When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Noticed a massive leak after cleaning my TB and intake duct work today (pulled a vacuum line on top of the intake, could this have caused it? I doubt it) Traced it to the AC evaporator core (fluid leaking down the backside of the passenger side wheel well. I put my hand under the evap core while the AC was on max and felt cool air. the low pressure lines were ice cold. Should I replace the evaporator core to fix the leak? has anyone had this issue? 90 degree weather with no AC sucks.
Edit: it is blowing hot, mechanic mentioned something about the blend door
you need to determine if you have a gas leak or not.. You install gauges and check the fill level. If the pressures are right, then the " leak" might be an old stain ? If there is gas leaking out, then the pressure will drop to zero and you will not have cool air or cold lines...
If the lines are cold and the air inside the cab is hot, then you possibly have a blend door problem. The broken door or controller will allow the air to go thru the heater core and get hot instead of going thru the cooling coil to get cool... The blend door has absolutely nothing to do with a gas ( Freon) leak in the core.
The vacuum hoses control the direction the air flows... to the dash, floor, or defrost.. they do not control the temp. You may have a vacuum hose that shuts off a valve in the heater hose when the AC is engaged.
you need to determine if you have a gas leak or not.. You install gauges and check the fill level. If the pressures are right, then the " leak" might be an old stain ? If there is gas leaking out, then the pressure will drop to zero and you will not have cool air or cold lines...
If the lines are cold and the air inside the cab is hot, then you possibly have a blend door problem. The broken door or controller will allow the air to go thru the heater core and get hot instead of going thru the cooling coil to get cool... The blend door has absolutely nothing to do with a gas ( Freon) leak in the core.
The vacuum hoses control the direction the air flows... to the dash, floor, or defrost.. they do not control the temp. You may have a vacuum hose that shuts off a valve in the heater hose when the AC is engaged.
checked the pressure, slightly low so i added some more. The fluid dripping from my passenger side was robably condensation from the evap core (it was just water and it was very hot and humid). Took my blend door actuator off today (works fine) and managed to get the door stuck on AC in the process of removing the actuator, so at least i can cool off. How difficult is it to access the blend door?
the actuator is not hard to get off........... getting into the duct to do the blend door or shaft is a little harder....... Make sure the actuator gear box is actually working under load... hold the shaft whey you energize it to operator......... also look at the shaft on the blend door... do you see it snapped off or twisted ?
There are "alternate fixes" and patches for the blend door drive / shaft. Might be a good idea for a 20 year old truck....... you cut a hole in the duct, fix the insides, then screw or duct tape or RTV the cover plate back into position... There are posts on how to do this........ see you-tube.
the actuator is not hard to get off........... getting into the duct to do the blend door or shaft is a little harder....... Make sure the actuator gear box is actually working under load... hold the shaft whey you energize it to operator......... also look at the shaft on the blend door... do you see it snapped off or twisted ?
There are "alternate fixes" and patches for the blend door drive / shaft. Might be a good idea for a 20 year old truck....... you cut a hole in the duct, fix the insides, then screw or duct tape or RTV the cover plate back into position... There are posts on how to do this........ see you-tube.
been considering that. saw a video on a heater core replacement where the guy removed all of the instrument panel mounting bolts and rolled the dash forward without having to remove everything. inside it. if I get enough clearance from that, ill probably open up the blend door box and attempt to repair replace the part with the kit from dorman.
that was my point... dash removal takes HOURS... you can remove the glove box and cut a hole in the duct and "patch" the door drive several different methods in 30 minutes. ......... Its not factory original, but would save you a lot of time and grief.
just in case i decide to sell the car in running condition, i'd like to have the AC/heat work properly, even it means spending a Saturday doing a PITA job properly. If i cant get the dash out then I'll do the easy fix
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.