaned my IAC, removed neg battery cable 25 minutes. When I started the van it got good idle for about 20 sec and then dropped real low. Took for test drive and had horrible takeoff speed. Ran key on/eng off test and got 24 and 85. I assumed this to be the IAC and replaced with a new one. Again, 25 min with bat cab off, started van, again idle did real well for about 20 sec and then dropped. I did test drive again, same - lacks power horribly bad. did key on/eng off test and now only 85 again. I did second test key on eng on, this time I finally was able to hear rpm increase, turned steering wheel and applied brake, when rpms went down gave as close to 25% as possible and released. here are the codes 1; 18; 13; 17; 17; 18; 13; 17; 7, I could have missed a digit on the last one. What do you think. Going back to a previous post you mentioned timing. I haven't done that and I think that could be related. I don't have a timing light, so I will try to get with my friend tomorrow. If you have any other suggestions, I would appreciate. Thanks.

 

ok, the 1 is telling you to hit the gas, steering wheel, brake.

Assuming that you read them right, here are what they mean.

13 - ISC did not respond properly (extends to touch throttle then retracts for KOEO) Idle Speed Control motor or Air Bypass not controlling idle properly (generally idle too high) ISC sticking open ITS circuit or TP sticking

17 - 1.9L & 2.5L - Throttle stop set too low

18 - Check base timing & advance function (M) Ignition TACH signal erratic

As for the 7, I don't know, all codes are two digits, not single digits. To do the balance test, you just hit the gas when it is done giving you the codes during the koer and it will start dropping sylinders, then give you a two digit code.

I would also check to your vacuum tree to see if any of the lines came loose, that might also explain your poor running, along with replacing the CANF, sense that seems to be an issue.

 

I figured out my power problem, 2 spark plug wires got fried on the manifold. I got those fixed and the van is running real well, I suspect the gas mileage isn't where I want it because it seemed to use quite a bit on my little trip. I make the same trip tomorrow, then I'll fill up and find out the mileage. Redid tests, key on/eng off - still 85; key on key on/eng on codes: 18; 13; 77; 18; 13; 77; and I am still unsucessful doing the balance test, I goose it at least 50%, I hear the engine go up a little and that's it and I wait quite awhile. I checked the timing and it is good. I don't know what the ISC is to do anything about it.

Again, thanks for your wisdome,
Dave