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Under $100 with fittings, hoses and a DIY bracket. At our flow rates, this is a pretty effective water separator and combined with OE or an aftermarket post-pump primary filter/separator is more than sufficient. Unless you plan to pump trash into your your tank...
Do the 'in-tank mods' and put this in front of the OE pump. There is nothing at all wrong with the stock fuel filter. In fact, there is nothing wrong with the deadheaded fuel system - you will never know the difference between it and the $1000 you are trying to spend to replace it (with something less durable/reliable).
A fuel pressure gauge will tell you if you're able to supply enough fuel.
If you are dead set on Regulated Return, I have a new-in-box kit with SS hoses I'll make you a deal on. It came with a bunch of other goodies I bought awhile back...
This is all you need to do in-tank (besides snip the filler tube) You just need a 3/8" compression union and a piece of tubing. I use alum tubing and put a 90* bend on the end so I can put it directly on the bottom of the tank.
For those with stock injectors, the WIX 33972 is a fine pre-pump filter/strainer for under $20 with hose, clamps and filter. I do these all the time and never have any trouble.
This looks very simple . Can you explain exactly what you did in the picture . I'm going to copy you . I just got rained out so it's truck time . I am going to order 238cc 100% hybrids for swap right now! Kc38r next week! ! I'll make a build thread .
For filtration, a lot of us commonly install a new pre-pump strainer between the pump and the tank, and the Racor PS120 has become the unit of choice because it is easy on the pump while still straining out anything that will not pass through the built-in 72 mesh screen inside the pump suction housing. The PS120 also has a clear bowl so you can see if it is getting trashy or if you're sucking in air anywhere, and the bowl screws off for easy cleaning... no filter elements to be replacing periodically.
As for filtration between the pump and the tank, I think you're going to have to do something with your Water in Fuel connector, but I honestly don;t know how to address that particular issue. As for filtration itself, you'll need to use something which filters down in the 2 micron range. Racor makes a huge line of diesel fuel filtration units, so I'm sure that you can find an aftermarket setup somewhere, and probably even with a built-in heater!
In your last paragraph did you mean to say pump to regulated return.
Here is the deal... Fuel pumps are made to push fuel, not pull it...
Do a 20-30 micron pre pump filter/water seperator. Then a 2 micron filter after the pump.
All the pre-pump filter does is keep the big crap out.
Put too much restriction prepump... bye bye pump.
Why is everyone so against a fass system? I was thinking of buying a reg return from Cory@cnc it retains the stock fuel bowl and is a 4 line feed
. Do the hutch mod and it would be a really simple setup . I've been reading where people are make 1000hp 7.3s with the fass. What's the deal ?
This looks very simple . Can you explain exactly what you did in the picture . I'm going to copy you . I just got rained out so it's truck time . I am going to order 238cc 100% hybrids for swap right now! Kc38r next week! ! I'll make a build thread .
You'll take the mixing chamber, strainers and umbrella off the factory pick-up, then add a piece of tubing using a 3/8" compression union. I just cut the return hose in the middle of the bend and point it down and in the opposite direction from the pick-up. Some people do more with return, but this works just fine.
Then, plumb Racor PS120 between pump and tank. Use 3/8" 30R9 or equivalent 'fuel injection hose' from tank to PS120 and 5/16" hose from PS120 to pump. Only use fuel injection hose clamps.
For those injectors and turbo, you will not likely see any gains by changing the stock fuel system beyond the above. Many will argue you 'need' to modify it, but very few have run stock fuel systems - so they don't know. Monitor fuel pressure post-filter(s) and make changes if needed. Even those who run dual SD fuel pumps actually seldom need 2nd pump. (The PS120 makes plumbing 2nd pump easy. )
Originally Posted by biggdirty7.3
I haven't figured out how to read sign and whatnot
Probably no signature if you're looking at a phone...
Joe may be cranky in his old age, but he is very wise and gives good advice.
You'll take the mixing chamber, strainers and umbrella off the factory pick-up, then add a piece of tubing using a 3/8" compression union. I just cut the return hose in the middle of the bend and point it down and in the opposite direction from the pick-up. Some people do more with return, but this works just fine.
Then, plumb Racor PS120 between pump and tank. Use 3/8" 30R9 or equivalent 'fuel injection hose' from tank to PS120 and 5/16" hose from PS120 to pump. Only use fuel injection hose clamps.
