Towing engine build
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Elder User
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Towing engine build
I have a 78' 460 block, set of ported d3 heads, straight up timing chain, I am dropping it off at the machine shop next week, going to go a .030 bore and put flat tops in it at zero deck height. The calculator I used showed roughly 9.5-1 compression, is this number correct? Is it a safe for 87 octane or can i go a little higher on compression? Also looking for a good towing cam, any tried and true combinations? Thanks everyone!
More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
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I have pretty much the same build in my truck. '84 460 block bored .030" with flat top pistons, ported D3VE heads, pre '73 straight up timing set with a Crane Powermax cam and Edelbrock Performer intake. I never calculated the compression but I'm guessing mine is in the 9.5 range with those heads. Don't go any higher than that. 9.5:1 is about the limit for cast iron heads on pump gas. I run 87 octane in mine and it already pings when I lug it on hills.
More Turbo
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I'm satisfied with it. In my eyes there's no such thing as having too much power so I'd obviously like more, but I didn't want to sacrifice driveability either. It idles smooth and has plenty of low end grunt. I did a three angle valve job on the heads and had them resurfaced but otherwise I didn't do anything else. I reused the original rocker arms but had to shim the pedestals to get the correct preload on the lifters. I opened up the ports on my stock exhaust manifolds too because I didn't want to deal with the headache of headers.
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I agree with your power statement, I assume you're running cast iron manifolds as well? I had long tubes and never liked the heat created and it didn't seem to make a difference in what I'm using it for. Low end is a must for me because I'm running a 3.55 gear with 35's. Im sure the cam choices are a hot debate as well, but thanks for your input.
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Hell big reason why I am sticking with manifolds on mine, 4500 rpm is the max I hit when floored so no need for headers plus the extra heat I don't care for under the hood. But I do need low end torque as well on my end.
I have heard mixed sayings ive heard stock manifolds generate better low end torque than long tube headers will then Ive also heard long tube headers build more as well.
I have heard mixed sayings ive heard stock manifolds generate better low end torque than long tube headers will then Ive also heard long tube headers build more as well.
More Turbo
Joined: May 2008
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Correct, I'm running the stock cast iron manifolds. I didn't want the extra heat and incessant leaks headers are famous for. I used the gaskets as a guide and opened up the ports on my manifolds to match. I don't know if it was worth my time or not but every little bit helps. Ford designed these engines to fit between the shock towers of the cars from that era and the exhaust flow suffers as a result of their head design, so look for a dual pattern cam with longer duration on the exhaust side to help it breathe better. I'm running 3.55 gears as well.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Houston
Unless you run aftermarket heads.
For my build I planned on running aftermarket aluminum heads so I can bump compression up to build more torque as well. Down side is I am constantly changing what I planned on. Orignally I planed on doing a stroker engine but now I am rethinking that as I think I want to stick with the stock intake and stock 2150 carb since Ford did spend a lot of money to design this carb and it has served me well, I really don't mess with the carb while everyone in the auto field is telling me carbs need to be adjusted every change of the season or atleast once a year. I really have never messed with mine.
Down side is I just don't know if the stock 2150 would be enough to power a stroker I don't see why it wouldn't since my 351W has a 351 CFM 2150 and if I did a 348 stroker even the 351 CFM 2150 on my 302 should still feed that engine as well. But with aluminum heads not too sure.
So in the end I have no idea what I am going to do but if you decide to run aluminum heads one way or another you really don't need a dual pattern camshaft anymore.
For my build I planned on running aftermarket aluminum heads so I can bump compression up to build more torque as well. Down side is I am constantly changing what I planned on. Orignally I planed on doing a stroker engine but now I am rethinking that as I think I want to stick with the stock intake and stock 2150 carb since Ford did spend a lot of money to design this carb and it has served me well, I really don't mess with the carb while everyone in the auto field is telling me carbs need to be adjusted every change of the season or atleast once a year. I really have never messed with mine.
Down side is I just don't know if the stock 2150 would be enough to power a stroker I don't see why it wouldn't since my 351W has a 351 CFM 2150 and if I did a 348 stroker even the 351 CFM 2150 on my 302 should still feed that engine as well. But with aluminum heads not too sure.
So in the end I have no idea what I am going to do but if you decide to run aluminum heads one way or another you really don't need a dual pattern camshaft anymore.
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From: Virginia
I agree with your power statement, I assume you're running cast iron manifolds as well? I had long tubes and never liked the heat created and it didn't seem to make a difference in what I'm using it for. Low end is a must for me because I'm running a 3.55 gear with 35's. Im sure the cam choices are a hot debate as well, but thanks for your input.
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Northeast, OK
Very true. But a good tranny cooler would be important as there will be plent of slippage and slippage equals heat.
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Elder User
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Any reason to ditch the stock manifold? I had the weiand stealth and was not impressed, through the stock back on. Runners aren't as long as the eddy unit, but other than weight savings, I'd just assume port match them the same. Any real difference in pistons when going on a rebuild of this kind? not trying to cut corners, but I know at this level, there are some unnecessary money spending habits.
Cross-Country
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Yeah, 2300rpm is a good spot for 70mph.
But you really want deeper gears if you're towing with it. Don't use tires to fake an overdrive, either bite the bullet for a ZF5 or external OD or deal with the fact that from the factory 70mph is about 2700rpm.
4.10's with 35's would get you back to stock ratio (actually a tiny bit better).
But you really want deeper gears if you're towing with it. Don't use tires to fake an overdrive, either bite the bullet for a ZF5 or external OD or deal with the fact that from the factory 70mph is about 2700rpm.
4.10's with 35's would get you back to stock ratio (actually a tiny bit better).
FTE Legend
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 32,875
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From: Northeast, OK
Yeah, 2300rpm is a good spot for 70mph.
But you really want deeper gears if you're towing with it. Don't use tires to fake an overdrive, either bite the bullet for a ZF5 or external OD or deal with the fact that from the factory 70mph is about 2700rpm.
4.10's with 35's would get you back to stock ratio (actually a tiny bit better).
But you really want deeper gears if you're towing with it. Don't use tires to fake an overdrive, either bite the bullet for a ZF5 or external OD or deal with the fact that from the factory 70mph is about 2700rpm.
4.10's with 35's would get you back to stock ratio (actually a tiny bit better).
