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Idle question

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Old Jun 24, 2016 | 08:39 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by chesster51
There is enough slack in the holes to slightly twist the unit in either direction to change the voltage. One way I could get it down to .8xx and over 1.0 the other way. I've always heard it's best to get as close to 1.0 as possible without going over.
Yup, literally doesn't matter at all as long as its below 1.1 volts or so. On startup, the EEC looks at whatever value the TPS is at, and sets that as the base "idle" voltage.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2016 | 06:50 AM
  #17  
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I'm coming from the Gen 2 Lightning community where it is preached to be as close to 1.0 without going over. Either way, the tps doesn't appear to be my problem.
 
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Old Jun 25, 2016 | 08:46 AM
  #18  
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And the Mustang crowd taught it to them. It's complete BS and has been for years. Reminds me of snipe hunting.....
 
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 08:23 AM
  #19  
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What does it idle at with the IAC disconnected? If it is still in the 1000RPM range, then see if backing off the throttle stop screw will lower the RPM. It is possible that a PO used this to set the idle speed and so your throttle blades are not closing enough.
 
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Old Jun 27, 2016 | 04:33 PM
  #20  
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Well, I feel like I eliminated everything except the throttle body so I ordered a new BBK unit. Even if it turns out not to be the issue, the stocker is 22 yrs old and will need replacing sooner than later. I'll update after installation.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 08:27 AM
  #21  
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Update: High idle in P or N remains and intermittent stumble at idle continues. I have replaced the following: IAC (Motorcraft), TPS (Motorcraft), EVR (Motorcraft), New BBK TB, all plastic vacuum lines replaced. I can hear an intermittent "whistling" at idle and low rpm driving, which seemed to start after the BBK install, so I know there is a vacuum leak somewhere. I tried spraying starting fluid around intake, TB and other suspect places but idle did not change. Vacuum canister was removed and painted and no holes or leaks found. A question about the iAC. When it is unplugged when truck is running, how should the idle respond?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 08:43 AM
  #22  
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With the IAC unplugged the engine should just barely run, possibly even stall. It should run at like 400 RPM or so.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
With the IAC unplugged the engine should just barely run, possibly even stall. It should run at like 400 RPM or so.
X2...
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 01:22 PM
  #24  
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Not sure what to look at next or where the leak may be. Suggestions?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Lead Head
With the IAC unplugged the engine should just barely run, possibly even stall. It should run at like 400 RPM or so.
So I take it that is not the result you have? What is the idle rpm with the IAC unplugged?
 
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Old Aug 7, 2016 | 03:10 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by My4Fordtrucks
So I take it that is not the result you have? What is the idle rpm with the IAC unplugged?
Actually that is what mine does, just didn't know if that was what it's supposed to do.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 09:26 PM
  #27  
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Found the leak and thought I'd follow up on what I found. I made a homemade smoke tester out of a gallon paint can and used some incense for smoke and a small compressor to push the smoke. It was leaking from a place I would have never suspected, from my new Motorcraft IAC, and not from the gasket. The IAC has a metal cylinder that is crimped onto the body and contains the electrical parts and is supposed to be air tight at this seam, but that's where I had smoke coming out. Instead of buying another one I took it off and sealed the seam with silicone and I'll see if that works when I drive to work in the morning. If not, I'll have to replace it. It's been a month long pain in the *** and I hope it's over.
 
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Old Aug 9, 2016 | 10:24 PM
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What a bizarre failure.
 
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