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Old May 8, 2016 | 12:33 PM
  #16  
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I doubt that the EBP valve is totally your issue, but you should address it. Warm restart issues frequently are IPR related. Have you looked at the IPR visually to make sure the nut is in place on the back?
 
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Old May 8, 2016 | 01:08 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by HKusp
I doubt that the EBP valve is totally your issue, but you should address it. Warm restart issues frequently are IPR related. Have you looked at the IPR visually to make sure the nut is in place on the back?
The nut is there. I ordered the rebuild kit. It has oil all in the plug
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 10:26 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 02stroke
The nut is there. I ordered the rebuild kit. It has oil all in the plug
Ok since my truck is down waiting for parts I removed my turbo to replace o rings and clean up oil. Do you guys have any other recommendations for other maintenance I should do?
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 11:20 AM
  #19  
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Have you checked your turbo for play? Interested in a different wheel? Checked your up pipes? Interested in the HPX or FRX mod? Checked your injector torque and UVH's? HPOP lines?

There is a lot that is easier to access with the turbo out of the way!
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 11:35 AM
  #20  
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NOW is the time to do up pipes for sure. I also would look at the passenger side fuel line where it is a known point of failure. Like rikster said, Turbo wheel, maybe rebuild it while out, the kit is $75ish and you will be good for 200K+ miles if you maintain your oil and let it cool before shutting the truck down.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 01:40 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by HKusp
NOW is the time to do up pipes for sure. I also would look at the passenger side fuel line where it is a known point of failure. Like rikster said, Turbo wheel, maybe rebuild it while out, the kit is $75ish and you will be good for 200K+ miles if you maintain your oil and let it cool before shutting the truck down.
I have the frx, I did the terminator from RiffRaff 6 mos ago. I am doing the wicked wheel, and new wastegate, how much are the up pipes? And where is the passenger fuel line?
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 02:27 PM
  #22  
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Depends on which route you take on the up pipes. The IH ones will run you about $400 whereas the Dorman branded ones can usually be had for less then $200 (got mine from Amazon). There are plenty people here that run the dormans with no issues, so this is more down to personal choice. Are the IH ones great units? Absolutely, but to me I didn't see the justification for double the price.

The passenger side fuel rail mentioned runs along the head in the valley, there is a clamp that holds it in place. This clamp is known to wear a spot in the hard fuel line over time, so it is wise to first check the fuel line for damage and either replace or reinstall and put something between it and the clamp (piece of rubber, etc). Some people have chosen to leave the clamp off all together and I don't believe I have heard of anyone having issues doing that as yet.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 03:40 PM
  #23  
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This is what my pedestal looked like coming out of the truck. I guess you can see where my oil leak was






The lil metal piece was just sitting on the pedistal

Do I need a new pedestal?
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 04:40 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by HKusp
NOW is the time to do up pipes for sure. I also would look at the passenger side fuel line where it is a known point of failure. Like rikster said, Turbo wheel, maybe rebuild it while out, the kit is $75ish and you will be good for 200K+ miles if you maintain your oil and let it cool before shutting the truck down.
HKusp, since you live in Maryland also, you can best answer this question. Can I delete my ebpv?
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 04:55 PM
  #25  
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I'm with HKusp with the IPR being your issue. Troubleshot a very similar issue with a friend recently, and it was his IPR. His would die if he gave it too much throttle, but then restart right away.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 05:48 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by 02stroke
HKusp, since you live in Maryland also, you can best answer this question. Can I delete my ebpv?
You absolutely can, I know guys in much colder climates than Maryland that have and have no issues. The truck will take a little longer to warm up (in theory) at idle. I haven't deleted mine, because I like it, like the noise, and have it set-up in a decel tune to help brake the truck when towing, but if you want to, go right ahead. One less thing to worry about leaking.
 
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Old May 12, 2016 | 08:13 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by HKusp
You absolutely can, I know guys in much colder climates than Maryland that have and have no issues. The truck will take a little longer to warm up (in theory) at idle. I haven't deleted mine, because I like it, like the noise, and have it set-up in a decel tune to help brake the truck when towing, but if you want to, go right ahead. One less thing to worry about leaking.
thanks, Im gonna order one now. What do you do with the wire?
 
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Old May 14, 2016 | 09:15 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 02stroke
thanks, Im gonna order one now. What do you do with the wire?
You put a little resistor across it so it won't throw a code. Very, very simple and cheap. There are a couple of threads on it in here somewhere with the resistor details. Once you put the resistor across the two wires to simulate it still being plugged in to the EBPV (for fooling the ECM), you get some heat shrink and secure the resistor in there. You could also use that rubberized electrical tape.
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:08 AM
  #29  
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OK got everything back together and started the truck. Same problem once warmed up, it must be the IPR electrical connection, so the rebuild didnt work and I have to buy an IPR sensor. Does any one know who has the best prices? Stealership wants $298
 
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Old May 19, 2016 | 09:57 AM
  #30  
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IPR Injection Pressure Regulator 96-03 7.3L Ford Powerstroke

$184 plus shipping.
 
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