For those injectors and turbo, you will not likely see any gains by changing the stock fuel system beyond the above. Many will argue you 'need' to modify it, but very few have run stock fuel systems - so they don't know. Monitor fuel pressure post-filter(s) and make changes if needed. Even those who run dual SD fuel pumps actually seldom need 2nd pump. (The PS120 makes plumbing 2nd pump easy. )
Probably no signature if you're looking at a phone...
Joe may be cranky in his old age, but he is very wise and gives good advice.
10 4 thanks for your input . The price of a new Bosch is as much as a fass system. Why does everyone dislike the fass
10 4 thanks for your input . The price of a new Bosch is as much as a fass system. Why does everyone dislike the fass
It's my experience in the Cummins crowd that fass is the one to have and not AirDog. I myself run an AirDog 150 with a 2 micron filter and have been running it for a couple years on the 6 cylinder with no issues. I'm on the verge of needing it but could do without.
Why exactly do you want a 450-500 hp? It really doesn't net you much in a 8k pound truck. Just a lot of headache... them again I'm no better
It's my experience in the Cummins crowd that fass is the one to have and not AirDog. I myself run an AirDog 150 with a 2 micron filter and have been running it for a couple years on the 6 cylinder with no issues. I'm on the verge of needing it but could do without.
Why exactly do you want a 450-500 hp? It really doesn't net you much in a 8k pound truck. Just a lot of headache... them again I'm no better
Where I live we have a big truck seen . I basically want to be able to run like my 6.4 did with a mini max
Good luck with that... the 7.3 will never spool anything like a 6.4 or have near the usable power. You're playing in the wrong pond. As I said in your other thread $10k is going to be a drop in the bucket...
Yep a HEUI engine will not be able to perform like a common rail without some really deep pockets. If that is your ultimate goal, you may want to reconsider the platform you are using. Buying another truck may pale in comparison to the cost of what you want to try and get out of the 7.3
Good luck with that... the 7.3 will never spool anything like a 6.4 or have near the usable power. You're playing in the wrong pond. As I said in your other thread $10k is going to be a drop in the bucket...
10 4 thanks for your input . The price of a new Bosch is as much as a fass system. Why does everyone dislike the fass
I run the Airtex (OE-type) pump. It comes with a lifetime warranty for $120 or so. I haven't had one fail yet, but the furthest I'd have to go is the nearest autoparts if I needed one. You can find the Bosch pumps for $150.
FASS is just overpriced and over-rated. The OE-style pumps are workhorses. My factory pump has over 400k miles on it and I've been at almost 400hp for 200k miles.
Trying to keep up with the newer trucks is expensive. But you surely can wow the dieselers in your area by buying lots of expensive parts! Good luck and keep us posted!!
I'm building a couple 7.3's right now that should be well over 500hp daily driver/work trucks. They include:
- full bottom end rebuild with decked head surfaces, line bored, etc
- ported, polished and flow matched heads
- delipped and coated pistons
- multi-angle valve job with new valves, shimmed 910 springs, etc
- Stage 1 cam
- main and head studs
- MB Diesel HPOP and CNC fab HPO hoses
- 250/100's
- gated T4/S369ftw (for FAST spool with 6spd)
- rebuilt ZF6
- SB dual-disc clutch
- Hydra with Gearhead tunes
- Riffraff plenum inserts, CAC boots and clamps
- plenty more...
All of this is approaching $20k and I still wouldn't consider it a competitor among any of the newest deleted and tuned trucks. But, a powerful 7.3 with a 6spd is sooooo much fun to drive it won't matter if they are keeping up with the Jones's!!!!
I cannot argue that a 500 hp 7.3 will not be fun. I decided that with my budget a couple of years ago that I would never be happy with the power level the 7.3 makes. I had a very similar list compiled in my head as skyskijason is building now for my old 7.3.
I thought for sure that I would be happy with that... until I borrowed a friend's 5.9 cummins for a week. I was astonished by the USABLE POWER that thing made, not to mention the economy numbers when driven properly.
It was then that I started looking around and doing as much research as possible on the little 6 cylinders.
I will say that I did manage to get more cash out of my 7.3 then most people would be able to.
