2000 7.3 fuel system
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2000 7.3 fuel system
I am purchasing a regulated return and fuel bowl delete this weekend. I want to upgrade my entire fuel system (from the tank to the fuel bow delete). I need a filtration system and upgraded pump . Are there any kits I can buy . If so where and if not what individual pumps and filters should I look into. I am doing a gtp38r international up pipes and 238cc 80% injectors. Stock head and block(forged rods) . I'm doing the adrenaline hpop . What other hpo upgrades should I look into ? I'm newish to 7.3s I've owned a 6.4 and a 6.6 dmax . Got tired of paying a bill every month to drive a truck so I bought a 2000 f2 4x4 crew cab srwsb . Please give me some advice on my build . Money is not an issue I don't want to take shortcuts. I'm looking to make the fuel and oil capable of 500hp+ but only plan on 450ish hp due to I'm not doing head studs of valve tran atm . I've seen how this site can be and I don't want my thread to turn into a bunch of guys arguing over there opinions lol . Thanks again for yals help I'm currently working in Lake Charles Louisiana if anyone is around this area is available and knowledgeable hit me up 6015145307
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
Kits can be expensive, and you can sometimes save serious money by piecing it together on your own. However, the hidden cost of taking that approach is having to step away from the fast food "I gotta have it NOW!" mentality. It takes a little more research and patience to compile your parts, but in my own opinion, you know and understand your system much better in the end by doing it all yourself.
As you seek to upgrade "from the tank to the fuel bowl delete", what exactly are you planning at the tank?
I assume that you are either going to or have already done the in-tank Harpoon & Hutch mods?
Either way, I know from having dropped and cleaned the tank in my Excursion this past weekend that the 3/8 fuel pump suction tubing coming out of the tank is a little misleading. The tip of that tubing has rolled edges (I assume for easier insertion into the stock quick connect fitting), so the actual opening coming out of the tank is only something like 1/4". The fix is simple... just grind or snip off the tip of this tubing and you end up with a more "open" fuel suction line.
The real point, though is what your endpoint fuel consumption will be. It's my understanding that the stock fuel pump will support up to something a tad over 500 HP without modification. That being the case, the cheapest way to help the pump even more is to open up that tube coming out of the top of the tank.
Aside from that, as you get into the fuel line fittings on the heads, you can certainly open up those fittings, but again, I'm not sure you really need it at the HP levels you've mentioned.
There are others who know even more details about what you'll need, and I'm sure they will be chiming in soon.
As you seek to upgrade "from the tank to the fuel bowl delete", what exactly are you planning at the tank?
I assume that you are either going to or have already done the in-tank Harpoon & Hutch mods?
Either way, I know from having dropped and cleaned the tank in my Excursion this past weekend that the 3/8 fuel pump suction tubing coming out of the tank is a little misleading. The tip of that tubing has rolled edges (I assume for easier insertion into the stock quick connect fitting), so the actual opening coming out of the tank is only something like 1/4". The fix is simple... just grind or snip off the tip of this tubing and you end up with a more "open" fuel suction line.
The real point, though is what your endpoint fuel consumption will be. It's my understanding that the stock fuel pump will support up to something a tad over 500 HP without modification. That being the case, the cheapest way to help the pump even more is to open up that tube coming out of the top of the tank.
Aside from that, as you get into the fuel line fittings on the heads, you can certainly open up those fittings, but again, I'm not sure you really need it at the HP levels you've mentioned.
There are others who know even more details about what you'll need, and I'm sure they will be chiming in soon.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
Kits can be expensive, and you can sometimes save serious money by piecing it together on your own. However, the hidden cost of taking that approach is having to step away from the fast food "I gotta have it NOW!" mentality. It takes a little more research and patience to compile your parts, but in my own opinion, you know and understand your system much better in the end by doing it all yourself.
As you seek to upgrade "from the tank to the fuel bowl delete", what exactly are you planning at the tank?
I assume that you are either going to or have already done the in-tank Harpoon & Hutch mods?
Either way, I know from having dropped and cleaned the tank in my Excursion this past weekend that the 3/8 fuel pump suction tubing coming out of the tank is a little misleading. The tip of that tubing has rolled edges (I assume for easier insertion into the stock quick connect fitting), so the actual opening coming out of the tank is only something like 1/4". The fix is simple... just grind or snip off the tip of this tubing and you end up with a more "open" fuel suction line.
