Removable cross member.

Reply Subscribe

Thread Tools

Search this Thread

May 31, 2016 | 03:45 AM

RORZA

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: May 2016

Posts: 39

Likes: 0

Removable cross member.

Anybody have a pic of removable cross member on a chassis for an automatic trans, which on removal enables the transmission to be removed rearward, leaving the engine in place. The member between the strut bush brackets. Not the rear one that holds the trans mount. Thankyou. Rory.

May 31, 2016 | 05:27 AM

jowilker

Fleet Owner

Joined: Jun 1999

Posts: 24,552

Likes: 74

From: Creedmoor, North Carolina

Rory Welcome to

and the Slicks Forum.

When I switched my 3 spd to C6 I reused the support, sliding it on the frame drilling new holes and bolting it back.

John

May 31, 2016 | 05:42 AM

RORZA

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: May 2016

Posts: 39

Likes: 0

Thankyou. Jowilker. trans bell will not fit between cross member and cab floor. Heard talk U.S. auto trans frames had a removable crossmember. The member between the I beam strut brackets. Either C6 or C4.

May 31, 2016 | 06:34 AM

carras

Tuned

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 413

Likes: 0

you can grind off the rivets to remove the crossmember and then use bolts to reinstall. Reuse the same crossmember with bolts.

Getting the bell housing to clear the radius arm mounts will require some jockeying around

May 31, 2016 | 06:59 AM

NumberDummy

Ford Parts Specialist

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 88,826

Likes: 784

From: Simi Valley, CA

Quote:

Originally Posted by RORZA

Look at this upper (lower) frame pic for 6A023 which is the rear engine support bracket (that some peeps call a cross member).

On 1965/ F100/250 2WD's with A/T & M/T and ditto 1966/ F100 4WD's, this bracket bolts on.

Lower (lower) pic of engine/trans mounts shows a close up of 6A023

Attached Images

May 31, 2016 | 08:23 AM

carras

Tuned

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 413

Likes: 0

when the OP mentioned bellhousing, I assumed the item labeled 5025. This is the "crossmember" that's I mention in my response. I had to grind off the rivets and replace with bolts in order to get my C6 in and out.

May 31, 2016 | 04:14 PM

jowilker

Fleet Owner

Joined: Jun 1999

Posts: 24,552

Likes: 74

From: Creedmoor, North Carolina

Quote:

Originally Posted by RORZA

OK, I was speaking of the rear cross member. You have a truck that was a manual shift from the factory. I had the same issue, the rivets have to come out and replaced with bolts so the crossmember can be removed for tranny movement.

John

Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer

Joe Kucinski

2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)

Brett Foote

Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies

Joe Kucinski

AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make

Brett Foote

Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!

Michael S. Palmer

Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home

Verdad Gallardo

10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!

Joe Kucinski

2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?

Brett Foote

2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!

Michael S. Palmer

10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!

Joe Kucinski

May 31, 2016 | 09:23 PM

carras

Tuned

Joined: Jul 2004

Posts: 413

Likes: 0

Removing the rivets and replacing them with Grade 8 bolts is probably easier and will keep everything structurally equivalent. The radius arm mounts will not move because you don't need to remove the rivets that hold the mounts to the frame rails.

May 31, 2016 | 10:26 PM

#10

RORZA

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: May 2016

Posts: 39

Likes: 0

Understood. Thank you for the replies. Makes task far easier than removing engine.

Jun 1, 2016 | 04:36 AM

#11

Crop Duster

Logistics Pro

Joined: May 2015

Posts: 4,466

Likes: 959

From: Tri Cities, TN

Cross Member

Quote:

Originally Posted by RORZA

I have some recent experience with this on my truck. The two pictures show two ways to do it. The first is to cut the rivets and replace them with bolts. If you do it this way to remove it you have to remove the cross member at the trans mount also. The second way is to make it two piece. Which has advantages if you want to just remove the pan without a lot of disassembly, because it will come out without removing the cross member at the trans mount. I left mine one piece and just keeping my fingers crossed that I don't have to remove the pan for any reason.

Attached Images

Jun 1, 2016 | 05:09 AM

#12

RORZA

Thread Starter

Freshman User

Joined: May 2016

Posts: 39

Likes: 0

Crop duster. Thank you. I intend to make two cuts and remove all of the horizontal part of the crossmember. Weld joining piece, as you have done, at each end and bolt to crossmember stubs. Maybe with a crossmember from another frame, cut longer to overlap cutout and positioned on top of and bolt to original crossmember stubs. Did factory finally wake up and make later frames with removable crossmember to ease trans removal? Thank you all for your replies.

Jun 3, 2016 | 01:00 AM

#13

The Masked Rider

Posting Guru

Joined: Jan 2011

Posts: 1,670

Likes: 8

Make sure your frame is level at 4 corners when removing and replacing cross members.

Jun 7, 2016 | 02:46 PM

#14

Old Coyote

Senior User

Joined: May 2012

Posts: 315

Likes: 0

It's a piece of cake to grind those studs off the top of that 5025 crossmember with the cab off, a whole other thing with the cab on there. Not much room. By the time I was done I wished I had lifted the cab enough to get the damn tranny out and back in.