Hey guys, The other day i noticed my turn signal was blinking rapidly. I found that my drivers side bulb was burned out. Im trying to convert most of my lights to LEDs on my truck and figured that i'd replaced the tail lights with LEDs. After replacing both rear taillights with LEDS I still have the rapid blinking turn signal. Whats the deal? is it just the LEDS or what

 

You need a load resistor on the circuit. Google load resistor for LED tail lights and you should find plenty of info. The LEDs have such a low load that they will cause this issue.

Look for something like this:

http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Add-Load-Re...ight-a/169.htm

 

Is this something I need to install asap? will i cause any damage if I leave it be for a few weeks? thanks for the reply

 

No, but it's an annoyance. Also, don't know if it will attract unwanted attention by the police. Quick flashing lights are an indication of a burned out light and a officer presumably could pull you over. But again, it's more of an annoyance.

 

maybe one of your rear tail lights or out. same with my 11 superduty.

 

I understand that the dealer can change the programming so as to disable the quick-flash without adding load resistors.

 

x2 to what kvlo said or you could get the load resistors....

Harm...no... and I wouldn't worry about being pulled over for a fast blinker. The officer would need to see one not blinking fast...

Pick your path and just do it so it's back to "normal" when you get a chance. At least that is what I would do. Probably cheaper for the load resistors, which is the route I would go. Unless you happen to know a dealer that will help you out. I couldn't get one help me out with reprogramming a key. I finally ended up finding one that would do it for $50 instead of $150...

 

I forgot about being able to re-program the module:

https://www.fleet.ford.com/truckbbas...ml/Q-158R3.pdf

Some of the load resistors do get hot. I would find a friendly dealership.

 

Glad to know they get hot... Proper placement would be important then. One of the things stopping me from going to LEDS is that I am worried they will ice up because they don't generate the type of heat my stock bulbs do. Even my clearance lights will melt the snow off the roof.

 

DeeDubz
Where in CA are you?

 

I recently put Diode Dynamics led blinkers in my truck and ordered there resistors with them but as it turned out I didn't even need them. May have something to do with the fact that each blinker has 16 individual bulbs so they dram enough power but I'm not sure

 

IIRC, some LED bulbs have the resistors built in as well.... I decided to skip LEDS for the exterior lightning as I want the heat the incandescent ones that give off heat to melt snow/ice.

Once the 2017s come out I will be watching them during the snow up here to see how the LEDS work in the cold/snow/ice.

 

A 1157 lamp produces 92btu at full load; with the lights on, it only generates half that because they only operate at full load when the brakes are engaged. When I'm traveling the ND, MN and WI route, my tail lights never heat up enough to melt the ice or snow off of them. We're talking next to nothing in btu's. LEDs run at around 10btu's so there's an obvious heat difference and they won't melt didley but in reality, typical taillights won't either. I've had my headlights freeze over before, and they generate a lot more heat.

I want the LEDs for the quick responsiveness; they turn on and off much more quickly and I don't have to worry about the crappy filament breaking. Integrated is the way to go though because they eliminate the socket, which is the weak link with replacement lamps.

 

Ive never even considered the heat a light puts out being down here in Texas lol