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So I'm at 37,000 miles and I feeling a death wobble starting to shake my front end in certain left hand radius curves. Having gone through that with my 2011 and being past my 36,000 miles bumper to bumper warranty. I'm just going to jump in and replace shocks and front steering stabilizer. That seems to be what do the most good on my 2011 until the front bearings went bad at 100,000 miles.
I used the Rancho 9000 on my 2011 truck and they worked great. Never did adjust them very much, Just set them and left them be.
So I'm seeing the Bilsteins 5100 Non-adjusting shocks a whole lot cheaper than the Rancho 9000 and thinking maybe I don't need an adustable shock and should save the money.
Any thoughts on whats the better buy. My truck is leveled. I frequently have a 13,000 GN horse trailer hooked up. And I run 100 miles daily in commuting.
I don't know how Ford responds in such a case but my prior truck was a Dodge w/ power train warranty to 100k. At 106k I lost 2nd. gear in the transmission ( Auto) and had it replaced with a reconditioned unit while traveling in South Carolina. That was 2 yrs. prior to trading it in. When I spoke with the Dodge dealer and mentioned it he said too bad you didn't come here. They MAY have been able to cover it under the warranty. Apparently they have some discretionary wiggle room. Oh well, too late and I missed the boat on that one. Never even gave it any thought. I got a much better trade in from the Ford people so I have a '15 and that's why I'm here. You got nuttin to loose.
If you're not adjusting, then def go with the 5100's. I have almost 40k on mine (4+steering stabilizer) and couldn't be happier. Towing heavy or riding empty, they are a great shock...
I have the 5100's, and am thinking of trying the Rancho's. These just seem to be a real stiff, rigid & rough ride. Yes I know it's a truck, but would like to try the 9000's, and hopefully soften the ride a bit. Rides great with the toy hauler hooked up though.
If money didn't matter, I'd try the Fox shocks. I have Bilstein 5100s and like em. Maybe gonna try the Foxs next on this truck or the 2017 if I pull the trigger.
So I'm at 37,000 miles and I feeling a death wobble starting to shake my front end in certain left hand radius curves. Having gone through that with my 2011 and being past my 36,000 miles bumper to bumper warranty. I'm just going to jump in and replace shocks and front steering stabilizer. That seems to be what do the most good on my 2011 until the front bearings went bad at 100,000 miles.
I used the Rancho 9000 on my 2011 truck and they worked great. Never did adjust them very much, Just set them and left them be.
So I'm seeing the Bilsteins 5100 Non-adjusting shocks a whole lot cheaper than the Rancho 9000 and thinking maybe I don't need an adustable shock and should save the money.
Any thoughts on whats the better buy. My truck is leveled. I frequently have a 13,000 GN horse trailer hooked up. And I run 100 miles daily in commuting.
I leveled my truck with the Icon 2.0 kit at 11k miles and it has been wonderful. A few months ago my rear shocks finally started leaking at 80k miles (5 years). My friend has a 2015 leveled with Icon 2.5 shocks and wow what a difference those make, but I was not going to spend $2500 on shocks. I ended up replacing my shocks with Bilstein 5160 and I think those actually ride better than the Icon 2.0 series. I sent my Icon shocks in to be rebuilt and now they are just sitting in my garage since I think the 5160 give a better ride and feels more stable when pulling a heavy load. Just my 2 cents. I figured when I buy the next F250 then I will splurge and buy the 2.5.
The Ikon 2.0 has been good the past 5 years, 4 in AZ and one year in MN. They performed very good until they started leaking.
I also replaced the track bar and dual steering stabilizer from Ikon at 11k and the death wobble has never returned.
It could be tires. I've still got about 35% tread, they are looking like they may hit 50,000 -55,000 miles on these Toyos ATs, Regardless of mileage l'll probsbly put new tires on in Sept Before hunting season and winter. Past experience on my 2011 showed that new tires definitely help.
I'm only getting the serious shakes on left hand radius turns in the 50-60 mph range usually when I hit bridge expansion joints that trigger it.
The Rancho 9000xl are a totally different shock than the OEM Rancho that come in the FX4 package . The 9000s have $100 rebate this month, which makes them about the same price as the Bilstein in cost, you just have to front the money and wait 2-3 months to get your rebate Visa card.
The Rancho 9000xl are a totally different shock than the OEM Rancho that come in the FX4 package . The 9000s have $100 rebate this month, which makes them about the same price as the Bilstein in cost, you just have to front the money and wait 2-3 months to get your rebate Visa card.
I understand that. I was just saying the Bilstein's have a better ride than stock.
It could be tires. I've still got about 35% tread, they are looking like they may hit 50,000 -55,000 miles on these Toyos ATs, Regardless of mileage l'll probsbly put new tires on in Sept Before hunting season and winter. Past experience on my 2011 showed that new tires definitely help.
I'm only getting the serious shakes on left hand radius turns in the 50-60 mph range usually when I hit bridge expansion joints that trigger it.
The Rancho 9000xl are a totally different shock than the OEM Rancho that come in the FX4 package . The 9000s have $100 rebate this month, which makes them about the same price as the Bilstein in cost, you just have to front the money and wait 2-3 months to get your rebate Visa card.
The reason I asked was my truck started to do this with about 10k miles left on the tires. I replaced the tires and the problem went away.
If choosing shocks I couldn't recommend the 9000's. Mine were shot in about a year. As a matter of fact for Ford Rancho's have held up better.
AutoZone Duralast shocks probably ride better than the stock FX4 shocks LMAO!
They also ride better than the standard Ford shocks that haven't been painted Rancho colors. My comment was to state that although AZblueoval said they felt rough to him, they are better than stock as far as unloaded ride quality. Not saying there is anything good about the OEM shocks. Everyone knows the fake Ranchos are chit.
The Rancho 9000xl are a totally different shock than the OEM Rancho that come in the FX4 package . The 9000s have $100 rebate this month, which makes them about the same price as the Bilstein in cost, you just have to front the money and wait 2-3 months to get your rebate Visa card.
I was actually surprised at how fast I got my rebate card from Rancho when I bought my 9000XLs back in ShOctober 2015.
And they are a huge improvement over the stock FX4 shocks.
I set and forget the front, but the rear I adjust if I'm towing my 13K 5th wheel. I run 5 or 6 empty and 9 towing.
I also lubed the adjuster ***** with CorrosionX before installing the shocks with hopes it would prevent them from seizing.
... feeling a death wobble... My truck is leveled..
How did you compensate for caster and what was the results of the alignment afterwards? New shocks may help for a little while but I would first verify sufficient (2-4 degree) caster, inspect track bar and tires before spending $ on shocks. Probably not what you want to hear. Best/most expensive shocks in the world will not cure worn out parts and poor geometry, nor will a quadruple remote reservoir steering damper system.
Caster provides a centering force to the steering, making the system stable. Death wobble is a unstable system aka oscillating.
Ball joint shims cannot properly correct caster with a 2" lift, sorry. An alignment check is typically free. Please report back with your solution if you can. Good luck getting it resolved.
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