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My buddy at the scrapyard just got bought a 6.0 e350 ambulance which he has invited me to snag parts from...
I have a 1997 7.3 e350, which has 220,000 miles. What should I take out of the ambulance?
It is already missing the engine, tranny, and rear axle.
I'm thinking of upgrading to 4x4 down the line...
any parts I should take off?
stuff I should rebuild and then swap into my van?
Thanks!
I agree with grabbing whatever you can, but specifically look to see if it has the steering stabilizer, frame mounted bracket, cross link bracket and small U-bolt. All together cost between $165-$$180 new and it is the best steering damper setup you can get.
I would also grab the second frame mounted battery box if it has it along with the battery/ground cables if they are in good shape. That is one way to gain a little extra space under the hood for future mods, plus you can always add just pos & neg post terminals for jump starts, etc.
The other thing I would check is the numbers on the computer module (above driver's front wheel under hood) if the numbers match yours, hang onto it. Happy hunting, I need more friends like that!
Something I've found to be better quality than later day E-Series parts is the doors---if those are in good shape, no rust forming in the visible seems or inside the shell they're worth having.
Be sure to snag the door hinges and mounting bolts too.
Steering column? Not ultra valuable per se but maybe good to have around?
As already said though grab anything that fits your van, assuming you have room to store it too.
I will take the doors and the other parts. If i had space to keep the whole thing I certainly would. My friend has staked a claim on the secondary battery box, and theres no steering stabilizer on it, but still, I am very lucky to have access to all the other parts.
this is the van before having the motor, trans and axle pulled out...
Those doors should be ultra-desirable if only to yourself----I'd grab those off in a nano-second. The smaller side door has a keeper, take the mating part off the body side too.
If the rear bumper is the step type that's worth something too---if not front complete should go with you.
Those doors should be ultra-desirable if only to yourself----I'd grad those off in a nano-second. The smaller side door has a keeper, take the mating part off the body side too.
If the rear bumper is the step type that's worth something too---if not front complete should go with you.
Don't forget the hood.
Just curious, why are those valuable? Are doors hard to find?
The original hood is aluminum, aftermarket replacements are usually fiberglass. An original hood from Ford would probably be $450+. IMO, the newer style (no emblem) hood looks nicer with the newer grille. The headlights would also bolt right onto yours but you have to take the whole retainer/adjuster assembly along with the wire adapter plugs. That side door retainer is nice too! Do the insides of rear cargo doors have trim panels on them? Someone with a cargo van would like to have that front bumper too!
Just curious, why are those valuable? Are doors hard to find?
Having paid attention to doors I've seen so many pre-2000 in the scrap yards in great shape, no rust-wise. My own 2003 is so badly rust riddled its a pure abomination, can't believe Ford made something this cheap. It does appear there are a few years where rust is more prevalent, 2003 to 2005 being the most problematic from what I've seen. That's NOT a scientific fact BTW, just my casual observation.
I wouldn't say doors are hard to find, doors without rust already formed or beginning that would be difficult to eliminate.
Looking inside a door shell despite how perfect it appears outside can reveal a lot---rust can/does form inside and only shows up after its pretty much too late.
On the open market at what we'd call the retail level scrap yards will get up to $300 each for fronts, $250 for hinged side and/or rear doors.
As already mentioned if there are factory or nice aftermarket interior trim panels so much the better.
The original hood is aluminum, aftermarket replacements are usually fiberglass. An original hood from Ford would probably be $450+. IMO, the newer style (no emblem) hood looks nicer with the newer grille. The headlights would also bolt right onto yours but you have to take the whole retainer/adjuster assembly along with the wire adapter plugs. That side door retainer is nice too! Do the insides of rear cargo doors have trim panels on them? Someone with a cargo van would like to have that front bumper too!
Having paid attention to doors I've seen so many pre-2000 in the scrap yards in great shape, no rust-wise. My own 2003 is so badly rust riddled its a pure abomination, can't believe Ford made something this cheap. It does appear there are a few years where rust is more prevalent, 2003 to 2005 being the most problematic from what I've seen. That's NOT a scientific fact BTW, just my casual observation.
I wouldn't say doors are hard to find, doors without rust already formed or beginning that would be difficult to eliminate.
Looking inside a door shell despite how perfect it appears outside can reveal a lot---rust can/does form inside and only shows up after its pretty much too late.
On the open market at what we'd call the retail level scrap yards will get up to $300 each for fronts, $250 for hinged side and/or rear doors.
As already mentioned if there are factory or nice aftermarket interior trim panels so much the better.
I'd snag 'em but out here rust really isn't an issue.
It just hit me! The #1 part that I would be after is the 6.0 transmission cooler with the brackets, 1/2" lines, etc. It has about 2 1/2 X the cooling capacity over your stock cooler. It will drop your trans. temps by about 30* empty and about 50* loaded heavy or towing. Your 4R100 will last a-lot longer with that!
Does anybody know if the ambulance alternator from a mod ambulance (box type) can work with the 7.3?
My guess is no. That's going to be a tough question, especially since the ambulance is a 6.0. I would start by cross referencing part #'s since you already have access to it. Some 7.3 ambulances have dual alts if you can believe there's room for another 10 lbs of metal under there! Here's the deal with the 7.3 alternator, it is internally regulated, meaning not through the vehicle computer. I'm sure the mounting brackets are all different, but I guess it is possible for them to be the same since it's not actually an engine part.
04-25-2016, 02:23 PM
but out here rust really isn't an issue. 
