I'm putting new radius arm bushings on my 85 f150 and was wondering if someone could answer a quick ? for me. I drove out the rivots and replaced with bolts, but I did them one at a time. Do I need to support anything before I take out all the bolts to drop the bracket? Just wondering if I need anything on jack stands or not, thanks for the help guys.

 

you'll probably want to put a jack under the ibeam where the spring meets so you can drop it down slowly. you want to support the whole front end with jack stands as well so its off the ground

 

okay, thanks

 

slifer

You need to support the frame with a jackstand. Then you can control lowering your axle with a jack to change the bushings.

Otherwise your suspension will still be loaded with the vehicle weight and it may not be pretty when you try to remove the bolts in the radius arm bracket, and something shifts unexpectedly.

 

My bracket just broke yesterday. The simplest way of replacing the bushings is to remove the bracket, which has 2 rivets into the frame (and 2 other bolts) . You must cut off the rivets (or drill them out). I was able to remove the bracket by unbolting it because it had been previously serviced, however the radius arm is somewhat loaded by the coil spring. I simply used a pry bar (or 2x4) between the frame and arm, to pull it down to remove the bushings and bracket. If you are removing the rivets, you will need to put something between the arm and frame to avoid the upward force the spring will cause. Jacking it up will only cause more pitch. I prefer to remove it pointing straight back. Once the bracket is removed, you can let the arm rest against the frame. Be sure to clean off the rust where the bushings ride and use a lubricant like never-sieze (on the arm where the bushings will ride. Do not use anything that will cause the rubber to swell, such as wd-40. Silicone is fine for rubber). Do not use urethane bushings !!!! They are too hard and put too much stress on the bracket. If you are looking for a good ride, go with the heavy duty rubber ones that TRW makes. I strongly advise against urethane ones !!!! If you want off-road action, I suggest a 2-4" lift with extended radius arms (Again, use rubber bushings). I'm sure my oversized tires 10.50x15 didn't help the radius arm bushings and brackets (more bounce). Also, be sure to use grade8 bolts when you replace the rivets ! This is a high-stress item, so don't go with cheap hardware. If you have any doubts about the bracket condition, replace them !!!!! The same goes for the arms.

 

Raising the axle up with the frame supported will take pressure off the bracket at the frame mounting point to make access easy.

Raising the axle, drops the radius arm down in the back when the bolts and or rivets are out of the bracket.

 

Looks like one side of the Bronco radius arm pushed up, the other side pushed down. Definitely put a jackstand under the frame, and put a floor jack under the arm. The trick is to get the tension release prior to undoing the bracket entirely. I still have a little bounce, but I attribute it to tired coil springs. Since my 1993 Bronco didn't come with dual front shocks, and since I live near the ocean where everything rusts up so fast, I decided to change the coil springs and the shock/coil tower. I am putting in a new tower that accomodates the dual shocks. The radius arm has the lower shock mount for the 2nd shock. And of course, at 110,000 miles, I've decided to change the ball joints as well. I've already installed dual stabilizer shocks (Ranchos), but beware, the duals do not have the return a single one does. Dual stabilizers take out the play, but reduce the steering's ability to return to center by itself. However, it does handle rough roads much better. The only thing left after that will be tie rod ends and a drag link, then the front end is new (Wheel bearings have been done earlier this summer).

 

I got the bushings in, just need an alignment now. New coil springs shocks and ball joints as well, so I should be in good shape. Thanks for the help guys.