I found the right truck to replace the 7.3 with. I will admit that it did cost me a little more cash going the route that I did but budget is not always a concern when spending that kind of cash.
My signature says what I decided to do. I can get 20+ mpg (HAND CALCULATED) if i drive for mileage with an all time best of 22.24 mpg. I can also laugh at a Mustang GT when I crank it up. The hp and TQ numbers in my signature are in my economy mode... I have 2 higher power level tunes above that that I don't use. In addition to that I can hook up a 3 car gooseneck car hauler loaded and never have to worry about egts or if I'm going to have enough power to merge onto the expressway....
A built 7.3 that will hang with the common rail crowd can be had... it'll just cost more than its worth. As I said before $10k is a drop in the bucket to get there
I cannot argue that a 500 hp 7.3 will not be fun. I decided that with my budget a couple of years ago that I would never be happy with the power level the 7.3 makes. I had a very similar list compiled in my head as skyskijason is building now for my old 7.3.
I thought for sure that I would be happy with that... until I borrowed a friend's 5.9 cummins for a week. I was astonished by the USABLE POWER that thing made, not to mention the economy numbers when driven properly.
It was then that I started looking around and doing as much research as possible on the little 6 cylinders.
I will say that I did manage to get more cash out of my 7.3 then most people would be able to.
I found the right truck to replace the 7.3 with. I will admit that it did cost me a little more cash going the route that I did but budget is not always a concern when spending that kind of cash.
My signature says what I decided to do. I can get 20+ mpg (HAND CALCULATED) if i drive for mileage with an all time best of 22.24 mpg. I can also laugh at a Mustang GT when I crank it up. The hp and TQ numbers in my signature are in my economy mode... I have 2 higher power level tunes above that that I don't use. In addition to that I can hook up a 3 car gooseneck car hauler loaded and never have to worry about egts or if I'm going to have enough power to merge onto the expressway....
A built 7.3 that will hang with the common rail crowd can be had... it'll just cost more than its worth. As I said before $10k is a drop in the bucket to get there
I can't see sigs as I'm on my phone at work . And I absolutely like a cummins the problem is a Dodge is the mos ugly looking thing I have ever seen (no offense ) I am a Chevy guy by nature but I got a really good deal on my current truck . I managed to pick up my truck (2000 7.3 138k miles srwsb 4x4 lariate) for 5k the trans is a reman hd . It was gold and got a horrible black paint job and the bed on the passanger side has a huge dent that was fixed and then hit again . But I managed to pick up a spotless 06 bed for $500 in new Orleans . I have yet to put it on . Waiting for my hutch mod stuff . I put steel 2"spacers on it and 2006 18s with 35×12.50s . I've put an flow pro full t back exhaust banks big head wg actuator TS 6 position custom s&b and guages billet thermo housing 8" mbrp tip and about every sensor on the engine. I run archoil fuel mod and oil i did trans filter and pulled the rear dif cover . Fixed all the little oil leaks replaced the fuel bowl drain. I want to make a fast truck I can drive daily that's easy on the eyes. My plan is 238cc 100's with a gtp38r. Hutch mod . corey@cncs fuel bowl retaining 4 feed regulated return. New up pipes with the turbo . And a really good set of tunes on my ts . That's really all I want is a "quick " 7.3 that is PAID FOR! I really miss my 6.4 it was decked out king ranch leveld 35s deleted and tuned and ran amazing had 144k miles . But it was too late for her . The regeneration mode prior to the delet had put so much fuel in the oil the guy that had it before I neglected it and the main bearing had been scared and it locked up .I rolled my 2011 duramax 8" lift 37s beautiful truck . I was bad off on oxytocin and xanax and rolled it going 70 on I 10 between new orleans and Pascagoula Mississippi. But yea I'm happy I don't have to pay a not and I enjoy the hell out of my 7.3 . It's very primetive . It does what I need . I can afford a new 6.7 or 6.6 . But I enjoy the experience of a somewhat classic truck . I mean it all started with the powerstroke . Oh and it's cool to know I own an international t444e the same engine in the school bus that takes my kids to and from school lol
The regeneration mode prior to the delet had put so much fuel in the oil the guy that had it before I neglected it and the main bearing had been scared and it locked up
I wanted to quote you here just to prove to you what gave away that you have absolutely no idea what you're talking about.