Everything is ready to go, I think, but want to check on the sequence for actually getting it outta there.
What's leaving me wondering is getting the crossmember out of the way. How's that done since the the bracket on the back of the trans slips down over the crossmember. I'm obviously missing something. Crossmember bolts are out and except for the trans sitting on it it seems it could come out.
So just need to know what is obvious that I'm missing?? Thanks. Vic

 

Been awhile since I pulled my 435 outta there, but as I remember, there are the bolts in the bottom frame rail, then there are side brackets which span up to the top frame rail. Have you gotten all of these bolts? Have you d/c'd the trans mount? After that, I remember there being a whole lot of work with a stout hammer to knock it out of position.

 

So I'm correct to assume that because of the U-shaped bracket on the trans, which captures the cross member, the trans and cross member have to be moved back together.

 

Any pictures of the questionable area?

 

Yup, below. It's a project truck and the PO let it go pretty bad. The rear main leaked so long the dirt and oil caked up pretty bad. One spot in particular hid the bolts under that flange on either side. Once I chiseled, not much of an exaggeration either, off the crud and removed the bolts I could move the cross member back with the help of a lead hammer.
Live and learn. Thanks for the replies cuz they helped me focus on where the hang-up had to be.

 

Hi,

Place a Tranny jack under the tranny and lift it as high as required to clear the "U" shaped bracket at the rear, then remove the bracket.

This how I did the last time I had to remove a 435.

Be careful,... that Tranny weighs a ton!!!

Good luck

 

I just did this on Sunday. I removed both crossmembers, the rear most as Lee described. You will have to keep the transmission supported once you start this process.

 

Here is a way to hold the trans up... and then try once the trans is up and off the cross member "persuade" it to go fwd as much as possible and then "flat prop it". Meaning laying under it try to spin it clockwise or counter clockwise.

Here is the tool to get the shift lever retainer cap off.

NP435 = aluminum top cover w/8 bolts
T-18 = cast iron top cover w/6 bolts
Warranty Plate TRANS code: A = NP435 (N-1965 only) / F = Warner T-18 / P = F350 Warner T-19.
Warner shift lever retainer cap (8MTH-7220) threads on/off.
NP435 shift lever retainer cap (B8T-7220-D) has two notches, is retained to shift tower by two pins.
To remove this cap, it must be pressed down (with the board) and held down while turning it counter clock wise to remove it.

Its spring loaded and twists into place, we removed one and it was a 2 person job. Put the trans into 2nd, 4th, or reverse, then one person holds the cap and applies pressure, twisting in a counter clockwise direction.

The other person hits it from the top ( the board) with a hammer to get the cap to go in below the two clips that hold it in. People unaware use pliers or channel locks to remove it, which tears out the pins.