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Old May 19, 2016 | 08:59 PM
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General 6.0 info

So I'm creeping around the forum. What are vein sweeps? I'm having a hard time understanding this stuff. How does the truck relearn strategies after codes cleared? Anyone care to clue me in?
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:26 PM
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I believe you are talking about the turbo vanes. The turbo on the 6.0L is able to perform well at low RPM's and high RPM's because the vanes will adjust the size of the passage. The vanes need to be able to move freely and constantly. You can see how the PCM is trying to control the vanes by watching the Turbo Varaible Geometry Duty Cycle on a OBD scan tool as well as hear the pitch changes in the exhaust easily on aftermarket straight pipes. To try to help the vanes from getting stuck in position the PCM can have the vanes sweep a full range of motion or a vane sweep.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:29 PM
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Next question. What's with all the acronyms? I know some of them. FICM. EGR. EOT. ECT. IPR. VGT. But there are so many more that I have no clue about.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:34 PM
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Another question. Why in the hell am I getting 9-11mpg? Is it my egr delete? Drove 260 miles today and I got an average of 10.7
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
Next question. What's with all the acronyms? I know some of them. FICM. EGR. EOT. ECT. IPR. VGT. But there are so many more that I have no clue about.
There is s list of these in the Tech Folder thread at the top of the forum page.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
Another question. Why in the hell am I getting 9-11mpg? Is it my egr delete? Drove 260 miles today and I got an average of 10.7
This could take a while and be caused by more than one specific item. I would first check the Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor by comparing it to the Barometric sensor and MAP sensors on a cold engine with key on engine off (KOEO).

Then check tire pressure, figure out what your PCM and FICM strategys are.

Check tire pressure

Check FICM voltage

Check coolant temps and compare to oil temps. Too low coolant temps will use more fuel.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 10:10 PM
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VGT videos:



 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 10:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
Another question. Why in the hell am I getting 9-11mpg? Is it my egr delete? Drove 260 miles today and I got an average of 10.7


how is it figured


hand calc or lie-o-meter
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 10:44 PM
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On top of what BLADE35 asked I would add to that.
What gear ratio are you running in the differentials?

But MPG questions can be a whole kettle of fish.
There are so many reasons as to why they can be low.
Lost of stop and go will eat up the MPGs no mater
how you look at it.




Sean <BR>

6.0L Tech Folder
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by BLADE35
how is it figured


hand calc or lie-o-meter
Hands calculated. What should the back pressure be? How about barometric pressure? How do I know that's right? Anything rise I should check? 3.73 gear ratios @ 70mph in sixth gear @2150 rpms. . Also the trip has two passes at the end of the trip.

Another thing. .... what's the volumetric efficiency of these engines? Torque can calculate it if I know that number.
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 05:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
Hands calculated. What should the back pressure be? How about barometric pressure? How do I know that's right?
At key on, Engine off exhaust back pressure (EBP) , MAP, and BARO should be almost the same. BARO at sea level should be about 14.7. It will be slightly less as you go up in altitude.
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
Another question. Why in the hell am I getting 9-11mpg? Is it my egr delete? Drove 260 miles today and I got an average of 10.7
Definitely doesn't have anything to do with the EGR Delete. The EGR delete removes the recycled hot exhaust gasses from the intake and gives you a colder/denser air charge. Watch your air intake #1 and #2 temps. They should be about a 15-20 degrees spread running down the road.

I was at the 11-12 mpg range most of the winter with 410 gearing on the dually. A lot of stop & go, lower tire pressure to help with traction and lots more idling. I can't pin it down to a single item but after running T Wildman's economy & tow tunes on the PCM, PHP's Economy Tune on the FICM , running higher tire pressure, some summer diesel fuel with a cetane boost, a bed cover and changing all the fluids I'm finally up to 15 mpg on the highway with the cruise set on 70 mph. I though I was doomed to stay at the 11-12 mpg range.
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 08:55 AM
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But that's a dually with 410s. I'm a SRW with 373s. Should I hey the 58 volt FICM ?
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 10:34 AM
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If you wAnt to change a FICM get 48volt have ed go thru it for reliability then get him to put atlas 40 program MAYBE YOU PHP tune is similair to atlas 40 IDK

But I think you need to verify CAC SHSTEM HEALTH first
 
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Old May 20, 2016 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Aune163rd
........................ What should the back pressure be? How about barometric pressure? How do I know that's right?..........
in Missoula, Montana (3,200 ft elevation) the air pressure is around 13.08 psi. You can get the exact measurement on any given day from a weather site like:

https://www.wunderground.com/q/zmw:59801.1.99999


The MAP, Baro & EBP sensors will all read Barometric Pressure on a cold engine that sat overnight with the Key On Engine Off (KOEO). They should all read within .2-.3 psi of each other when reading them with an OBD type monitor. What are you using to read engine data? Torque Pro?

By verifying these sensors at KOEO you will know that they are functioning correctly before start up.Bad or clogged EBP sensors can mess with you fuel mileage and turbo function.
 
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