This is my first time using these forums, and I assume those that intend to help need as much information as possible in order to help. So, I'll try my best. I own a 96 Ford Ranger Pick Up. It's a 2wd, 4cyl, 2.3L. I've always had ice cold air, until two weeks ago. I usually use the max AC switch, with the fan turned on low. I remember turning it to normal AC, seeing that it wasn't on Max AC, and turning it back. When I did this I heard a crackeling in the vents, and assumed it was just a leaf, etc. I then just rolled the window door and didn't think about it. The next day I noticed that there was an intense heat burning my feet and legs. It was coming from the leg defrost vent, yet all the switching were turned to off. I turn on the AC, and the air was as hot as the air that was coming out below. Of course this shocked me, because I've never had a problem with the air. Even the day before. I commute each day, and was forced to turn the air on full blast (which is blowing the hot air) and rolling the windows down, to prevent my feet from getting burnt. I do live in FL, and it's a huge problem for me. I checked the AC compressor, and it works great, plus all the lines leaving it turn ice cold in seconds. I then determined it must be a switch or the door inside the dash. I took it to a AC chain (Ice Cold Air) and told them that it wasn't the compressor or freeon, and that it must be something else. They called me at home and said it was the actuator motor assembly. I was given a price of $270 out the door and figured I might as well get it done. They then called me back and said that it wasn't the actuator, it was the actual blend door, and that it was broken. They said with the part and labor, it would be $650. I told them I couldn't efford that, and asked if there was anyway that they could rig it so I would just get the cold air, and close off the heat. At least I wouldn't get my feet burnt and I live in FL. They said that nothing could be done. They said I needed the Blend Door with the Box. I've checked eBay, and all internet sites and can't locate a blend door. I've even tried the fordparts.com site, to no avail. What I need to know is this. 1)Is it the blend door that this sounds like, or are they just assuming? 2)Can I just replace the blend door? 3)Where can I find one? 4)What's the easiest way to repair this? 5) Do I go in through the dash or the engine compartment? I know this is a lot of info. but I obviously need to get it off my chest because I'm a little fed up. I'd appreciate any help and advice I can get. Also, I've seen a lot about replacing the actuator, but nothing about the door. Where can I find that? Thanks for help.
Tom

 

Welcome to FTE!

There is a "workaround" available for some situations involving a broken blend door. Many people have used it with great success, but a lot depends on how bad things are busted up in there:

http://www.blenddoorfix.netfirms.com/

Here is a thread wherein people have posted about their experiences using the "Ford Blend Door Fix":

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=24962

Good luck, hope this helps.

 

Thanks, this is the site that I had seen that I had mentioned above. I thought it was more of a actuator fix. If the door is actually broken, will this fix it?

Tom

 

Tom,

Sounds like the shop has verified that you do indeed have a broken blend door. This is hashed out in many, many other threads on this board, but here's a quick recap.

There are a few fixes you could do:

1) The "blend door" fix mentioned in the links above. This fix addresses the problem by sticking a pin through the actuator shaft so that it can turn the broken blend door. It is done this way because replacing the blend door requires replacing the entire heater plenum, which means taking off the entire dash board, and it is a pain in the butt job. Modifying the actuator can take as little as a 1/2 hour and can be done through the glove box opening.

2) Replace the plenum. The heater plenum isn't "that" expensive, new I think it is $200~$300. Used you can get them from a parts yard or ebay for as low as $100. I did this and detailed it in a thread here:
<a href="https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-152937-Heater%20Plenum%20Replacement">Heater Plenum Replacement</a>
It is about 8~10 hours of labor for a one off job; your shop is not stabbing you, just trying to recoup their cost for the mechanic's time.

3) Since you are in Florida, the cheapest, quickest, and dirtiest solution might be to bypass the heater core. If you take the hoses that go into the core off the core inlet/outlet (in the engine bay), and connect them together, no coolant will flow into the core and there will be no heat heating up your AC. I believe that MAX A/C is supposed to shut off coolant to the core also, so I'm not sure why you were getting hot air on your feet full time. NOTE: This will affect the resale value of your truck. If someone checks the heat, it won't work. It's one of the first things I check when I buy a used vehicle as it is a good warning sign of just such band-aid fixes. I would only do this as a temporary solution to stop the burning of your legs until you can get the blend door fixed in another way.