The real point, though is what your endpoint fuel consumption will be. It's my understanding that the stock fuel pump will support up to something a tad over 500 HP without modification. That being the case, the cheapest way to help the pump even more is to open up that tube coming out of the top of the tank.
Aside from that, as you get into the fuel line fittings on the heads, you can certainly open up those fittings, but again, I'm not sure you really need it at the HP levels you've mentioned.
There are others who know even more details about what you'll need, and I'm sure they will be chiming in soon.
As you seek to upgrade "from the tank to the fuel bowl delete", what exactly are you planning at the tank?
I assume that you are either going to or have already done the in-tank Harpoon & Hutch mods?
Either way, I know from having dropped and cleaned the tank in my Excursion this past weekend that the 3/8 fuel pump suction tubing coming out of the tank is a little misleading. The tip of that tubing has rolled edges (I assume for easier insertion into the stock quick connect fitting), so the actual opening coming out of the tank is only something like 1/4". The fix is simple... just grind or snip off the tip of this tubing and you end up with a more "open" fuel suction line.
The real point, though is what your endpoint fuel consumption will be. It's my understanding that the stock fuel pump will support up to something a tad over 500 HP without modification. That being the case, the cheapest way to help the pump even more is to open up that tube coming out of the top of the tank.
Aside from that, as you get into the fuel line fittings on the heads, you can certainly open up those fittings, but again, I'm not sure you really need it at the HP levels you've mentioned.
There are others who know even more details about what you'll need, and I'm sure they will be chiming in soon.
I have done absolutely nothing to the fuel system . I do plan on doing the hutch mod as you said and snipping the flair(tthanks for the tip). I guess my main concern is now filtration . I'm deleting the fuel bowl. So how would I incorporate a adequate filter. And I will purchase a new Bosch pump since it is capable of my hp goal.
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
For filtration, a lot of us commonly install a new pre-pump strainer between the pump and the tank, and the Racor PS120 has become the unit of choice because it is easy on the pump while still straining out anything that will not pass through the built-in 72 mesh screen inside the pump suction housing. The PS120 also has a clear bowl so you can see if it is getting trashy or if you're sucking in air anywhere, and the bowl screws off for easy cleaning... no filter elements to be replacing periodically.
As for filtration between the pump and the tank, I think you're going to have to do something with your Water in Fuel connector, but I honestly don;t know how to address that particular issue. As for filtration itself, you'll need to use something which filters down in the 2 micron range. Racor makes a huge line of diesel fuel filtration units, so I'm sure that you can find an aftermarket setup somewhere, and probably even with a built-in heater!
As for filtration between the pump and the tank, I think you're going to have to do something with your Water in Fuel connector, but I honestly don;t know how to address that particular issue. As for filtration itself, you'll need to use something which filters down in the 2 micron range. Racor makes a huge line of diesel fuel filtration units, so I'm sure that you can find an aftermarket setup somewhere, and probably even with a built-in heater!
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2016
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For filtration, a lot of us commonly install a new pre-pump strainer between the pump and the tank, and the Racor PS120 has become the unit of choice because it is easy on the pump while still straining out anything that will not pass through the built-in 72 mesh screen inside the pump suction housing. The PS120 also has a clear bowl so you can see if it is getting trashy or if you're sucking in air anywhere, and the bowl screws off for easy cleaning... no filter elements to be replacing periodically.
As for filtration between the pump and the tank, I think you're going to have to do something with your Water in Fuel connector, but I honestly don;t know how to address that particular issue. As for filtration itself, you'll need to use something which filters down in the 2 micron range. Racor makes a huge line of diesel fuel filtration units, so I'm sure that you can find an aftermarket setup somewhere, and probably even with a built-in heater!
As for filtration between the pump and the tank, I think you're going to have to do something with your Water in Fuel connector, but I honestly don;t know how to address that particular issue. As for filtration itself, you'll need to use something which filters down in the 2 micron range. Racor makes a huge line of diesel fuel filtration units, so I'm sure that you can find an aftermarket setup somewhere, and probably even with a built-in heater!
As far as installation of these filters . Do I cut the factory fuel lines along the inside of the frame rail and install the filter unit ?
