1988 e150

I got the new pivot arm bushings installed and need to tighten the bolts. i have read in several places NOT to tighten the bolts until the weight is on the front wheels. That makes it hard to access without a drive on lift..

Can I put the jack stands under the pivot arm right where the radius arm bolts on and then tighten up the bolts?

Thanks
Anna

 

I think you answered your own question

The point is you don't want the axles hanging down while you tighten up the pivot bolts, you'll want the axle at a "normal" ride level to "seat" the bushings.

Moving the jack stands to the axle/radius arm junction with weight on the stands, would put the axle at a normal ride level, plus that junction is also the standard jack point.

 

Thanks for verifying that Wildman!
I also put new radius arm bushings, coil springs, and shocks on.

I had two stands under the rear axle and two under the front frame, just in front of the front wheels. When bolting on the passenger side shock I put the jack under the I-beam where the radius arm bolt is. I had to raise it till the van started to t off of the front stand on that side before i could get the lower shock bolt in place. I guess that was because it was shifting weight to the rear drivers side leaf spring. The drivers side did not do that..
I am guessing the coil springs will settle down more once I get the tires on and it down on the ground.

I still have the calipers left to put back on then i can put the wheels on and let it down.. The new springs are about 2 or 3 inches higher then the old ones.

After a week or so of riding around with the new springs on, should I go back and loosen the pivot bolts and re tighten them. Im thinking if th enew springs settle down, the bushings will no longer be in the proper ride position

 

After having my own axle pivot and radius arm bushings along with front coils etc replaced once all buttoned up I was never advised anything should be re-tightened anytime later.

Wildman's idea is good so for peace of mind I'd go that route--can't hurt.

 

Wildman is right

 

well I did like Wildman said to do and left it at that.. The front wheels are tilted inward at the bottom just a little. those new coil springs are really tight... After driving it a bit, which included a trip to homedepot where they have 4 fairly good size speed brakes, it seems to have settled down a bit..

 

Now you need an alignment or at least set the toe.

 

yes defiantly the toe in. I am planning a trip to the mountains in a couple of weeks and it will be about 40 miles round trip on gravel roads. That might settle the new springs down a bit which should help the negative camber, I think it is called...
I measured the van from the aluminum running boards and it was dead level...

 

If all you want to do is the toe, you can do that yourself.

 

what is the best way to do that on a van? That would save some money as it is around $70 here.. I know how to do the adjustment with the sleeve. I am curious how one would center the steering wheel with just one adjustment sleeve to work with..
The right wheel has a solid drag link that connects to the pitman arm. the only adjustment sleeve is between the inner and outer tie rod ends that connect to the drag link and left wheel.. I am thinking short of pulling the steering wheel, you are pretty much stuck with what you got because you would have to line up the right front wheel with the right rear wheel first. Then use the adjustment sleeve to set the toe-in with the fixed position right wheel.. At least that is what it seems like to me

 

I've used string on cars that go over 170 mph.

 

vettex2........great post

Would have never thought of that for a quick fix

 

I usually use a toe bar or toe plates but everyone has string for cheap available.
String is better for 4 wheel alignments though. You can set the front and REAR toe as well as square the car up.

 

Yes, Thanks Vettex.. I will defiantly be using this method very soon. Going to have the tires balanced tomorrow. I'll never buy good year wranglers again. Originally I bought them and had them put on my 95 GMC van. When i bought the 85 e150, I had them moved to it. Now they are on my 88 e150 i have had vibration problems with all 3 vans with these tires on them. The front tires were starting to cup on the outer edge so after doing the work this week, I put those tires on the back.
Before doing the work and rotating the tires I had a slight vibration between 60 and 60 mph. now it is between 58 to 70 mph.. i can see that the front wheels are turned outwards just a little facing the front of the van. hopefully they won't be that way by the end of the day tomorrow..