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So, trucks A/C is not blowing cold, and i replaced the compressor a couple years ago ( 40k miles?) took the truck to a shop to have them use one of them sniffers to check for a refrigerant leak. Was told that it needs a new evaporator core. Charged the truck up with refrigerant and it blew cold for a while but is now blowing hot again and it's summer time here in FL
So, has anyone replaced an evaporator core here? I tried to find some how-to videos on youtube, but to no avail. I'd like to do it myself if possible. I think the shop quoted 3-400 in labor atleast.
It's not that hard of a job if you have all the right tools.
This list is not the end all and things might be missing.
Read/do at your own risk. This should give you some good info.
I happen to have PDFs I can post from the Ford Workshop Manual.
I need to know the year and model to post the correct files.
Vacuum pump
Manifold/gauge set
refrigerant scale
tools needed to replace the orifice tube : The guy in the video is calling it an expantion valve
New dryer along with a line flush kit.
You don't want a lot of crap from the old
equipment getting blown into you new parts.
It is most all bolt on with O-rings.
You remove the old parts and flush the ones that are not being
replaced. Also make sure that the compressor has the correct amount
and type of oil in the system. The reason for the new orifice tube is
they tend to be the place where trash will stop things up. Once you know
the system is clean and the new parts are in you pull a vacuum and hold
it. The longer the better. Any moisture that got in while swapping parts
will boil off at low pressure/vacuum. As the moisture boils the vacuum will
decrease and once the system is dry it will hold. Then you can add the correct
weight of refrigerant and any oils that may be called for or not.
I replaced my entire system a while back. The compressor was the hardest part.
If it were ME, I would pull the HVAC box completely out, replace the avaporator and reinstall the HVAC box. Otherwise there are several screws you have to take out beside the valve cover an firewall that are a pain to get to.
There are 5-6 nuts behind the glove box and the whole thing comes out. Much easier IMO.
It's not that hard of a job if you have all the right tools.
This list is not the end all and things might be missing.
Read/do at your own risk. This should give you some good info.
I happen to have PDFs I can post from the Ford Workshop Manual.
I need to know the year and model to post the correct files.
Vacuum pump
Manifold/gauge set
refrigerant scale
tools needed to replace the orifice tube : The guy in the video is calling it an expantion valve
New dryer along with a line flush kit.
You don't want a lot of crap from the old
equipment getting blown into you new parts.
It is most all bolt on with O-rings.
You remove the old parts and flush the ones that are not being
replaced. Also make sure that the compressor has the correct amount
and type of oil in the system. The reason for the new orifice tube is
they tend to be the place where trash will stop things up. Once you know
the system is clean and the new parts are in you pull a vacuum and hold
it. The longer the better. Any moisture that got in while swapping parts
will boil off at low pressure/vacuum. As the moisture boils the vacuum will
decrease and once the system is dry it will hold. Then you can add the correct
weight of refrigerant and any oils that may be called for or not.
I did all in a few that your not going to need. The reason is if someone is looking for A/C info and happens to not
have a 6.0 they can still get info from this post. This covers your 2005 F250 both diesel and gas along with some others.
Enjoy. Hope this helps you get to the bottom of the problem.
OK so, I don't have all the tools necessary to evacuate and charge the A/C after I install the evaporator, so would it be possible to just replace the evaporator myself, put it all back together and drive it to a shop with the A/C off and just pay them to evacuate and charge the A/C? Is this a bad idea? lol
Still needs to be flushed.
But other than that it should be safe.
I would check with then to see if they are ok with splitting the work like that.
BTW you could pick up a cheap vacuum pump at Harbor Fright and have the
shop just do the oil and charge. For each part you replace you have to add
x amount of oil to keep the correct amount in the system. The thing with you
doing the evacuation yourself is you will know if there is a leak or not without
forking over $ and have it leak down on you over time. Plus if you can hole a
vacuum for hours that will dry the moisture out of the system.
So the two things you will need are a pump and a manifold set.
BTW don't use the auto-parts store can stuff. You will kill the system quickly
with that crap. Take the time to do it right and you only have to do it once.