Good Luck,
Jim

 

Wow, some great advice here. I was wondering how that actuator set up would actually fix the blend door, and now after reading your post I see that most blend doors must bust where the actuator and door meet, so it makes sense. Here's the thing that is getting me a little hopeful/suspecious, as I've stated above, since this thing broke about 2 1/2 weeks ago, I've been forced to keep the blower on full blast (even though it's blowing HOT air) this at least allows me to drive without getting 2nd degree burns on my feet. Of course, since I live in FL, having the heat on full blast makes me drive with the windows down, which is messerable. So, tonight on my commute back, the heat was really hot and I placed my hand over the vent to feel exactly how hot the air was. And it was HOT. All of a sudden, the air started getting cooler, and cooler. In a bout 2 mins time, it was ICE COLD! For the first time in about three weeks, my AC was actually blowing cold air! I wonder if maybe the door could have been just jammed, or what? I hope this is the case tomorrow when I take my drives. I can't understand what in the world happened here.

Tom

 

That sounds to me like you switched from NORM AC to MAX AC after running in NORM for a while. I believe the difference between NORM and MAX is that MAX shuts off the coolant flow to the heater core and recirculates air from inside the cab. If you ran in NORM for a while, the heater core would heat up and you'd get the hot air. Then, if you switched to MAX, the heater core would gradually cool down and the air coming out would go from scorching to cold.

An alternate theory would be that your AC really kicked in because you ran it in a good RPM range for an extended period, which made it able to overcome the heat that the core was putting out. It's hard to say without more details of where your switches were set and the like.

If you want to know for sure whether your blend door is broken or not, you can do a simple check with a dentist's mirror, as explained in the blend door fix instructions. That will tell you for sure if you have the issue (assuming you don't trust your mechanic).

-Jim

 

Yeah, again today, I turned on the AC after starting up in hopes that it would still be cold. It was hot, so I was like "oh, man". Then after driving about five minutes, it went COLD again. So, then I was like "sweet". This is the first time in weeks that I've had cold air. I always keep AC on Max, except I only put fan on low or medium. I think I should still check the door out. This may not last. Does anyone know where I can find one of those dentist mirrors, it's not exactly like I have one lying around. Also, would a small shaving mirror fit in there and do the job? It's about 2 1/2 inches wide. Thanks, and all the info I can get from you guys is appreciated.

Tom

 

Tom, regarding the "dentist" mirror, you can get them at most auto parts stores and I've even seen them at Home Depot and Lowes Home Improvement stores (in the tools section).

 

Again today it happened. I was driving and of course HOT air. After about 10 mins, it turned COLD. Then ten minutes later went HOT again. On my commute home tonight, HOT the whole time. Tomorrow I'm going to try the blend door fix that was posted to me above, however, I was wondering with the step where u take the dentist mirror and look up there, what exactly am I looking for to see if it's broken, and indeed this fix will work. Is this picture, in the step show the bottom of the hinge, and what direction do u place the mirror, towards you? Or straight up the hole? Please help, I'm going try this tomorrow. Thanks.


Tom

 

Today I tried the fix with pictures listed above. Everything with perfect, and every single step was exactly like the pictures in the fix. Even down to how the broken piece looked through the dentist mirror. But, it's still isn't working correct. Like in the last few days, I'll be driving around with the AC on full blast, and it only blows HOT air. And then all of a sudden it'll get ICE COLD, and I'll think that it's working again. Then, a little later, HOT again, without changing the control. Is there anyway that I can see if the rest of the blend door is cracked or broken, without getting into the whole dash? Someone please help, it's driving me nuts. Tom

 

For a temp fix I would do what PSKSAM2 suggested. My heater core went out on me and I've ran all summer with the heater core bypassed. Now it's time to fix it as winter is creeping up.

 

Bump.......

 

I wish I could offer you more insight Tom, but I haven't had to do the fix myself, so I don't have any personal experience with the blend door issue on the Ranger. You might try posting in the thread from the Explorer Forum that I referenced earlier,

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...ad.php?t=24962

the people who have already posted to it seem very helpful and might be able to comment on your current situation.

FWIW, in reading throught the thread myself, I notice that some people didn't have success the first time through with the fix, but eventually got it to work.

Good luck.

 

After trying the fix Thursday, I really thought I had fixed it, but I hadn't. I got fed up and gave up. I then went back to the forum for the fix and read that some people had to drill several holes to get it right. I took the actuator back off, and instead of using a mirror, I used my finger to get a feel for where it was broken. It was different than the one in the pic, but not by much, just a different angle. I redrilled and tried it, PERFECT. Cold, then back to hot, etc., about a hundred times. Each time the door switched and it WORKS! I don't know how long it will last. The nail pin may bend, or the door may finish it's break and have to replace the entire plenum. But, maybe not. For now, it's working! IT WORKED, IT WORKED, IT WORKED! Thanks, ROCKLEDGE, natebaker, PSKSAM2! YOU GUYS ROCK!

 

Good going! Glad to hear that you persevered.