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Anyone tried these? I am thinking of getting two 10's. How will they compare with the fosgate he2's? What subs do you recommend?
Another question.... How much more bass will two 12's give you as oposed to two 10's? Would I be better off getting two 12's? I have a regular cab truck.
I read about you guys upgrading your alternator and wiring. How do I do this? What do I need and how much will it cost? I have a F350 with a 460 so will the alternator in that be pretty big? I am going to have a fosgate 1000 watt mono amp and then I will have a fosgate 450 watt two channel amp.
Two 12's will move more air then two 10's but it depends on the power being applied to them. My brother in law has two 12" Kenwoods in a sealed Q logic box from Crutchfield and my two 10's will snap that box in half and make those 12's roll down my drive way in hopes of getting run over by a car due to the embarrassment put upon then by two 10's.
I would say listen to both sub if you can. Alpine usually has good SQ where as RF usually leans toward SPL with some SQ. I am running RF amps also but i dont really care for there subs altho I would take them over Kenwood subs any day. Which mono block from RF you running? 1000BD? Is that 450 watt 2ch amp for componants? You can save yourself some money by getting a lower power amp if it is for comps.
There is a post on this page allready talking about upgrading the electrical system. If you still have questions after reading the post just ask away. Thats why we're here.
I have the fosgate 1001 bd. I was planning on using the 450 watt amp for components and then I was going to run my rear speakers off the head unit. What do you recommend for the components? I was thinking of getting Alpine components that have a rms of 90 I believe. I also plan on ordering the Alpine 9807 for a head unit. I lost all of my stuff due to theft. My truck got some body work done and totally repainted. They did a great job on the paint and a great job on stealing my jl audio 10 w6's and my fosgate 500 bd. The good news is that they owner of the shop realizes how much business my family and friends brings him so he is going to pay for me to get all new stereo stuff. I think I might just go ahead and get the Alpine type R subs. I dont think I can go wrong with them or even the fosgates he2's. I am going to get dual two ohm subs and wire them mono to get a 2ohm load. Today the stereo shop wants me to bring by the specs for the subs I am going to use so they can custom build and tune my new box for me.
Sucks to have things stolen.
All the components you listed are good. 450w should be 225 per ch and with the alpines at a rms of 90w.......... Thats more then double the power they can handle. Even turning the gain on the amp all the way down might not be enough to keep them from hitting there peak. I just blew a JL speaker for the same reason. I was tuning and resetting my gains when the surround on the speaker and coil gave in. No burn smell either. The gains on my comp amp are all the way down. You will be ok as long as you don't blast the comps (like i do sometimes). You should have a decent alt in your truck so see how it is after everything is installed. Stay away from caps...............
Headroom is always nice, if you know how to properly set the gains. It will improve overall dynamics and lengthen the life of your amp (it won't have to "work" as hard). If you can grab the Type X (spx) line of Alpine components, grab them! Those are the best set of comps I've heard in person.
On to the subs...I'd take the Type R's over any RF sub. The R's have great SQ and get plenty loud. A pair will blow wind up your skirt If you have the room, grab the 12's. They like no more than 500/per in a 1 cuft. sealed box/per...that RF 1001bd amp is really underrated. Again, be careful with the gains. That should be a GREAT combo!
Last edited by luvdeftonz; Aug 15, 2003 at 05:17 PM.
I was at the stereo shop today. They took measurements for my truck and have some plans made for a custom box the only thing they need is the subs and then they will start the box construction. They told me the type R's are awesome but then I was at another stereo shop (i really cant stand these guys) and they told me that the type R's always have something that goes wrong with them and that they dropped alpine because of that. They said that I will never fit them behind my reg. cab truck seats and that I should get the kicker solo barics. I really dont want the kickers and I want the Alpines. I think they just said bad things about the alpines and said they wouldnt fit in hopes that I would buy kicker from them. What do you guys think?
So the rockford 1000 watt amp is a good one? I had the 500 bd and it was very nice! Will the 1000 watt one be big enough? I have read where some people put up to 600 watts on one alpine even though it is only rated at 300. What amp do you recommend for the 90 watt rms components? Thanks for all the help.
I have two alpine type R 10's in my regular cab truck in two seperate boxes and all I can say is wow, I sold my old subs which were Ma Audio Synergy 10's which can handle 1000rms a piece a peak out about 2000rms. I have had these alpine 10's before and that's why I bought some brand new. All I can say about these subs is that they are underrated of course by alpine and the sq and spl of these subs with a good amp is awesome. I will never buy anything but alpine, but my cd player let me down last night the internal 60x4 amp went bye bye, I was literally shocked so I had to send it in. The cd player was a cda-9813, $399 retail price. What was weird is that the pre-amps worked fine, but the internal amp just blew up I guess, all I used the internal amp for was for rear fill, what a waste. Alpine is usually superior in the head units I thought?
Originally posted by PrPlayboy All the components you listed are good. 450w should be 225 per ch and with the alpines at a rms of 90w.......... Thats more then double the power they can handle.
Which Alpines are you talking about? The R-series 10" subs are rated 300W RMS and 1000W peak. They should handle anything that amp can throw at them (except for a clipped signal, of course).
Oh, and xxx: two high-quality 10" subs like these should be MORE than enough for any kind of music listening, unless you're planning on being 100 yards away from the truck while the radio's on. Unless you're going into SPL competition or something equally extreme, you shouldn't need 12s IMO.
Sufficiently powered, a 12 is better than a 10 of the same brand/line. A 12 has to move less to produce the same output as the 10...it goes lower...and the "smaller woofs' are quicker is a myth", with regards to subwoofers. Quickness is mostly attributed to midbass and xover points. Any sub can sound muddy, slow, blah blah blah, if proper xover points aren't selected. "Muddy" bass can also be attributed to incorrect box size. Throw that 12" Type R in a 1.25 and it's crisp and clean...with a nice and low Q. Throw it in .75 and it's starts to get ugly. If room permits, and sufficient power is available, there is no reason at all to choose a smaller woof over a larger one from the same line.
Originally posted by luvdeftonz If room permits, and sufficient power is available, there is no reason at all to choose a smaller woof over a larger one from the same line.
Yes, *if* room permits. It seems that many of us, however, are fighting for every cubic inch we can find for our electronic gear. I know I sure am, and I'm still in the design stage!
I'd say that simple parsimony is a reason to go with a 10" vs. a 12". The 10" will be less expensive, take less power (though this is minor), take up less space, and therefore probably be easier to install. And for all but the most discrimating ear, it will produce sound faithfully well toward the threshold of the audible range.
Originally posted by mzimmers Yes, *if* room permits. It seems that many of us, however, are fighting for every cubic inch we can find for our electronic gear. I know I sure am, and I'm still in the design stage!
lol!!! I had to give up my rear seats to fix my dual 12" box in the back of my SC Ranger. But for me it was better that way...less passengers to tell you to 'turn it down, it's hurting my ears!!!'
Or talk when I want to just cruise...bumping along...
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