Just got an email from an autobody/refinishing supplier advertising a 3M 3513 product for converting rust. Here is the 3M writeup:
One-Step Rust Converter Primer Sealer is water-based latex containing rust modifiers, which is designed for application directly over tightly bonded rust on iron or steel. It's also proven effective on new degreased or mild steel where flash-rusting has occurred. Shortly after application, the rusted surface will change from white to purple to a stable black coating. A uniform black coating indicates the complete conversion of the rust; white streaks or remaining rust indicate that an additional coat is required.
I haven't heard of this product before so I was wondering if anyone here has used it?

 

Rust converter products have been around for decades. I started using Ospho back in the mid '70's. Excellent product. Since that time I've seen many brands jump on that bandwagon.
http://www.ospho.com/

 

I haven't used that product in particular, but as Mixer man said, rust converters have been around for a while. They're usually some sort of acid (tannic, phosphoric) which reacts with rust (iron oxide) and converts it to something more stable (iron tannate, iron phosphate). The chemistry is a little more complicated than that in reality, but most rust converters work on that basic principle.

There is always the argument that the rust is "still there" even though it's been chemically converted, but I'm not looking to open that particular can of worms!

 

I am very familiar with rust convertors but I had not seen this particular brand before. I use KBS products because they work well and they are not as expensive as POR15. This 3M product is latex based which means that it does not need solvents to thin it or to clean up after using it. Just thought it might be worth a try if others recommend it.

 

From what I've been reading (MSDS/SDS sheets) of various rust converters they all seem to be pretty hazardous. Just a head's-up. And even though some are 'water based' it seems most are alcohol based so don't equate 'water-based' with 'non-flammable'. You might also check out Corroseal, it seems to be about the same as the 3513 without 3M's high price.

 

I have also used Corroseal before with very good results on ships steel components exposed to seawater.

 

Good discussion...I had not heard of Corroseal before but I did watch a video today on how it is applied and the prep. For the money the Corroseal looks like a winner.


CBeav...thanks for the heads-up. I work with far more volatile chemicals than any latex-based paint but I guess it's a lot like gun safety, treat them all like they are loaded.

 

^^ Ditto. But you rarely know the experience of others. I just toss things out as points of consideration for those that might not be aware.

 

OK, so I ordered a gallon of Corroseal and it came in today. I was reading the label to get all the pertinent info before I gave it a test. I liked the idea that it was thin enough to spray right out of the jug and that it cleans up with soap and water. Then came the kicker, after application and cure Corroseal can be removed with lacquer thinner...that's not what I wanted to hear. I guess that if you know that from the start then you can make sure that there is a top coat applied to any Corroseal that may be exposed to solvents. I have a sheet of steel plate that has been sitting out in the weather for years now. I coated a portion of the plate with KBS Rust Seal as a test to see how long the coating will hold out the rust. I will apply the Corroseal on another section and keep an eye on it.

 

At 70 years old I have used a lot of rust products over the years and some were great but can't be bought any longer.
Now guys you just need to bite the bullet and buy what you need to do the job and DONE.


Eastwood sales a great product and bet it is made by POR-15 but coat less. You can brush it on or thin and spray. It can be top coated or left as is. My son had it in the bed of his utility body and he never top coated it and there was no signs of rust for like 10 years and it out in the sun working out of the truck.
Eastwood Black Rust Encapsulator - Paint Over Rust


The next item that I would think has been discussed on here should be Picklex-20. Now 1qt + shipping will set you back like a $100 but buying by the gal is a better deal because the shipping cost is the same. If you have a friend or a few buddies then divide it up. It goes a long way. You brush it on and wait one min and blow it off. It will tend to flash rust ASAP and you will have a nice light gray finish. You can prime and top coat after the time it says wait for. I use it under powder coating when I need it. If your item or truck is keep in a garage and not one that is like crazy damp then it will be fine for weeks/months and even a year if your place is good and tight. Car restorers have been using it for years. They can work on one panel at a time until they finish the whole car and then wipe down and prime and paint. It will not hold up if put on and left outside like in the rain or even washed. It is made to use and then keep inside.


You can read all about it on the net and you will see companies that use it along with some of the other items you guys are using and talking about. If you want to buy it then the best place is from the maker of it and he is located in AL and by all means make sure you get the proper instructions from him. He makes two products but the other one has to be dried in an oven and that is not what you guys need are want.


You can call or email him.
Purchase Pickelx® 20

 

Thanks Duke, I had not heard of Picklex 20 but it looks like a great product. Years ago (2004) I wrote an article on rust removal using electrolysis (Technical - TOOLS, Rust Removal, the easy way... | The H.A.M.B.). which describes a very cost effective means by which small rusty parts can be cleaned. The focus of most of my work regarding the removal of rust has to do with body panels...specifically seams in these panels that cannot be reached by ordinary means. If you look at these old trucks, and other old cars in general, they all rust at the seams. Surface metal repair only goes so far because once the rust sets in it's hard to get rid of it without a massive deconstruction effort. To date I have had good luck with rust encapsulation products that are thin enough to seep into the cracks and crevices in the body seams. Living in SoCal is not the best test of rust prevention products/techniques but you would be surprised at how much corrosion happens even in this dry climate when drain holes clog and cars spend a lot of time near the beach.