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Question for you all. Is the plastic "bracket" that fits on the bottom of the air filter really necessary? I left it off last time I put the assembly back in.
It takes 2 minutes to put it back. It supports the intake system. Without it you're putting stress on the connections and probably rubbing wires or itself on the core support.
It takes 2 minutes to put it back. It supports the intake system. Without it you're putting stress on the connections and probably rubbing wires or itself on the core support.
Hi All,
Continuing saga.
Replaced:
-Oil Cooler
-EGR cooler
-Standpipes
-Dummy Plugs
-4 injectors
After getting bugs out, it ran perfectly for 50 miles, then died suddenly.
- IPC reads 100 - 200
- good engine oil pressure
- FICM 49v
I suspected IPR clog, but when I removed it, very little debris on screen and screen intact. I had bought a new one so put in the new one anyway, still same results, no start, low IPC pressure.
I found some troubleshooting guides to HPO problems, will start working through those this evening.
From what I am seeing it could be leaks in a lot of places. To me, since I worked on the standpipes, there could be a problem there. Also, it died suddenly so something seems to have had to fail.
I did the air test. I took the valve covers off so I could see/hear any leaks better.
I hooked up the ICP side first, closed the IPR, no leaking there.
Then I moved to the driver side, I could hear a pretty big leak and saw mist coming from under the oil rail.
After several cycles of air on/off and clearing the mist it looked like it was coming from the stand pipe area, so I removed the stand pipe. The lower portion of the standpipe stayed in the engine. I've only been lucky once with both parts coming out.
When the upper part came out, the bottom o ring on the upper portion was GONE. There was just a tiny bit of it on the plug. This was a brand new standpipe. I don't know, maybe I nicked it when I put it in, or it was defective.
When I remove the oil rail I did find most of the o ring still in the standpipe hole and it was really deformed.
I also took a mighty vac and vacuumed out the oil from the top of the injectors but didn't see any O ring pieces in the oil.
There isn't a good way to clear out the oil rail so I'll take out those end plugs and clean it out good before re-installing it. I measured and it looks like it's a 35mm, probably have to use an impact wrench on it.
I'm only able to work on it a couple of hours a night so I'll do most of the cleanup tomorrow afternoon/evening. Hopefully have it ready to try again on Saturday.
I'm going to put the original standpipes back in. They didn't look too bad and were the "upgraded" type with the o ring supports in them.
From what I hear removing the plugs is a bad idea.
Use the fill,slosh and dump method. You can use kerosene or diesel,
Then blow it out with compressed air.
When you put that stand pipe in did you oil the rings?
From what I hear removing the plugs is a bad idea.
Use the fill,slosh and dump method. You can use kerosene or diesel,
Then blow it out with compressed air.
When you put that stand pipe in did you oil the rings?
That sounds like a plan. I wasn't really excited about taking out those plugs anyway. It looks like someone had them out at one time, though, they have paint (alignment) marks on them, unless those come from the factory.
Yes, I oiled them really well when putting them back in. I also oiled the injectors with fresh oil when putting the rail back onto them.
Could have just been a defective o ring but it sure cost me a lot of trouble and $130 towing bill.
53, I sure have to give you credit for "keeping your head when all about you are losing theirs" as a poem once said.
Pretty crazy to think that this o ring worked initially, then crumbled after 50 miles?
Sounds like you'll have a great truck for a while, once this fix is complete.
Can only wish the best for you!
Well I think after you get it all flushed it's a new stand pipe and
your golden. While you have the oil rail out just pull the left behind
part out. Needle nosed pliers work well for that.
The other option is to make this tool like I did.
The 2 aluminum parts are rivnuts being used as spacers. Anything that won't
mar the surface will do the job. The rubber hose goes down into the stand pipe
end and you turn the 3 wing nut to expand the rubber and pull it out.
All the parts are 1/4 #20 with the allen cap screw as the main part. Rubber hose
to fit over the body of the cap screw. Aluminum tubing would work much better
for the spacer but I did not have that on hand when I brewed this up.
R2 (any kin to R2D2?, heh) I can't say I haven't lost my head a time or two. There are some blisters on the garage wall. I really didn't think there were that many cuss words available. My wife has been unbelievably patient with me.
So, today, I took a little time off work and dug in.
Got the rail flushed, put in the "old" standpipe and dummy plug, put it all back together, started it up, ran like a dream!
At idle I have about 580 on the ICP. I have seen north of 3000 when giving it a lot of throttle. So far, only about 6 miles on it.
In the morning I'm going to change the oil and filter the take it on a little ride. I'll report back how it does.
The only issue is that it is now setting a P2552 code, throttle inhibit circuit open. I took the FICM off again, checked the harness and plugs, didn't see anything. I hope I didn't smoke the FICM with low battery voltage. It still runs good. My CTS won't reset the code and no check engine light is on.
Thanks Sean. this helps a lot. I was too tired after working on the truck to do a lot of searching. This will make it easier when I get up in the morning.... oh wait...
Big thanks to all who gave advice. It is very much appreciated.
