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Turns out the guy sold me a 1970 not a 71 like he said , I'm indifferent and love my girl for who she is. I continued to troubleshoot the issue and read that these trucks came with plastic timing gears oftentimes. Took the fuel pump off to see if I could determine anything and sure enough there were plastic teeth on the engine. Well...I needed to address the terrible exhaust leak anyways (broken off exhaust bolts from po /, so I yanked the engine. The plan is to clean the engine completely (done), drill out and re-tap the broken exhaust bolts while adding replacement studs, remove timing cover and oil pan, clear engine of all plastic teeth, install timing set (just line up the dots like on a chevy right?), reseal the two covers, paint, reinstall the exhaust manifold after I make sure it's flush w/ 1 or 2 sets of gaskets, and install the distributor (still somewhat unsure on this procedure...I think I need to find TDC on cylinder #1 using thumb on spark plug method, make sure my harmonic balancer is at 0 following this, and then line up the dist to where company label is facing forwards? Maybe this is where cylinder #1's mark is?), and then reinstall it into the truck with new rubber and fine tune her. Any advice on the distributor, oil pump, or timing set install I plan to would be greatly appreciated !
I'd replace the oil pump also. These engine sometimes if correct type of oil is not used.
Or run with out a thermostat the engine does not get hot enough to burn off the sludge crap that forms inside the engine. This sometimes causes trouble removing the distributor.
And sometimes the oil pump drive rod will sticks into the dizzy=distributor shaft lower 1/4" hex socket shaft end causing the pump drive rod retainer lock washer to slide down as your pulling the dizzy out of the intake manifold .
When this happens the oil pump drive rod comes out of the oil pump drive hex drive socket. Trouble is it can only be correctly put back into place from the under side of the engine.
What, I do any time I pull the pan, I'll pull the oil pump an replace it a long with the pump drive rod.
I check the lock washer is in the correct placement then remove an clean with acetone or carb cleaner and use JB weld epoxy on the washer & rod to keep it from ever sliding down the shaft.
I'd replace the oil pump also. These engine sometimes if correct type of oil is not used.
Or run with out a thermostat the engine does not get hot enough to burn off the sludge crap that forms inside the engine. This sometimes causes trouble removing the distributor.
And sometimes the oil pump drive rod will sticks into the dizzy=distributor shaft lower 1/4" hex socket shaft end causing the pump drive rod retainer lock washer to slide down as your pulling the dizzy out of the intake manifold .
When this happens the oil pump drive rod comes out of the oil pump drive hex drive socket. Trouble is it can only be correctly put back into place from the under side of the engine.
What, I do any time I pull the pan, I'll pull the oil pump an replace it a long with the pump drive rod.
I check the lock washer is in the correct placement then remove an clean with acetone or carb cleaner and use JB weld epoxy on the washer & rod to keep it from ever sliding down the shaft.
Orich
Thank you, this advice is much appreciated. I forgot to mention that I am in fact replacing the oil pump as well. However, I am not replacing the oil screen but do plan to clean it. I also will remove all plastic teeth from the nylon timing gear that I can find when I drop the oil pan. I will definitely do the JB weld idea, sounds very logical. Here's her heart all cleaned up and pulled as of last weekend:
Put in a good timing roller chain as the oem replacement one's were retarded to meet the EPA liking.
Also to cut to the chase, I'd pull the heads and get hardened exh. valve seats installed
as it's just a matter of time that the unleaded gas causes them to over heat and burn the valve seat then the exh. valves itself. Any kind of towing does them in faster.
The old lead additive which helped some but did not stop erosion of the seats but just slowed it down and foul the plugs if used to much at one time.
These trucks were designed to run reg. 91 octane gas and with today cost for a gal. of gas is a far cry from the day of .035 cents a gal. so most people put in the cheapest gas that is like 87 octane which makes these engines rattle & ping unless the timing is backed off some.
And if you plan on not running headers the use the stock exh manifolds but the heat shields all stamped steel sheet metal type gaskets. As you'll notice the exh bolts have locking tab bolts. If these are not reused or stage 8 locking bolts not used the bolts will slowly loosen that will cause the exh. manifolds to leak and soon make a exh. leaking noise.
This is what the heat shields look like in below picture..
Orich
You might try putting your hand over the carb while it's running. If it just dies a vacuum leak is doubtful. If it runs better when you close off the air... vacuum leak.
This test costs nothing.
My guess...timing.
REMEMBER that Dwell WILL affect timing but Timing cannot affect dwell.
Note to anyone taking there engine out for similar job:
This summer I'm probably going to be taking the engine out for the third time. 1st time was for timing chain and oil pump, 2nd time was due to a timing gear plastic piece getting stuck in oil pump, and this 3rd time will be to replace the rear main seal.
Think about things that could go wrong with the engine that would require you to remove it again. If I would have done some things right/ as a preventative measure the 1st time I might would have only had to take er out once.
Hind sight is 20/20. We all learn from our mistakes, or at least we should. Are you going to do any other work this time? Third times a charm lol just kidding. Good luck.
Think about things that could go wrong with the engine that would require you to remove it again. If I would have done some things right/ as a preventative measure the 1st time I might would have only had to take er out once.
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, I'm indifferent and love my girl for who she is. I continued to troubleshoot the issue and read that these trucks came with plastic timing gears oftentimes. Took the fuel pump off to see if I could determine anything and sure enough there were plastic teeth on the engine. Well...I needed to address the terrible exhaust leak anyways (broken off exhaust bolts from po /
, so I yanked the engine. The plan is to clean the engine completely (done
), drill out and re-tap the broken exhaust bolts while adding replacement studs, remove timing cover and oil pan, clear engine of all plastic teeth, install timing set (just line up the dots like on a chevy right?), reseal the two covers, paint, reinstall the exhaust manifold after I make sure it's flush w/ 1 or 2 sets of gaskets, and install the distributor (still somewhat unsure on this procedure...I think I need to find TDC on cylinder #1 using thumb on spark plug method, make sure my harmonic balancer is at 0 following this, and then line up the dist to where company label is facing forwards? Maybe this is where cylinder #1's mark is?), and then reinstall it into the truck with new rubber and fine tune her. Any advice on the distributor, oil pump, or timing set install I plan to would be greatly appreciated 
lol just kidding. Good luck.