Hotshot
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 11,286
Likes: 263
From: North of Greenville
Lemme see... from reading your posts, you're a "pipe welder" and you qualify as being a "professional installer/mechanic" for plenums. Yet, you seem to be continuing to ask fairly basic questions. I'm getting an impression you're just having fun spinning words and wasting other folks' time. Who knows... maybe I'm wrong about that, but it's the same impression you've already given several other members on here for whom I have the highest regard.
If really you want to learn this stuff, use the search engine for the topics you're interested in, READ and think about the input already posted throughout this site, and then come back with questions once you've got the basics under your belt.
If really you want to learn this stuff, use the search engine for the topics you're interested in, READ and think about the input already posted throughout this site, and then come back with questions once you've got the basics under your belt.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 321
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Lemme see... from reading your posts, you're a "pipe welder" and you qualify as being a "professional installer/mechanic" for plenums. Yet, you seem to be continuing to ask fairly basic questions. I'm getting an impression you're just having fun spinning words and wasting other folks' time. Who knows... maybe I'm wrong about that, but it's the same impression you've already given several other members on here for whom I have the highest regard.
If really you want to learn this stuff, use the search engine for the topics you're interested in, READ and think about the input already posted throughout this site, and then come back with questions once you've got the basics under your belt.
If really you want to learn this stuff, use the search engine for the topics you're interested in, READ and think about the input already posted throughout this site, and then come back with questions once you've got the basics under your belt.
I guess I'm not 100% on how this thing works. But I did just order a driven diesel fuel bowl delete / regulated return and a fass titanium series 125 GPH 55PSI fuel air separator
. Next week it's injectors and the week after turbo and then hpop and so on . I'm going to post pictures and videos along the way . Sorry to pissied everyone off . I guess I need to understand that people take this site to serious sometimes .
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Logistics Pro
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More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 521
Likes: 16
You want 500hp...
230/100's
38R or a KC-38R
MB Diesel HPOP
4" turbo back
Intake
Tuning...
Get a fuel pressure gauge, but more then likely the factory fuel system with a few simple mods will supply the fuel you need for 230cc injectors. At worst, do the in tank mods and a regulated return.
230/100's
38R or a KC-38R
MB Diesel HPOP
4" turbo back
Intake
Tuning...
Get a fuel pressure gauge, but more then likely the factory fuel system with a few simple mods will supply the fuel you need for 230cc injectors. At worst, do the in tank mods and a regulated return.
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 521
Likes: 16
I guess I'm not 100% on how this thing works. But I did just order a driven diesel fuel bowl delete / regulated return and a fass titanium series 125 GPH 55PSI fuel air separator . Next week it's injectors and the week after turbo and then hpop and so on . I'm going to post pictures and videos along the way . Sorry to pissied everyone off . I guess I need to understand that people take this site to serious sometimes .
. Next week it's injectors and the week after turbo and then hpop and so on . I'm going to post pictures and videos along the way . Sorry to pissied everyone off . I guess I need to understand that people take this site to serious sometimes .
More Turbo
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 521
Likes: 16
You have simply not taken the time to read.
The FACTORY fuel pump is one of the best pumps on the market. They will typically out last the truck.
Do a regulated return, leave the rest alone, install what ever injectors you decide on and then check the fuel pressure under load. If your dropping below 50psi, then add a second pump and a 1/2 or 5/8" supply line.
If your stuck on running some big name fuel pump, then get a Fuel Lab pump.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 321
Likes: 0
This forum is about 3% arguments, 15% repetitive information and 82% good info...
You have simply not taken the time to read.
The FACTORY fuel pump is one of the best pumps on the market. They will typically out last the truck.
Do a regulated return, leave the rest alone, install what ever injectors you decide on and then check the fuel pressure under load. If your dropping below 50psi, then add a second pump and a 1/2 or 5/8" supply line.
If your stuck on running some big name fuel pump, then get a Fuel Lab pump.
You have simply not taken the time to read.
The FACTORY fuel pump is one of the best pumps on the market. They will typically out last the truck.
Do a regulated return, leave the rest alone, install what ever injectors you decide on and then check the fuel pressure under load. If your dropping below 50psi, then add a second pump and a 1/2 or 5/8" supply line.
If your stuck on running some big name fuel pump, then get a Fuel Lab pump.