if its bleeding off then unhook discharge tube and air test the Rails and HPOP separately


or deadhead test the HPOP


pumps are known to go bad you could pull the HPOP and spin the gear and make sure the case don't spin






You still Have a
P2623 – Injection Control Pressure Regulator Open
In Play Ideally it would have been resolved before teardown


if you sure YOU didn't cause P2623 then its a Threat

 

Do I need to take the cover off of the HPOP to isolate the discharge line?

Do you have a link to deadhead the pump? I will start looking at the youtube videos.

I only started to unhook things to get ready for tomorrow morning. I did notice a small coolant leak around the thermostat area as well.

Thanks,

Rob

 

I also forgot to mention that the discharge was replaced two years ago when I did the head gaskets. I know that doesn't rule it out but my thinking is that it be lower on the list.

Appreciate any direction

Rob

 

Link in Post #25
Its a longer thread But theres a lot of good info Given by everyone


If the pump is bad should blow bubbles into the oil filter


well its a IPR or HPOP or Both unless a Seal from before was tweeked and now leaks IDK


IPR needs resolved unless you can Positively ID 2 Problems

 

Check the Main Harness PIN to PIN on IPR Circuit for continuity


And for continuity to Ground should be Open

 

WIRE DIAGRAMS
https://www.ford-trucks.com/ford-man...%20diagram.pdf


The PCM called IPR circuit out


Could be as simple as unplug & replug in harness

 

So this morning I did another leak test at 220 psi and deadheaded the system. I could watch the gauge go down. This tells me that I have a leak in the high pressure system.


So I started to tear everything down and was surprised how much crap was on the screen below the oil cooler. I have a picture which I will try and post afterwards. Once I had the oil cooler out I tried another leak test and watched where the screen would normally sit and didn't see any bubbles.


However I did feel some air lightly coming out of the oil return hole that is on the driver's side. It wasn't much but enough that if I plugged it with my thumb it would go "
puff" when I took my thumb off. I will try to get a photo up soon.


I then took the cover off the HPOP and quickly used a rubber tipped air gun to see if there was a leak on the discharge pipe connection and couldn't see anything.


I guess my next step is to make an adapter at work in the shop to add air to the discharge pipe separately and deadhead it and see if I can find a leak. My thoughts are that if it deadheads ok the high pressure lines are alright.


I am also going to take the HPOP and have a good look at it at work as well.


Am I going in the right direction? Any advice would really help me.


Thanks,


Rob

 

Attached is a photo showing my screen which is below the oil cooler. I was surprised at the stuff on the screen as this was replaced/upgraded two years ago when I did the the head gaskets. I am a big stickler for maintaining proper oil changes and using the correct oil filter.

I have also attached a picture with a yellow circle showing where I could feel a bit of air coming out when I had the oil cooler out and the HPOP pressurized to 220 psi. It wasn't much air coming out and I think that this is a return passage to the main part of the motor. This isn't my actual motor as it shows the heads off as well.


If this is correct this would point me to a leak from the HPOP pump or O rings on the cover?

I am also going to deadhead the high pressure lines this week and will post my findings as well.

Thanks,

Rob

 

So I finally had a chance to do some more pressure testing and he is what I found:
I made some blocks up to be able to hook up air to the high pressure line coming off the HPOP. I then deadheaded 220 psi and watched the gauge. It went down about 20 psi after about 7-10 minutes so I think that this part of system is OK.

I then machined a pair of blocks to pressure test the pump itself. I immediately heard air coming out behind the drive gear. So I assume that my pump has a leak!! I have started to take it apart to see if there is any way to repair this and will post some findings later.

Rob

 

chunks of brass behind plug


I just did an 04 that had a weird start run die 3x in am for months, then no start one day. Found hp pump bad I pulled the big snap ring at the rear and found chunks of brass. Threw a pump in it, and she fired right up. Heres a pic of what I found.

 

I have a bit of a dopey question. I'm putting my ipr valve back in on an early on Excursion 6.0 and every time I get it tightened down the electrical plug is pointing right at my high pressure oil rail so I can't connect it. I have taken it out and put it back 3 times every time it tightens up in the same spot though. What am I missing?

 

You should be able to spin the solenoid and clock it where you need it.

 

I finally quit being dumb. Thank you FiznUKa.

 

Hi All,
I thought I would finally provide some updates:

I ended up buying a reman pump and had it installed/finished yesterday and the Ex is now running.
The numbers at idle hot are:
ICP 595
IPR 23.1%
SYC 1

I tried to take my old pump apart figuring since I work in a big machine shop I should be able to rebuild it and have attached a photo of my results. I guess you win some and lose some. I will provide any information here once I get things apart and have a better look.

I do have one small problem and maybe some one could provide some direction.

It does not seem to have the same get up and go and I made sure that everything is hooked up and I have no codes showing either. When I punch it down it doesn't take off. I will be looking at this this week and hope to report something positive.

Thanks,
Rob

 

Was the outter case always broke