2004 3.0L Ranger Edge, 88,000 miles on it, I am the original owner.
It won't start. It cranks strongly. Usually when this happens, I have to reset the fuel pump inertia switch. This time, resetting the switch does not help. I disconnected the switch and jumped the two wires going to it, but still no start. The switch seems to work ok, in that I can reset it (a ball, spring, and magnet mechanism, I think), then shake it and the ball will come loose.
The fuel pump 20A fuse in the engine compartment is good. The fuel pump relay in the engine compartment is good (I switched it out with an identical relay that runs the fog lights without problem).
I am getting spark.
I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but pressing in the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail produces gas.
Usually, when the inertia switch is tripped I can get the engine to briefly start by using starter fluid in the air intake. But not this time.
I do not hear the fuel pump kicking in when I turn the ignition key to the "On" position, and that would lead me to think that the pump is bad. Except, I don't get a brief start using starter fluid.
The fuel filter has never been changed, but again, since I get no start with starter fluid, I don't see how that could be the problem.
OBDII scan shows no codes.
I'd sure appreciate some suggestions.....

 

If you spray starting fluid and no start I would check and make sure the plugs or coils are firing,,,, no gas , no spark , no start !!!!!

 

I get spark. See original post.

 

a friend of mine had same problem with a 2.5L and it had blown head gasket between to cyclinders and he found it with a home made compression checker made with a gauge and some airline hose and a nipple that fit the plug hole ,,,,,it just would not run on the two good ones ,,,,,both middle ones had no compression because of the gasket

 

mike s:I don't have a fuel pressure gauge but pressing in the Schraeder valve on the fuel rail produces gas.

How much? Can you repeat the test and still have good pressure? You may have seen residual pressure. OTOH, adding starting fluid had no effect. I would remove the gas cap, and listen for the pump to run its prime sequence at key ON. If it does not, get a gauge, possibly borrow from an auto parts store, and check pressure and delivery volume.
You may have gotten the timing off. Had you been hearing a squeek when the engine was running? The distributor was replaced by a sensor that goes bad, but I do not know exactly when. They seem to fail due to lack of lube, at which time they quit running the oil pump, and the engine dies.
The crank sensor may also have died. Either of these could put the spark timing way off. You can check using a timing light while cranking the engine. Timing mark is on the left side of the front cover as viewed from the nose of the crankshaft. I think there is a notch in the pulley.
tom

 

I'll get the fuel pressure test gauge when I buy a new fuel filter in a day or two. I think pressure in the fuel line was residual, but I haven't been able to rule out power issues going into the fuel pump. Mainly because I just discovered that the voltage going into (and out of) the inertia switch is just 6.6 volts. Seems abnormal, but I just don't know.
There is supposedly a fuel pump module somewhere on the truck (can't seem to find out where, online), and I suppose I'll want to make sure that's ok before dealing with the fuel pump.
I had ruled out the crank sensor earlier when I read online that a bad one would cause a no spark condition.

 

(Considering that you've done troubleshooting on it already), FWIW, the 2004 models had a recall on the inertia switch. Mine left me stranded once and was replaced under warranty.

 

I didn't know that! But I'm getting 6 vdc with the switch either connected or disconnected. Would still like to know if that's abnormal.