I've never compared to two needle and seats side by side. I don't know if it's height or seat I.D. Aka flow. The 4100 was a 4 barrel. The front 1/2 of it real similar to a 2100. I think you should get a new and correct carb kit. You've had the top of the carb on and off enough times where that gasket should be replace IMHO. It will prolly seep gas now.

 

OK guys,

Found the cause of the flooding today, after re-digging through the rebuild instructions. Forgot to put the gasket underneath the seat..... that's why it was flooding..... Put in the seat that came with the overhaul kit, installed the gasket, set the fuel height and idle and went for a spin..... prrrrrrrr.....prrrrrrr....prrrrrr.... purring like a little kittycat......

Only thing remaining is the stumble. Now, I'm convinced it's not carb related and I'm about to live with it. Will try some more of your suggestions, but I'll start enjoying driving my Bump ( he's called Jeff by the way ) again !

Thanks, any other ideas are always welcome !
Martin

 

Well at least you got it running now without the flooding/fire problem. Now you can test the other parts (plugs, ignition, ect.) to find the stumble at your leisure.

 

So do you install the pv that came with the kit? I think you should have.

My '79 did that, and I cant remember what ended up being the fix. I know that it had a 2 stage pv in it when I bought it, also the spring was weak and wasnt pulling the throttle right, and the jets were too small. 2100 should have #55F.


Edited to add: Ok, I looked at my thread from 2013. Turns out there was a bug wing in one of the jet holes. Maybe pull the top and see whats in there.

 

Jet size is listed in the shop manual, varies depending on engine/venturi size. And altitude. So while #55F is correct for your 2100 in your motor at your location, it's not necessarily correct for his'n. And then there's the whole business of whether the carb is original to that particular engine, and also the fact that gasoline is a lot different today. The short answer is he better check, I agree with that!

 

True.
So he should verify that his carb size and jets are correct.

Also, when checking for vacuum leaks, if you are using brake cleaner you need to read if it is non-chlorinated or chlorinated. Chlorinated is non flammable.

 

Thanks again guys, for all your help ! I'm trying to find the correct jet sizes etcetera and I'm seeing the tuner I know on the 20th to see if he can help me as well. I can live with the stumble, but am very willing to put some money into the solution.

Next thing will be to stop the brake caliper rattle at the front. Have read some useful intel already on the forum, so I'm anxious to get started !

Take care,
Martin

 

So, life goes on and so do the repairs on my bump ! Fixed the rattle on the from brakes a couple of weeks ago and it's fine now, thank God, what a difference !

What remains is the stumble of idle....went to my tuner again and to fix the lean condition, he has blocked the ram air on the idle circuit, in order to richen the idle. This didn't help, so we tried to advance the vacuum advance to the lightest setting, but his was already in that position. Than we tried to connect the vacuum advance from carb vacuum to manifold vacuum and that showed a slight improvement. Am I correct in thinking my basic ignition timing might be too late ? So, if I advance the distributor a little, it might solve this issue ?

If that doesn't help, I'll quit looking for solutions this summer and enjoy my truck to the fullest, whilst dealing with the off idle stumble....

 

I'd have to reread your thread as I don't remember off hand what all we have covered, but off the top o' my head I'd say make sure the vibration damper's outer ring has not slipped to the timing mark is still accurate. Set the timing to factory specs 1st. Later try 2-4 degrees more. If you still have points check the dwell to be at or real close to 30 degrees.


Do these correctly with a timing light and dwell meter. A person shouldn't skimp on things when trying to solve a problem. This can cause all kinds of parts being thrown at something when a tech was right in the very beginning.

 

Did you ever get the idle mixture screws adjusted from 5 turns out from seated? That ain't right. Or not typical. The bench setting is 1.5 turns out, and they normally get turned in from that point for best lean idle drop, or highest vacuum/RPM. So a typical endpoint setting will be about 1/2 or 3/4 turn out from seated.

Another thing to look at, the butterflies should be almost completely closed at idle, the only thing that should be exposed is the T-slot, meaning only the idle circuit is providing fuel at idle. Everything has to be adjusted in the ballpark all the way back from tank/fuel pump to properly set idle mixture, or an off-idle stumble can be just one symptom.

You also mentioned earlier not getting a good accelerator pump shot squirt until 3/4 when actuating the throttle. Did that get fixed? It HAS to be immediate to prevent a "bog" or stumble. Actuating rod inboard slot, and second hole from the top in 40F to 80F temperatures.

 

Hi guys,

Back again after enjoying my Bump during a very nice Dutch summer !

The stumble is still there and I was getting used to it, but the issue is haunting me again... but, instead of trying and trying and trying, I want to buy a new carb for the Ford. Can anyone tell me what would be a nice replacement carb for a totally stock 360 ? Edelbrock ? Or another brand ? I'm also wondering about replacing the exhaust manifolds for headers and exchanging the exhausts....

Thanks, it's good winter kicks in, so I can start working on the Bump again...

Bye,
Martin

 

AFAIK where you are gas is expensive. 360/390s are not fuel economy engines at all. So if you end up with stock exhaust I would suggest the following.

• 390 CFM Classic Holley Carburetor

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Electric Choke Vacuum Secondaries
PART# 0-8007
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Overview




Classic Holley carbs have been a staple for rodders around the world for decades. They're calibrated for use on stock to mildly modified vehicles and have that classic Holley look. Holley’s 0-8007 is calibrated and intended for small V8s or 6 cylinder engines as well as 2x4 street tunnel ram style set ups. Plus, it is Gold Dichromate coated for durability and classic Holley looks. Don't trust your performance to just anyone, Holley is the only modular carburetor company that has been in business for over 100 years and has powered every NASCAR champion since the 60's.
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• Power valve blow-out protection

WARNING FOR 0-8007: This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm.



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• 600 CFM Classic Holley Carburetor

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Electric Choke Vacuum Secondaries
PART# 0-80457SA
Suggested Retail: $356.95
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• Compatible with GM, Chrysler, and Ford A/T kickdown linkage. Additional parts may be required.
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