Well, I have my truck up on ramps and changed the oil/filter/etc. Looked at the radius arm bushings and they appear well worn to mu untrained eye and I think I'm gonna try and change 'em myself.

After reviewing other posts, I'm gonna try and remove the radius arm brackets. The ones on my truck have three bolts and ONE rivet holding them on. I'm hoping I can remove the big nut behind the radius arm bushing, grind off and punch out the rivet, and remove the three bolts, in that order.

Not much room under there to swing a hammer to drive the rivet out so I wanna leave the truck up on the ramps, but I'm worried that when the radius arm is free of the bracket the corresponding axle may want to roll forward or backward, or will the axle pivot bushing keep the axle from moving around?

Would I be better off supporting the vehicle by the frame just behind the strut arm brackets and let the front axles droop? Or also support the front axle with a jack stand?

And will the radius arm stay in position when the bracket is removed, or does it also need to be supported by a hefty jack?

I'd be interested in any and all experiences that those who have done this procedure have encountered. I just don't want any surprises.. . . . . . .Thanks in advance, guys.

 

The way I do it is just remove the nut on the raduis arm and hook up a come-a-long to the axle and pull it loose then change the bushing. All this can be done on level ground. A VERY simple change.

 

Three bolts and one rivit - maybe you will be OK. I tried removing the rivets on mine (all rivets) and just could not do it with a lousy air chisel. If you don't have good equipment (air chisel and oxy-acty torch) you may have a problem getting the *&^%^ rivet out like I did.

Consider removing the nut and pulling the whole suspension forward as someone else said. That's what I'm going to do next time. Good luck.
jor

 

I just changed out my radius arm bushings, they were almost gone. The brackets used all rivets and I didn't want to screw with them so I pulled the axles forward. When doing this I noticed that the axle pivot bushings were pretty worn out too so ended up just dropping out both axles and changing everything. Those axle pivot bushings were tough, had to use a press to remove them and again to install the new ones.

Barry

 

You guys are removing the bracket to change these?!?!?!? Pull the nut off, unbolt the spring which is under no pressure and unbolt it from the front. It's a whole lot easier and you don't need a come along.

 

I'm with stepman. . . . .

SHEEeeesh!... I'd never consider cutting rivets or removing brackets.

I can see how it might happen but why spend the time, effort, expense, & aggravation when you can unload springs to neutral, unbolt 'em & big end bolt, then move it by hand in 35- 45 min
total time start to end, or add another 15 minutes for inner axle pivot bushings too.

I'd wager both sides can be done in less time, doing all bushings this right way, than doing 1 side, radius bushings only, removing the bracket, come to think about it.

Stepman, you must work flate rate too?

I'd swap GMs, Muscle Car, A body, upper & lower ball joints in 35 minutes a side, or 2 sides [4 Ball Joints] in 1 hour which is 1/3 the flatrate GM pays for 1 side, 1 lower, ball joint. Made good $$with that trick. FBp.

 

I wish I worked flat rate. Where I am they clock me by flat rate but only pay me hourly. I could make twice the money if they paid me flat.

 

As Barry noticed, the axle pivots get just as much wear as the radius bushings, so replace them in sets - you will notice a big improvement in steering. And they are not that tough if you get poly bushings - no pressing needed. Just push or burn the old rubber out and slide the new poly in - easy. And poly costs the same as rubber but handles better and lasts longer.

Marty

 

Exactly what step said ....by far the easiest way

 

Thanks for all the replys, guys. The "pull the axle forward" gang and the "remove the brackets" group have got me doing some re-thinking of my approach, and I have a few more questions:

Stepman, BB, Stormin, and Fordboy: when you pull the axle forward is it necessary to remove the brake caliper? The shock absorber? The upper spring retainer clip? Lower spring retainer? to allow enough axle movement? (The upper retainer clip looks pretty well rusted and I'd hate to twist it off if I didn't have to.)

And for jor: Does the fact that my truck has three bolts and only ONE rivet per side make the "remove the brackets" method a better way to go? I don't have an air chisel, but I do have an air powered cut-off wheel - if I can get it in there to cut the head off the rivet.

And for 73custom, I was planning on using polyurethane - either Energy Suspension or Prothane - any reccomendations? If we use the poly, are we still going to have to re-use the axle pivot bushing's outer metal shell?

Thanks in advance for your comments and encouragement - as you can tell, I need it

 

I have the same setup in my 79 and replaced the bushings by drilling out the the rivet and removing the brackets. That way I could remove the rust and coat it. I used a 1/2" bolt to replace the rivet. I didn't even bother jacking the truck off the floor.

 

Hello PDQ,

I did this job on a '74 F-100 a few weeks ago, and I did it by puilling the axle forward. I posted a few pictures in my gallery of the process. If you view them, you can get a rough idea what this method involves and how it should look as you do it.

 

I haven't done these in quite a while but, I don't remember them being that hard.
Lift vehicle and support by frame. Lower I-beam and remove big bolt in bottom of spring. (this will allow more movement) unbolt bottom of shock.Remove nut from rear of radius arm.( may want to do that first) Now you should be able to pull beam forward and completely remove arm. Reinstall w/new bushings. If you want you can also unbolt other end of beam to change those bushings. I can't if I used to remove caliper or not. Just depends on length of hose. I believe hose has a hanger that can be removed for more distance.

I used to do these with a floor jack and a stand by myself in about 1/2 hour each.

 

Warning. Getting the axle pivot bushing out can be difficult. BB said he had his pressed out. One of mine came out without problem. The other was stubborn. I had to burn it out with a hand held propane torch - do not breath the fumes, they are toxic.

 

pdqford,

I did mine on my 79 F150 4x4 and took nothing off but the large nut and the bushing. I didn't have a come-along so I jacked the truck up from the frame, put a car ramp under the front wheel, and lowered the truck onto the ramp. The front wheel rolled down the ramp and foreward enough for me to change the bushing. I did have to push it foreward with my legs a bit, though.

One thing that would make it easier would be to remove the top of the shock absorber and possibly the top of the coil spring. Just be careful and make sure the other wheels are blocked and the jack is stable.

Good luck.

Kevin K.